Blown head gasket

[Drafteddesign]

For the last few days, my truck has given me some problems. blown turn signal here, bad battery cable there, whatever. As I was repairing the battery terminal, I noticed my engine had a gurgling sound coming from the top rad hose. Why is there air in my coolant system? So, I investigate... check my dipstick... that doesn't look right... the fully synthietic oil has streaks in it... check the filler cap... There it was. The dreaded milkshake of doom. Pretty sure the head gasket is blown, as the guy who had it before me put that copper "fix a leak" junk in it when he had it. I flushed my coolant system when I replaced my water pump, and got most of that copper flake out. Now, theres water in my oil. Hmmm... Didn't see this coming.

Advance Auto has the gasket kit for under a 100, and new head bolts are 40. How far do I need to take this resto? I don't have a garage, nor do I have access to a cherry picker, so I don't want to pull this motor if I don't have to. The motor still runs, but I am scared that the main bearings are going to seize up on me with that water in there. Can I just get the slop outta there, clean and degrease it all, then rebuild? Or should I send the head out for machine work? I only paid 500 for the truck, and now I am looking at doubling that price on engine repairs if I have to machine work the whole thing.

[seang]

Everything will have to be, at least, checked for damage.

[longtooth]

I can understand the I spent 500 for the truck why spend more. but its better to have spent the 500 for the truck instead of 2500 for the truck.

On the 4 cyl that Ihave done the headgaskets it has just been the head gasket. But I also checked the block and the cyl head while it was off.

[Drafteddesign]

at longtooth: did you check it for obvious signs, like cranks and nicks, or did you send the head to the shop?

And i absolutely agree about the price thing. I know I have to put money into a vehicle, so atleast I'm not in debt on the truck, AND paying for parts to keep it up.

[longtooth]

Checked the block to make sure it was level and no visable damage. Checked they cylinder head for the same. Also with the head off and upside down fill the cavitys of the combustion part with a liquid to check for leaks(if hold the liquid no leaks).

I also didnt send the head to the machine shop.

Now on my 510 with the 4cyl I thought I had a head gasket and cylinder head problems and went through lots of money. Kept seeing coolant comming form the front of the engine to the timming chain cover. Pulled the front off and found the cover had a pin hole behind the water pump leaking into the crank case.

[Drafteddesign]

Now on my 510 with the 4cyl I thought I had a head gasket and cylinder head problems and went through lots of money. Kept seeing coolant comming form the front of the engine to the timming chain cover. Pulled the front off and found the cover had a pin hole behind the water pump leaking into the crank case.

How on earth did you discover a PINHOLE back there? Mighty fine eyes, Harvey Birdman!!

I just hope this is my problem. After ordering the gasket kit, the new head bolts, a 8oz. bottle of anti seize, a tube of black sealant, and the haynes manual, I have dropped right under 200. If the timing chain looks or feels bad, I'll change it too. I really don't plan on going that far into the motor, but we'll see. I still need to drop the oil pan to flush that sludge out of there, too. I wonder if we have enough room to drop that with the crossmember in place? (I'm thinking not)

[longtooth]

Pressure tested the cooling system and heard the leak. Saw the leak with the flash light and thought it was the head gasket. After the 5th time pulled the front cover and looked and didnt see a hole. Just touched it with a small screwdriver and it just caved in.

[noface]

have the head pressure checked for cracked... simply seeing if the combustion chamber will hold oil will not work. Not even close.

Also have the deck surface machined flat.

This should cost you about $150 tops if the head is not cracked, and DOESN'T need any valve work.

[Drafteddesign]

I really need to get this back on the road, since its my dd. I am going to build another motor on MY time, and then do the swap. I will check the head with a straight edge and feeler gauge this weekend when I get a chance to work on it, and f its not tweaked hard, I'm going to run with it. I know its not the proper way, but right now, I have to do what I can to get it going. As long as I can limp 10 miles at a time, I'll be ok.

[longtooth]

have the head pressure checked for cracked... simply seeing if the combustion chamber will hold oil will not work. Not even close.

Also have the deck surface machined flat.

This should cost you about $150 tops if the head is not cracked, and DOESN'T need any valve work.

Totally agree. When I did it it was to check for bent valves. I will admit I was lucky that the head wasnt cracked but I also didnt have any reasons to be worried about a cracked head or bent valves.

[Q451990]

I assume you have done this already, since you have to take the timing chain off to get the head off, but I would certainly check the timing chain area as well. I have heard of multiple instances where the guides fail and allow the chain to rub a hole through the aluminum and let coolant and oil to mix.

Heath

[Drafteddesign]

according to the haynes manual, I can slide a block of wood down inside the front cover of the motor, to support the chain with tension, as to prevent me from resetting the timing. With this method, I will not be opening up that part of the engine. IF there is a failed guide, and hole in the water jacket, then the block is toast. Not a good thing. Tomorrow is my first opportunity to actually get inside the motor since the calamity, so I don't really know what I am in for yet. Cross your fingers.

[Q451990]

I'm pretty certain that it's not a block problem... something that can be replaced from what I understand - although now that you mention it I'm not sure how.

You might also download the factory service manual for a '96 at www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

The electronics will all be different, but the mechanicals should be the same...

[Drafteddesign]

The head is off and I didn't see an obvious blow thru on the gasket. Several burnt places on cyl. 4 but nothing that indicates a bad gasket. A block or head shouldn't just crack unless theres a shock to it like REAL HOT or REAL COLD,right? I'm hoping that I just missed the damage, but I won't know till this weekend when it all goes back together.

[longtooth]

Anyway you could at least get the cylinder head magna flexed?

[Drafteddesign]

I found a machine shop that will do the inspection for $26.25. For them to level the head is $21. A 3 angle vlave job is $39.79. Those prices are per head, so even a v6 wouldn't break the bank. Its about 1 week for the turn around time on it. I guess I can do this work on it, and then put it all back together. If its still bad, then I'll know its the block. If I put it back together with a redone head, fire it up for a few seconds to see if the new oil and water mix, and decide its the block thats bad- will I have to buy a new gasket set, or can I reuse the head gasket since it won't even get hot? Also, will I have to pull the valves,cam,etc or can I leave them?

[longtooth]

The headgasket is a one time use crush gasket.

[Drafteddesign]

I just dropped the head off to be pressure checked and leveled. It will be early next week before I know anything. Cross your fingers for me. If the weather warms up,i will show som"rattle-can-love"to the engine bay with hi temp gloss black

[C-Kwik]

I assume you have done this already, since you have to take the timing chain off to get the head off, but I would certainly check the timing chain area as well. I have heard of multiple instances where the guides fail and allow the chain to rub a hole through the aluminum and let coolant and oil to mix.

Heath

+1

I was swapping out the chain and guides on a friend's 240 some 10 years ago and found the chain had breached the cover. The part is expensive new, so I looked around at junkyards. Had a hell of a time trying to find one that didn't have the same problem already.

[Drafteddesign]

You are the second person today to mention this problem. Maybe this is an omen. LOL I had no intention on messing with the timing,but since I'm in this far, I might as well toss in the extra $100 and the few extra moments to insure this too. Again, this is a part I can reuse on the new block if this one turns out to be bad. I don't know how much farther I can take this before it becomes a complete rebuild. This is how lifelong projects are born,isn't it?

[Drafteddesign]

I stripped everything down to the block today.( My pc has a virus, so these updates are from my phone and therefore, no pics.). I need to borrow a puller from the parts house for the balancer. While I'm down to this bare state, I'm going to degrease and paint everything I can. Do I need a primer for the hi temp paint? If I had a engine stand and picker, the whole damn thing would come out for a hot degreasing coat. Should be a few days til all the parts are under one roof.

[Drafteddesign]

Talked to the machine shop today. The head is true & level and it pressure checked ok. My work schedule won't allow time to pick it up til Sat. Woohoo! Shootin' for it to be together by the weekend of the 11th &12th.(weather permitting. So far, no spray bomb for the engine room,either)

[Drafteddesign]

I know it has been a long time since there was an update on my truck, but not has changed. This winter has been really nasty, so its limited the time to work on my truck. I have recruited my friend/neighbor to help me put my motor back in time and together. Hopefully it will be fixed soon. I am siming for next weekend,if our schedls and weather permit. hopefully I will be wreaking havoc soon in it!

[Drafteddesign]

In case anyone has been on the edge of their seat with anticipation, my truck is back and running stronger than ever. I got a neighbor involved, andhe really helped me out. Now I can get back to the job I started- building the perfect hardbody.