blowing fuses trying to get top to work...

[cacaface]

Hey guys, need a little help here with wiring possibly...

So I have a sr20det redtop in my vert, swapped to manual, had a shop do it for me.

I used hijackers threadhttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...age=1about swapping to manual from auto and to get the top to work. It worked one time, and then it stopped and i couldn't figure out why.Then I noticed i had a blown fuse, the fuse on the kick panel drivers side, bottom right, 10. It's for the inhibitor switch....So i replaced that and it blew again. So i tried un-doing the wires that I put together to get the top to work, and that was the problem. So i decided to just give power to my wire (a brown/yellow) and the top worked... but it melted my wires.

My question would be has anyone had this problem, or does anyone know a good reason why my fuse would be blowing? I traced my wire kinda far into my engine bay, and it wasn't grounded or touching any wires, but I only looked so far.

Sorry for bringing up a new topic, but I've been trying to get this work for a few years and the other thread got off topic a little and is old.

Thanks in advance~ chris

[holemilk00]

When you say melted a wire, which direction was it running? into the engine bay or the yellow wire running towards the trunk?

[cacaface]

umm, let me upload some pics, but the wires seem to melt from the front of car to the back of the inhibitor switch... there was one wire past the inhibitor, but i think it originates from the front of the car.

The wires that were fried the most were on the park/neutral safety switch. The brown/yellow and brown. The brown was also the wire fried on the top of the inhibitor switch.

This single wire (brown/yellow) is coming from the front of my car and heading into the back of the inhibitor switch... it splices into two actually and this brown yellow goes to inhibitor switch and the Park Neutral Safety switch.

Back of inhibitor switch

Park Neutral switch is the green box <- ** THIS IS NOT RIGHT **This seems to be where my problem is, I thought this was the park nuetral switch...one wire is brown, the other is brown/yellow.

The brown/yellow is the one I jumper to get the top to work, so I'm guessing there is something wrong with that wire... it is also cut off from the back of the inhibitor. Thanks


Modified by cacaface at 12:26 PM 8/3/2009

[holemilk00]

Are you sure you are the first to try to do the wiring on the car? It sounds like something is crossed up that you don't know about, possibly further down in the harness, to fry wires you'd have to be putting the full 12v's through a small wire with no fuse to blow and no relay involved, and it would have to be grounding out. Wires don't just melt without 12v power source AND ground, unless you're melting them while you have a battery booster hooked up and on boost, and even then you would blow fuses or relays. My advice would be to not worry about the side that is protected (ie fused) and work on the side towards the switch, it sounds like maybe something is grounding out in that series.

[cacaface]

hmm, well I'll try to look more into it, but the fuse blows whenever I hook up my constant to it. The wires fried when i tried to just hook up to the battery just to see if it would work try to see if it was just the brown/yellow wire, and I'm pretty sure that it has to be. I had a mechanic do the manual swap for me from auto and install my sr20. I really wish i did it, especially now... , but my dad had just broken his knee and he usually helps me with all my car needs : ).So as far as i know, the mechanic didn't try to jumper my top into working, and I'm almost positive he didn't, BUT you do have to jumper the park neutral switch... and it uses the same wire basically. Well thanks for the help, I will try to look some more on my own, hopefully won't mess anything else up, and get back to you. Thanks againand if you can think of anything else, I'll keep checking, thanks

[cacaface]

Hey holemilk, do you happen to know where the brown/yellow wire runs into off the back off the inhibitor? If you do, I could probably just start from there and jumper from that side and ignore the rest where it's prob grounded somewhere.

[Rei_k's]

I have the same problem. My top worked once after spliced the wires, but now it just blows the fuse over, and over. Ever solve your problem?

[Hijacker]

I see a ton of mis-wired wires in the OP's pictures. For one, that green plug isn't used. At all. I never mentioned it in my write up, nor did I circle it in my pictures. The park neutral switch in the picture where you can see the green plug is under the fuse box base. I was showing the splice I made to the plug. The park neutral switch carries a lot of current, that's why the wires are so thick on it. Now, the brown/yellow on the back of the inhibitor plug needs to be spliced into the Green/blue like have I show and have listed on my wiring diagram. After that, you need to extend the wires for the green/blue and the green/white to the reverse switch on the side of the trans.

I updated my thread to reflect you shouldn't have the green plug in the loop at all.

[cacaface]

thanks for replying, I haven't solved the problem yet, but I have about two weeks off and I will look at it again, I don't quite understand where the park nuetral switch is then... but I will figure it out when I have a little time, Thanks, I will post if i fix the problem.

** Hijacker, the park/nuetral switch is only to get the car to start correct?I had the swap done a while ago and he must've already taken care of the park/nuetral jumper. If that's the case, I've tried to hook up the brown/yellow from back of inhibitor to the blue green from inhibitor... is that correct? **
Modified by cacaface at 12:33 PM 8/3/2009

[cacaface]

well I just hooked it up the right way (again) and it worked, let's see if it blows fuses again... Thank you very much hi jacker. I had everything hooked up the right way before, but it wasnt working, and I guess I looked at the brown yellow on that green switch (which is still the right plug) and used that... I dont know what the deal is, b/c the brown yellow runs to that green thing and to the back of inhibitor and thats the wire I'm using atm. I will let you know if anything changes Rei_k ... but I couldn't tell you why it is working right now. what size fuse are you using maybe? "bottom right, 10. It's for the inhibitor switch" same fuse ya?

[Rei_k's]

well I just hooked it up the right way (again) and it worked, let's see if it blows fuses again... Thank you very much hi jacker. I had everything hooked up the right way before, but it wasnt working, and I guess I looked at the brown yellow on that green switch (which is still the right plug) and used that... I dont know what the deal is, b/c the brown yellow runs to that green thing and to the back of inhibitor and thats the wire I'm using atm. I will let you know if anything changes Rei_k ... but I couldn't tell you why it is working right now. what size fuse are you using maybe? "bottom right, 10. It's for the inhibitor switch" same fuse ya?

Glad to hear you got the top working. I just got mine working to.

[cacaface]

ehh I blew a fuse again.. what did you do to not blow fuses Rei_k ?

[Rei_k's]

ehh I blew a fuse again.. what did you do to not blow fuses Rei_k ?

Unplugged the plug. Spliced the brown/yellow to green/blue wires, and left the plug unplugged. Works all day now.

Let me know if you get it working GL!
Modified by Rei_k's at 7:55 PM 8/3/2009

[Hijacker]

There's no need to be replugging the inhibitor plug into anything. You can remove the subharness completely.

As for the green plug, it's a moot piece. Forget it even exists. You're only concerned with the grey plug in the middle of the three attached to the side of the fuse box.

What have you done to remedy the fried wire? If you haven't repaired it, I would do so, or remove it. I can't remember what it goes to, but I don't know if it's too terribly important. Make sure you're not shorting something out on the circuit with those wires (ie bare wires touching the chassis) If your top worked fine before the swap, then your issue lies with any wiring alterations you've made.

[cacaface]

cool, sounds good, but the only thing is I wish I had done the swap myself, cause I don't know if the mechanic hooked something up wrong. Thank you for your time guys, one last question Rei, which plug did you leave unplugged... inhibitor? Thanks againOh and I just rewired the fried wires to the best of my ability.
Modified by cacaface at 9:22 PM 8/3/2009

[Rei_k's]

Yup the inhibitor plug. I dont see a need for it.

[cacaface]

cool, I'll try that, thanks man! : )

[cacaface]

That did the trick. thanks man!