Post by
dwlyahoo »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/dwlyahoo-u258316.html
Mon Nov 23, 2015 6:53 pm
You can change the blower motor amp without removing the gas pedal or brake pedal assemblies--but it is very difficult. I did it the other day on our 2013 Nissan Rogue SV. The diagram of the A/C unit is backwards--they're showing you the back of this unit, and the blower motor and the blower motor amp are on the left, not the right, and the A/C unit sits in the middle of dashboard.
First off, you cannot see the blower motor amp, but it is just behind the in-cabin micro-filter slot, near the top.
The first thing I did was to remove that triangular panel on the left side of the dashboard (driver's side) with a skinny flat tip screwdriver. Then I removed the lower dashboard panel (driver's side) with the same screwdriver. THE FSM shows you how to do this. And while the FSM said I should disconnect the hood lock control mechanism and the combination meter connector, I just flipped it up to the left and wiggled it out of the way, then tied it to the driver's side mirror with a string.
Then I made a platform next to the driver's side of the car, using a utility wagon with the sides down and old couch cushions on top, so I could kneel on it as I leaned deep under the driver's side dashboard. I then removed the in-cabin micro-filter door, then felt behind the filter slot up near the top, and was able to feel the fan control amp, its housing and two screws, and the wire plug in the middle.
You have to contort your left arm over top of the brake pedal and to the right of the gas pedal to reach the fan control amp, which--again--is just behind the in-cabin micro-filter slot near the top. You also need a very small finger screwdriver ratchet, with a #1 Phillips head, about half the size of a normal stubby screwdriver (I got mine at Princess Auto).
The first thing I did was to remove the wire plug connected to the middle of the fan control amp, by pushing in the middle tab of the plug with the fingers of my left hand and pulling it out, then pushing it down and out of the way. Then I removed the bottom screw of the fan control amp housing (again, with the fingers of my left hand) using my super small finger screwdriver ratchet, then I removed the top screw, then I simply slid out the old fan control amp and slid in the new one--then put the two screws back in, then the center plug, then put the two dashboard panels back on.
BUT THIS WAS INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT AND TIME-CONSUMING TO DO AS YOU CAN'T SEE WHAT YOU'RE DOING AND ARE JUST GOING BY TOUCH ALONE. BUT IT CAN BE DONE.
The fan control amp from the dealer was $150, and they wanted $400 to install it, which I saved by doing it myself. Also, do yourself a favor and change the in-cabin micro-filter while you're down there (YouTube has a good vid by Filterheads) as it is probably filthy and clogged, as was ours after only two years of driving. The filter from the dealer was $35 (but you can buy a generic one for about $25), and the dealer actually wanted $60 to install it, which I also saved by doing it myself.
This was a tortuous DIY repair--but do-able. And you can cheat... by not removing the gas pedal or brake pedal assemblies... and by not removing the hood lock control mechanism or combination meter connector... but you do need a super small finger screwdriver ratchet (with a #1 Phillips head)... and some kind of platform that you can kneel on as you can squeeze in and deep under the driver's side dashboard.
But there are no happy endings to my story. The repair worked for half a day, and now the blower only works half the time (on all speeds), so now I plan to replace the blower relay, which I think (and hope) is far easier than replacing the fan control amp.