Blow through stock MAF?

[s14tan]

I was looking around last night and read in a blow through thread that The stock MAF won't last long if you make it a blow through.Well... I however don't understand why.Why does the Z32 MAF stand up to it but the stock MAF cannot?

Does it depend on the set up and the amount of boost you're running?

I'm looking into doing a blow through MAF cause I got a knock off Tial BOV that can't be recirced.

Thanks to whom ever answers my question.

[240RB1]

Did you happen to read this on KA-T? i think its because since a blowthrough setupo removes the case their is more air cooling the element so it takes more voltage to keep it constant and once you reach the limit its hard to keep it there. as for the z maf its much bigger so the element is bigger as well, so it takes more airflow to cool the elemnt so you can use more boost to "max out" that maf. i think thats how it works i might be full of s**t though idk haha

[s14tan]

IIRC, I read this on Nico I can't seem to find the thread ( found it searching Google)

So what you're saying is that If I run lower boost the stock MAF will be ok?

[240RB1]

yes lower boost will be ok on the stock maf from what i have read, i havent done this but someone that has will chime in sooner or later.

[motoman399]

i have seen this done and want to do it on mine. i have a z32 maf though. does anyone know how much i can push through it? i want my bov atmospheric..

[240RB1]

i want to know if there are any advantages to using this method? i guess its time to search

[zapracing]

your best bet is to switch to a map sensor if you want to go with the open setup the only down side is you have to switch to a stand alone ecu i think i havent found a rom tune or piggy back that uses a map sensor but you can do it with the AEM emsi thought about doing that setup at one point but i used a jim wolf tech rom tune you could just hook it up and see if it works i dont know why it wouldnt

and for more information a maf just measures the air temp so turbo heat soak could mess with your results

i just got a knock off greddy bov look on advancedjdmparts thats where i got mine good luck and let me know how it works

[240RB1]

A mass airflow sensor(MAF) does not measure air temp it measures how much air is going to enter the engine, and intake air temperature sensor (IAT) measures the air temperature please get facts straight dont spread wrong information

[zapracing]

doesn't maf measure the amount of air that flows through it by the change in air temp?

[Crazyirish]

doesn't maf measure the amount of air that flows through it by the change in air temp?

http://www.google.com/search?h...+work

Oh, and punctuation makes your posts much easier to read.

[motoman399]

doesn't maf measure the amount of air that flows through it by the change in air temp?

read what you wrote. air flow and air temp are two completely different things. obviously lol

[SullivanRacing06]

ecu sends voltage to the maf, air travels over maf n cools the wire off thus sending a set voltage/ resistance to the ecu to compensate for that said amount of air traveling over the maf

[DevilMB3017]

Any MAF sensor in a blow through will burn it out quicker.

It heats itself to see how much voltage it takes to keep it in a certain temp range. When it is colder because its after the intercooler, it will take more voltage - therefore burning out quicker.

Z32 MAFs have been reported to last longer, but that might have something to do with the bigger element as was said, or the fact they are refurbished a lot before KA-Ter buy them.

[motoman399]

so say the maf burns out. what happens. as far as tuning? does the engine just die or does it run like crap? can you limp it home?

[DevilMB3017]

If it burns out and shows 0V, the car will do one of two things depending on some variables. It will either think there is no MAF and idle like crap and not go above 3K or so, in "safe mode". Or it will think there is no load and run like crap through the RPM band and go rich/lean with no reason.

You could limp it from either situation. Blow-through, IMO, is not ideal for a DD.

[spooled240]

i'm on a blow-through mafs setup and my car has been running perfect with no problems for over a year and a half. When the mafs is unplugged or unmetered air enters the intake, the engine will not want to re so you will be stuck at around 1200 rpms. This happened to me when my intercooler pipe popped off with my suck-through setup, so I just limped her home in 5th at 1200 rpms lol

I have never tested this blow through setup with a stock mafs, or really high boost but I think the stock mafs will hold up fine. I believe the blow through setup is a great system if you want to run an OABOV and it will not leave you stranded if you blow off an intercooler pipe =/

[DevilMB3017]

A broken MAFS and a popped intercooler pipe are NOT anywhere near the same thing.

When an I/C pipe pops, you aren't getting air into the motor. When the MAF pops, it doesn't know how much air is going in.

And for the record, I run an OABOV AND a suck-through MAFS with out any problems. You just need the right amount of space (14-16 inches) before the turbo after the MAFS.

[S13FX]

Hey guys just to give another quick maf solution here since I bring this up every time I see a maf thread.

If you are in a market for a 300zx maf or anything of that sort I will also recommend a Supra maf.

In my mind the supra maf is much superior to the 300zx maf.

One simple reason is its only one directional type unit.

Meaning turbulent air wont disrupt the reading on it, since it only reads air that comes in one way, and second reason you don't have to worry about how far or close it is tot eh turbo.

Price wise their about the same, you can pick up a 2jz maf for about 80 bucks.

[spooled240]

A broken MAFS and a popped intercooler pipe are NOT anywhere near the same thing.

When an I/C pipe pops, you aren't getting air into the motor. When the MAF pops, it doesn't know how much air is going in.

when a ic pipe pops, the mafs doesn't know that their is extra air going into the engine thus the engine does not get enough fuel.

when a mafs goes bad, it will not know how much air the engine is getting like you said..wouldn't this be somewhat related?

And for the record, I run an OABOV AND a suck-through MAFS with out any problems. You just need the right amount of space (14-16 inches) before the turbo after the MAFS.

Placing the mafs 14-16 inches from the turbo in a suck-through setup is to avoid the compressor "swirl" if you will that will sometimes confuse the mafs into thinking that there is more air entering the engine than there really is.

I had the same setup you had with my OABOV and my car stalled every time my bov opened. Think about it, the mafs meters air sucked in from the turbo, adds fuel to the engine, then BAM you slam your throttle shut and all that air rushes out the bov and never enters the engine. So then you engine has a certain amount of fuel for X amount of boost and no boost...a scenario for your engine flooding out and stalling. It would then take me about 6 seconds of cranking before she fired up again =/

What do you have for tuning? I have a JWT ecu btw, which just doesn't work well with the OABOV. I hear a SAFC has a specific setting that will work with OABOV's.

[DevilMB3017]

I use an Enthalpy tuned ECU. He told me I should re-circ it, but it is working fine without. SAFC does have a 'decel' setting I think it's called.

As for the MAF/IC debate...When the IC pipe pops, there is much much LESS volume of air going into the motor. You get lots of extra fuel, hence why a motor runs rich when an IC pipe pops.

If a MAFS goes bad it usually will go into 'safe' mode depending on your ECU tune, and you can limp it around with decent AFRs/EGTs out of boost.

[WDRacing]

There's alot of speculation and misinfo in this thread.

No MAF will be better off in a blowthrough setup then any other. It doesn't matter how much bigger it is either...

The Blowthrough seems to work pretty well if you want to run the BOV open, I have not done so and can not really give an opinion on it. Have others done so, yes and for long periods of time. Yet SOME have done so and had the MAF fail...roll the dice.

The air temp vs volume thing kinda made me wanna throwup in my mouth a little...

In short, the MAF measures air volume by keeping a tiny wire hot. However much voltage it takes to keep that wire hot is the amount of air moving past it cooling it down. This is translated into load when mixed with TPS input...etc...yada.

Keep it simple stupid always comes to mind when dealing with idle and or running issues. Recirc the BOV for the best running KAT. The other options are all taken at certain risks.

There bis no reason to buy a $1300 standalone to run a open BOV...lol. If you do, I'll personally drive there and beat the ghey out of you.

Peace I'm OUT

[spooled240]

As for the MAF/IC debate...When the IC pipe pops, there is much much LESS volume of air going into the motor. You get lots of extra fuel, hence why a motor runs rich when an IC pipe pops.

If a MAFS goes bad it usually will go into 'safe' mode depending on your ECU tune, and you can limp it around with decent AFRs/EGTs out of boost.

whenever i blew a ic pipe off my engine seemed like it leaned out and I couldn't give it any throttle whatsoever or rev past 1500 rpms. This is because the mafs does not detect the extra air entering the engine through the location of the popped ic pipe, it's like the mafs is bypassed completely and the engine is stuck with a fixed amount of fuel consumption regardless of TB position. So there would be MORE air going into the engine that would be sucked through the open ic pipe and not metered through the mafs, and having more air than fuel is the result.

[s14tan]

So can you run a 'suck through' Maf with ROM tune and how a open BOV?or would you still have the stall?

Side note.is JWT the only 'trustable' Rom tuner at the moment?

[Chris28]

I'll have my EFI specialist review with wb02 verification up here shortly. Should be all back together by Christmas so I'll just make a new thread about it then.

[spooled240]

I don't know how you would do that, I tried running a suck through mafs setup with my rom tune and an OABOV and it didn't work well with me. You will most likely have to recirc the bov or use the decel setting on a safc in conjunction with the rom tune.

enthalpy is another big rom tuner and I've heard it's a great tune. I think it's even a bit cheaper too. I drove my buddy's ka-t with the identical setup(ebay t3/t4, same fmic, z32 mafs, 555cc injectors, 10 psi) and it felt pretty strong but he had the stock exhaust so it didn't pull as hard as mine. I think you'll be safe with either tune, it's really up to you. So coming from experience, my jwt tune and my buddy's enthalpy tune on the identical setup both ran great

[DevilMB3017]

I have an Enthalpy tune and couldn't be happier with it or the customer service I've received.

Also, for the record, I run a ROM Tune and OABOV without issue.

[spooled240]

how long was your down time?

[s14tan]

I have an Enthalpy tune and couldn't be happier with it or the customer service I've received.

Also, for the record, I run a ROM Tune and OABOV without issue.

How was your MAF set up? Xmas Icons are back!! WoOT!

[spooled240]

he has a suck through. All this talk of a 'suck through' and 'blow through' mafs setup sounds kinda perverted.. how about a before/after turbo mafs setup? lol

[crzycav86]

Any MAF sensor in a blow through will burn it out quicker.

It heats itself to see how much voltage it takes to keep it in a certain temp range. When it is colder because its after the intercooler, it will take more voltage - therefore burning out quicker.

This is wrong. Not only is this mere speculation, but using your logic, the maf sensor will have the shortest life as a pull-through(the way OEM intended), because that's where the air is the coolest.