blow through n60 afc neo settings

[frosti108]

ok so i got my car running. ka24e, t3... blowing through an n60 maxima maf, fuel control with afc neo.

im pretty sure its supposed to be on 4 in 5 out, but im not sure what to use either hotwire pressure karman flap.... idk. ive been trying hotwire and pressure and they both seem to sort of work but id like to find out for sure.

thanks

[S13FX]

Its hot wire and try 6 in 6 out..

[WDRacing]

Yep hotwire for sure, try different settings for the MAF selection. Just use the one tht idles clean and makes a good run throughout the rpm band.

[frosti108]

thanks the help is appreciated guys. and ofcourse it would then be single single?

also while i have some attention, what should i do with the decel settings... im running a mad tyte atmospheric BOV on the hotpipe, blow through n60 on the cold pipe

[S13FX]

If your running Blow through, don't even worry about the de cel settings.

[frosti108]

arrg it runs like crap no matter what settings i use. sometimes it will rev good and sometimes it wont, but then if i put it in gear and try to go, it will struggle and with some in out settings it will just break up... idk

[S13FX]

Try seeing how she idles with the Maf unhooked. Who did your SAFC installation?

[neverlift]

Try seeing how she idles with the Maf unhooked. Who did your SAFC installation?

make sure the maf is good first, idle voltage on my z32 maf is about 1volt. t25 though.

as said blow through and ota go hand in hand.... decel should go lean as hell. do you have a wideband, didt see anything about one...

[frosti108]

hmm ok ill unplug the maf tomorrow and see what happens... what should should happen?

i hooked my afc up myself before i went turbo and it works great. although now that i moved my battery to the back, im having a bit of an electrical thing going on... when i take my key out the afc stays on sometimes along with the ebrake light and seatbelt light... but sometimes they go off... idk its weird.

blow through and 'what' go hand in hand?

and yes im waiting on my wideband to get here from megasquirtCA on zilvia... hes doing up a JAW do it yourself reader for me =)

i figure that since the n60 maf and 370cc setup seem to go good together, i would lean my setup out a little bit since i have 440cc... i tried to richen up a little and i got some popping on decel (unburnt fuel in exaust) so i leaned it back down a bit...

also not having any of the idling equiptment on the car makes this all harder.... i have the idle screw turned all the way out and it still doesnt want to idle with most of the afc settings...

im worried that the 4 gauge wire im using for the battery relocation isnt big enough or something. fukkin dude on ka-t.org took my 60 bucks for a relocation kit and a dsm resistor box and i get a crappy plastic box with 4 gauge wire, not even enough to get into the hatch....

arrggg

[frosti108]

i have the 4 gauge positive wire going right to all the things that originally attach right to the battery where it used to sit upfront, and the battery ground has a 4 gauge wire hooked right to the inner sheet metal on the side of the car, along with an 8 gauge wire grounded to the floor and an 8 gauge wire gounded to a bellhousing bolt

[frosti108]

ok today i played with it some more... started it up tried a bunch of numbers on the in and out... finally it warmed up... i tried it on 6 in 6 out and it was idling ok... reved great in neutral but when i went to try 1st gear it wouldnt rev at all. so i tried to the correct 4 in 5 out and it was AMAZING. the idle is real weak but thats my fault. i had the timing retarded as crap just to be safe and i said fuggit the safc causes the car to go retarded automatically right? so i turned the distributor back over to about the middle and i got the idle to stay around 670... but it works.

i tried to hold back since i dont have the wideband yet.... but i had to. i hit 1st 2nd and just got into 3rd. boosted like 6 lbs on the gauge but i think its actually the stock 7.5 that the internal waste gate is set for because i think my boost gauge is a little low by around a 1 lb. (when the cars off it sits toward the bottom of 0 real close to -1...)

but yea. felt AWESOME. renewed my love for my 240 haha this thing is gonna be fast as crap. 7 lbs def wont be enough for me. i think ill put the manual controller on and go for 10 =)

cant wait to get this wideband o2 and get to tuning.

actually i still have to get the car insured and reg'd LOL also need to put the bumper and crap back on and gut it out and all kinds of stuff.

i tihnk the electrical problem is from the battery terminals not having good connections with the wires. ill probly end up putting on smaller terminal clamps on the wires when i get the chance

[WDRacing]

First thing you need to do is set the timing correctly. The SAFC causes the timing to advance not retard. SO you're probably close to popping your motor.

There are a few things you can't half ***, fuel and timing are two of them.

[S13FX]

Yes retard the timing use safc to fix idle a bit, register the damn car, and don't **** around with out a wideband.

Cause yol be making a post Broke my engine here pretty soon.

Other then that congrats on your accomplishment. And hopefully pretty soon youl be ready for some serious fun power ..

Also as for only hitting about 6 something psi, might just be pressure loss.

How big is your IC and piping. I had a 8psi spring in my gate and I usually saw 7.5 which was perfect.

[neverlift]

ota= open to atmosphere and blow thru go together, as long as bov is on hot side and maf is on cold side....

you should have told us you only using the screw for adjustment....

what is your tps voltage at idle? .5 or somehting should be good. that way the ecu is reading the spot it should. after making sure your tps is set, jump on the timing, take a few off for the afc too . if your time is off you motor is gone period

[frosti108]

i guess ill have to borrow my friends timing light... and i guess ill also borrow his volt meter while im at it LOL

what should i set the timing at for sayyy 8 lbs???

i have a knock sensor but no knock light yet. if u can give me a good place to set timing at until i can tune it with a knock lite, id be good to go for a bit

[frosti108]

oh and my piping is mostly 2 1/4 inch except for some thats 2 1/2 on the cold side to the maf. the IC is 6 inches high, 32 long and 3 thick.

the piping is hell ghetto... all from the junkyard from saabs and volvos except the 2.5 inch part i think is from a crappy CAI that my friend gave me to use. there was a lot of cutting and crap. a lot of the peices have bungs and **** on them that i ended up epoxying and jb welding shut.

the bov i have was on like a tiny 2 inch pipe from an rx7 so i cut it off the pipe with my angle grinder and welded it onto a 2.25 inch pipe i bought from pep boys... my 1st weld job LOL it looks realllly crappy and now that i think about it, its probly leaking. i should cut it out and do another one since im a lot better now haha

but yea theres a few tight turns and bends in it that i would do differently in the future

picture time

swapping the auto bushing for pilot bushing, and welding the oil pan... gladman manifold and z31 t3 turbo... blow-thru ftw hockey puck motor mounts... lowers the engine a lot, makes for realllllly easy trans installs. but it puts the bottom of the pan an inch or so below anything else under the car heres my bike... hopefully gonna do some bracket racing with it this weekend at englishtown! heres the cockpit before i put in the boost gauge, e-fan switch and oldskool nissan truck shift knob.... alpine and afc neo f-t-w... heres my 240 before i even thought about boosting it... my old 300zx behind it andddd for the best pic of the bunch in my opinion... the 240 lookin very sexy with no front bumper


Modified by frosti108 at 2:33 AM 10/18/2007

[eazye2000]

the piping is hell ghetto......a lot of the peices have bungs and **** on them that i ended up epoxying and jb welding shut.

I wanna see pictures of said Ghetto Rigging and JB Welding!!!!

[frosti108]

your wish is my command... check again haha

[neverlift]

whats stock 15*? for 8psi take out 4 or so psi(trying to account for afc advances that will be made), really I'd turn it down a bit till you have soem knock light or btm action going on..... wd can chime in hes an afc/btm guy

[frosti108]

ok retarded by 4 sounds reasonable. i bet its already somewhere around that neighborhood as it is. im not sure what stock is but im sure someone will chime in

[neverlift]

may take out an extra * just to be safe that t3 probably moves more then my t25(running 7~8), IIRC 15 is it for sohc(I have a ton of #'s in my head so its hard to recall). hey you say the pucks drop the motor an inch~ish? would a few washers get a half inch or so higher and be safe? I plan to do the puck setup when I get the civic disc conversion/repairs done/legal/boosted, if its harsh I'll put on the 180 mounts my boy traded me, damn busted ones nut is stuck as chuck, I need to lift the car and beat a socket onto the nut... pita so it waits

[frosti108]

yea the pucks drop it a good bit... lets just say that theres hardly any room between the oil pan and the cross member. i wouldnt recommend it because the pan turns into the 1st thing to get smacked on the ground. i supposed you could space it up a bit, but you would need a LOT of spacers to bring it up above the crossmember....

maybe if u got 3 pucks each side? then you could take one of the pucks to a sander and sand it to about half thickness. then stick that one between the 2 regular size ones to effectivly raise the motor?

[neverlift]

sounds like what I was thinking. thanks man

[ppctx]

I like the simplicity (and cheapness) of the pucks, but another alternative to engine height http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=215490 I'd like to know what the long term reliability of them are and I'd have to come up with a better... bolt thru material method. I can see ripping the washer up thru the top or bottom of the material if one is torque more than the other side.

[frosti108]

well i heard the hockey pucks will crack up after a long time but i doubt it will happen anytime soon. and **** they were under 10 dollars total to make so im not worried. i remember as a kid i always had hockey pucks layin outside on the porch... and no matter how many years they sat out there i dont remember them ever going bad lol.

but seriously lets not turn my thread into a hocky puck motor mount discussion.

who can tell me what stock timing is for a stock 89 240sx?

[eazye2000]

Yessssss!!! Now that's what I'm talking about!

Function > Form

...or however it goes. You know, if it works, do it. Rather than make it look good.

I like. Shade-Tree Mechanic Approved!

[frosti108]

thanks

your engine bay is mighty fine and shiny

[S13FX]

SOHC is 15* DOHC is 20*

[frosti108]

SOHC is 15* DOHC is 20*

ok so then i should put it just around 10*?? 5 off should be about perfect right?

[ilovecoupes]

looks like someone need to drive me to dirty jersey. So they can borrow my timing light and volt meter.

i love the ****ty cell phone pictures

Kae-t destoys all