A friend of mine said I'm getting a blow by in my cylinders, where the o-ring or something sealing the pistons are leaking and the oils getting into the ignition chamber onto the sparkplug. Is that why im getting oils on my sparkplugs? and if it is. how hard is it to fix that? replacing the oring and all. do i have to take out the intake manifold and timing chain and such? anyone had experience with this before? help plz
at the same time, i also have an idling problem where it wont idle when it is cold, rpm will drop and stall, but when the engine is warmed up it idles fine. could this be from the "blow by" oils leaking on the sparkplug?. I've installed a new iacv same problem.thanks for your time.
Blow By? Piston Oring + oils on sparkplug problems
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LayNLow240
- Posts: 1017
- Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2005 6:20 pm
- Car: 92 240 coupe
Re: Blow By? Piston Oring + oils on sparkplug problems (seksehowy)
you should do a compression test before coming to any conclusions about anything. this will tell you if your rings are bad, and how bad they are. do a compression test(wide open throttle, with coil plug off and fuel pump fuse out) and if you get low numbers add a small bit(a capfull of oil from an oil bottle) of oil to each cyl and retest it. if it raises the rings are worn and that calls for a rebuild since...:replacing your piston rings is a very intensive job for an amature mechanic. it would be cheaper/easier/less time consuming to replace the engine with another. the process would involve removing the engine, then removing the head, timing chain, crank, rods, pistons, etc. so basically you would be doing a full rebuild as it is not advised to reuse used bearings and such. so it could get costly, and its a very delicate job. if its not your main car have at it if you feel you can do it. if its your only car, buy another engine and swap it on the weekend.im not sure about your idle problem though.seksehowy wrote:A friend of mine said I'm getting a blow by in my cylinders, where the o-ring or something sealing the pistons are leaking and the oils getting into the ignition chamber onto the sparkplug. Is that why im getting oils on my sparkplugs? and if it is. how hard is it to fix that? replacing the oring and all. do i have to take out the intake manifold and timing chain and such? anyone had experience with this before? help plz
at the same time, i also have an idling problem where it wont idle when it is cold, rpm will drop and stall, but when the engine is warmed up it idles fine. could this be from the "blow by" oils leaking on the sparkplug?. I've installed a new iacv same problem.thanks for your time.
Re: (180fan)
Yeah - compression test first. Theres only 2 ways for oil to get into the cylinder... from the head, or the crankcase. Has the car overheated at any point?
Re: (ISUJinX)
not to the extreme. but when the car is within my possession the temp gauge rise all the way up before. but i quickly notice and stop to cool down the car. someone forgot to mix their coolant /w water >.>
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blitz_silvia
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2003 4:00 pm
- Car: 1998 S14 W/ SR20DET
Re: (seksehowy)
I'm rebuilding my SR because I've been running 15lbs for 100K+ miles, it's cost me about $2500. The problem is, once you break into the motor you find other things that need to be replaced as well. I pulled my crank out and discovered that the bearings were scored and the crank was damaged. The rebuild is kinda easy for me, mostly because I'm pretty mechanically inclined. However I DO NOT recommend doing it unless you know what your doing, have the right tools and a work place sufficient enough to keep everything together. A good torque wrench is vital in a rebuild of any kind, along with a service manual to talk you through it and give you all the necessary specs. If you don't have it, you can find the nissan manual online at sites like carfiche.com.Ends up my transmission needed to be overhauled due to a few screws coming loose and getting tore up within the gears. Kinda goes back to the whole one thing leads to another...Good luck either way
well I'd still suggest having a good discussion with a reputable machinist if you're gonna go ahead with a rebuild. Things like a 3 angle valve job just ain't gonna get done right in your garage bottom line. If you're gonna rebuild, you'll still want the little stuff done like micropolishing the crank and getting it balanced, and even for a diy'er coughing up the hefty change for the tools you'd be using not that often for your rebuild might not make sense, especially if this is your first build. You may pay a little more, but you'll pay alot more if you don't do it right or miss a detail.