This seems like such a simple procedure, but its causing me some serious grief! Is there a secret to successfully bleeding the 240sx hydraulic clutch?
I've been following the FSM procedure multiple times now and I cannot seem to get it right - the clutch won't disengage! I had a friend pump the clutch pedal 4-5 times, hold it to the floor, then open the bleeder screws on the damper, then repeat again multiple times. Then did the same thing bleeding it at the slave. The slave cylinder is pushing the clutch lever. But when I start the motor, its clearly still in gear. I repeated this about 3 or 4 times. No luck.
Then I tried a vacuum pump attached to the bleeder screws, followed the same drill, and got the same result. Then I bypassed the damper, connecting the master directly to the slave, bled it at the slave and still I can't get it to disengage.
The slave is brand new. I haven't replaced the master. Is there a way to tell if the master is bad? Car has about 106k on it.
Am I doing something wrong? Should I replace the master? (BTW, I bought the car in a non-running condition, so I don't know for certain that the clutch hydraulics were/weren't worn to begin with). Thanks...
Bleeding the 240sx Clutch?
-
QuinGarcia
- Posts: 119
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2002 11:43 am
I just bled my clutch yesterday on my 90 240sx. I am not saying that my way is the best, but I know it worked cuz my car runs great. I attach a clear hose to the slave bleeder screw with the other end in a bucket. I loosen the bleeder screw a bit, have someone push the pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there. I close the screw and have the helper pull the pedal all the way back up. Then I repeat until no bubbles (just clear fluid)is running out of the bleeder screw into the tube when the helper is pushing the pedal down to the floor. Be sure to top up your clutch master while you are doing this as you dont want it to run out of fluid and start sucking air bubbles into the lines. When your done, just make sure the fluid is at the right level.
Use dot 3 brake fluid. There is a large metal tube that the fluid runs through attached to the rt. inner frame rail. This large tube gets air trapped in the top and the fluid can't bleed the air out. You can take the bracket loose and pull the back of the tube assembly down as low as possible and bleed the clutch or just bypass the tube assembly all together and take it out. Hook the small line into the rubber hose to the slave and bleed.
drjohn wrote:Use dot 3 brake fluid. There is a large metal tube that the fluid runs through attached to the rt. inner frame rail. This large tube gets air trapped in the top and the fluid can't bleed the air out. You can take the bracket loose and pull the back of the tube assembly down as low as possible and bleed the clutch or just bypass the tube assembly all together and take it out. Hook the small line into the rubber hose to the slave and bleed.
Thanks. I've done this already, and still have same problem. Can air remain trapped in the supply line from the master?
Is it possible to misassemble the clutch, release bearing, and/or lever arm? In looking at the parts, seems like they only fit together one way really.
It is possible to install the release bearing backwards. The outer rotating bearing goes out and the center portion presses onto the release bearing collar. If you don't have any freeplay at the pedal the clutch won't bleed properly. Make sure when the pedal is up the pin in the pedal that pushes the master cyl. rod in is free. If not loosen the 12mm nut on the rod and turn it in or out to get the pin to spin free.