Bleeding Question

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
User avatar
Repo Man
Administrator
Posts: 14403
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 6:52 am
Car: '15 RAM 1500, 4x4
Location: Indy
Contact:

Bleeding Question

Postby Repo Man » Thu Jul 25, 2002 6:22 am

Last night I completely redid my rear brakes. New calipers, pads, rotors. All installed and bolted up tight. My dad and I went to bleed the system and got all of the air out of the rear lines and there is still air in the system, meaning I have no brakes.

Do I have to bleed the front lines as well to complete the process? I am assuming so, since bleeding the rear didn't work at all.

Unfortunately, the lines sat disconnected for several days while I waited to get the correct calipers from the parts store. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Any help is mucho appreciated. I hate not having my car.

Andy


Frappe
Posts: 16
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 7:52 pm
Car: Graphic Art, Theate, Driving
Contact:

Postby Frappe » Thu Jul 25, 2002 6:22 am

Usually you have to bleed both front and back, yes. If you want, I can post a basic guide on bleeding the brakes.

-Frappe

User avatar
Repo Man
Administrator
Posts: 14403
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 6:52 am
Car: '15 RAM 1500, 4x4
Location: Indy
Contact:

Postby Repo Man » Thu Jul 25, 2002 6:22 am

Thanks for confirming that, Frappe. If you don't mind posting that, I'd appreciate it. I think we've got the process correct, I just wasn't sure how the brake lines are set up on 240's. The older cars I'm more used to working on could generally be bled from either the front or the rear.

I'll use your guide to compare processes.

User avatar
AunVoh
Posts: 560
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 7:47 am
Contact:

Postby AunVoh » Thu Jul 25, 2002 6:22 am

make sure when you bleed your front brakes that you do it right, you could always get one of these http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/brakes.html and make the job go much faster, just something to think about.

Frappe
Posts: 16
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 7:52 pm
Car: Graphic Art, Theate, Driving
Contact:

Bleeding Brakes (from Zilvia.net's FAQ, I think)

Postby Frappe » Thu Jul 25, 2002 6:22 am

1) break lose lugs2) jack up car (whole front if possible or do it one side at a time)3) remove wheel4) take a 12 mm wrench to the bolts on the back side of the caliper (NOT 17 mm) and losen5) pull top of caliper up and off (it may be a little stuck depending)6) pull old pads out of caliper top and hang top on the spring (you don't want to let it dangle by the brake lines)7) take a 17 mm socket and losen the two bolts on the caliper assemply that is still on the disc and remove it and set it aside8) take a small screw (find one that fits) and turn it into the holes on the brake rotor (inside where the studs are) - tighten it until the rotor comes lose (it will likely be rusted to the hub)9) take rotors to local shop to be turned or trash them and clean them AND the caliper area before re-fitting10) put rotors back over studs and in place (they just sorta rest there for now)11) reattach caliper assembly w/ 17mm bolts - DON'T GROVE YOUR NEW ROTOR!12) open brake fluid resevoir13) take a 4" "C" clamp or specialty tool and compress the pistdon in the caliper that is hanging on the spring EVENLY!!!!14) put new pads into little spring clip assembly dealies w/ the squeeler shims and all that15) slide caliper assembly back over new pads/rotor (if it's too tight, compress piston more)16) line up and reattach caliper w/ 12mm bolts17) DOUBLE CHECK - IS IT ALL TIGHT? If you need to, bleed the brakes now or just put the cap back on the resevoir18) put wheel back on - remember 80 lbs/ft!!DONE - now go clean your nasty a$$ hands

Tada, there's a direct quote from one of the FAQs on the Zilvia boards. I think that's where I got this anyway...enjoy.

-Frappe (who is sick and tired of driving his mom's car, here, and in reality.)

User avatar
Repo Man
Administrator
Posts: 14403
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 6:52 am
Car: '15 RAM 1500, 4x4
Location: Indy
Contact:

Postby Repo Man » Thu Jul 25, 2002 6:22 am

Thanks Frappe. I feel for you driving mom's car. I'm driving my wife's F-150 right now, which is almost as bad. It's like driving a house.

I tried bleeding the brakes again last night. I've gone in the correct order per Chilton's manual. Still no luck. I have no brakes, therefore no car. I'm sick of messing with it and will likely just take it to a shop and have them do it.

I know, nobody likes a quitter. :eatme

juazam_186
Posts: 69
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 12:57 pm
Car: Cars & Computers

Postby juazam_186 » Thu Jul 25, 2002 6:22 am

Repo-man,I had a similar problem, but it was with the clutch.The fix to my problem was to take it to a shop where they Pressure Bled the lines. In other words, they'll hook-up a machine to keep feeding hydraulic fluid through the lines until all the air is out of the system.I was charged $50 for the job, but it was well worth it because I got my car back.Firestone couldn't help me, I had to take my car to an Import shop.Hope this helps.:arcadefre :Werd

User avatar
Repo Man
Administrator
Posts: 14403
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 6:52 am
Car: '15 RAM 1500, 4x4
Location: Indy
Contact:

Postby Repo Man » Thu Jul 25, 2002 6:22 am

Well, I hope Firestone here can help me. I dropped it off this morning and they'll get to it tomorrow. It pisses me off to have to pay someone at a shop to do something as simple as bleeding the brake lines, but oh well. I'm sick of messing with it.

I just hope they don't make my car flip or something...


Return to “240SX Technical Forum”