Bleeding Out My Clutch... Need Help

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kingdutka
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Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 8:18 am

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I've never done a clutch before, but I've done plenty of brake jobs. I assumed it would work the same with pumping/holding the pedal while someone opens then quickly closes the bleeder screw. Aftyer doing this for about 15 minutes, the clutch only feels about half-pressure and does not spring out on its own.

When I tried to start the car after doing this, I heard some slight squeeling. If I push the clutch pedal with the engine running, it begins squeeling and the RPMs drop WAY down. The car currently idles too high and if it were idling normal, it would've killed the engine.

It just seems like the clutch is stuck in, but like I said, this is the first time I've done this before and I have NO instructions or help from anyone at all.

Did I do something wrong? How can I test/fix this?


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sbird1
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Car: 2006 BMW 325i
Location: Savannah, GA

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That sounds very peculiar. Is the clutch slipping? Are there leaks anywhere in the system? Did you make sure to add fluid to the reservoir as you bled to ensure there was no air in it?

kingdutka
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So is that to say that it seems like I did it right? I bleed it out in the same manner that you do the brakes?

I did make sure the slave cylinder had fluid and when it got low during the process, I filled it back up. I am not seeing any leaks anywhere and the whole system is pretty much brand new...

kingdutka
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Oh, I should mention that I can't tell if the clutch is slipping. When I push it in all the way, I still can't get it into gear to try it out.

I was considering putting it into gear, then starting the engine, but I was afraid of ruining the clutch or worse because it spikes to almost 7000 rpms when I initially start it up, then immediately drops to 2500 rpms. I wasn't sure if this was due to improper vaccuum line connections, the engine having not been started since (I have no idea, it was an imported engine), or maybe something else was wrong that I don't know about... I am TOTALLY afraid of wrecking an important part because I have almost NO money left at all....

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sbird1
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Car: 2006 BMW 325i
Location: Savannah, GA

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Yes you bled it right. When you swapped the motor in a year ago, how much maintainence did you do? Did you pull off the transmission to look at the cluch/flywheel/pressure plate as well as rear main seal? And to me, it sounds like there is definately something else wrong aside from whatever is going on with the clutch. Check your idle air control valve and check for loose grounds and vaccuum leaks. Good luck, I think you have a mystery.

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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Did you replace the clutch or did you just decide to bleed the system? Sounds like the squealing and refusal to go into gear is the throwout bearing. Did you replace the Master and slave cylinders? I mean are the old ones still on. Might be bad. I dunno, that rpm's jumping is weird too. weird problem. Try what Sbird said, then let us know.

kingdutka
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Well, it's good to know I am bleeding it out correctly. As far as the engine goes... uh... I am a complete moron... In my defense, I had a VERY stressful weekend :P Anyway, I completely forgot to hook up one of the lower intercooler pipes, so that would explain the idle, black smoke, etc.

I'll be going out to test that part after I get something to eat.

As far as the clutch.... I don't know....

kingdutka
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Oh ya, so you all know, this is not the engine I replaced a year ago. A couple weeks ago, we had a tornado and, long story short, I flooded and water-locked the engine. The one that is in there now was just installed last week by myself. It came with the transmission and everything and I did inspect it all and it looked good. The master and slave cylinders are both brand new as this was an auto to manual conversion.

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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mmm....IC piping not hooked up will definitely mess things up lol. Not sure what's wrong with the clutch. Did you remove (well i guess since it's an auto to manual conv. not install) the clutch dampener box? that thing sucks and makes it a PITA to bleed the clutch system.

kingdutka
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Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 8:18 am

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Ok let me just say this now, I am not a mechanic and my skills are limited to say the least. But hey, at least I can say I have installed a new engine on my own! :D

The point is, I don't know what a clutch dampening box is, what it looks like, or where to find it. Could you maybe help me out a little? Also, what would I do with it once I find it that would make things easier on me?

Thanks for all the help so far!

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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Here you go manhttp://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=251959this should help you out. I was just giving you a hard time. Everyone messes up from time-to-time and forgets a simple thing.

kingdutka
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Ok, so based on that guide, 15 minutes of bleeding out wasn't long enough, and I quote: "You will find bleeding this system takes only a few minutes, instead of all day like the stock system."

So... if I were to leave in the stock system, I should try bleeding it out "all day" instead of just 15 minutes? (Maybe not literally, but maybe 15 minutes wasn't enough?)

I am not sure if I am ready to try that guide. It looks easy enough to follow, but it does say that if I do it wrong, I could screw up my whole system.... Not a risk I feel comfortable with...

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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Yeah, when you bend the hardline, there is always a chance it could kink, or worse, break. I have seen SS lines sold that bypass the dampener and are longer so you don't have to bend the hardline (I can't remember where). Most SS clutch lines sold for our cars require you to bend the hardline though. I've never bleed the stock system, but I think the factory charges like two hours for bleeding. I dunno.

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sbird1
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I have to disagree here. I bled my SR clutch a few months ago. I just lost fluid and got air in the line. Within 4 pumps of the pedal I had a solid feel. Maybe I just got lucky or something...

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homeslicej2
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You still have the stock dampener box installed and hooked up and it only took you 4 pumps? I've never heard anyone say it was that easy. I never had to bleed my clutch system when the dampener was on (it was removed during the SR swap and I never had to change the clutch on the KA) so I don't have 1st hand experience with it. Without the box it's quick and easy and only 1 bleeder. With the box still on it's 1 bleeder on the slave and 1 the box IIRC.

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sbird1
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This is the first time I've ever heard about this box. I just messed with the one bleeder on the slave cylinder and got a good feel in no time.

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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http://www.courtesyparts.com/b....html

I didn't realize that there were two kinds either, one for the SOHC, and one for the DOHC (this on is the real paint to bleed)

kingdutka
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So, maybe I should post a poll to get everyone's opinions down? Should I bypass the block or no?

kingdutka
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Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 8:18 am

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I spent a little time out there today and made sure all the lines were tight. I managed to get it seemingly good enough to test out! The pedal actual comes out on its own, though not completely all the way and not with as much bounce as I'd like.

Should I be doing this with the car running?

Another question, I don't see a spot to check the transmission fluid... what's the best way to check that and where is the best spot to fill it?

kingdutka
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Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 8:18 am

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Is there more than one spot to bleed out the clutch? I was reading about Altimas having 2 spots that need to bleed out to get it working, something about a HICAS? I don't know what that is, but I am still kinda a noob, so if anyone could tell me if I need to bleed this out in more than one spot and if I should do it with the engine running or not....

kingdutka
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Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 8:18 am

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I managed to get it into reverse, back it out, put in 1st, and drive it back into the garage. It did not want to go though. Immediately after trying this, I checked it and my clutch pedal was almost completely non-reactive at all. It seems like I lost every drop of my clutch fluid.

I bleed it out again and it gets fairly tight. I try to start it, engine is good, but it won't go into gear anymore. Every time I start the engine and try it, I lose all my clutch pressure. I can bleed it out with the car off, but every time I try it, the pressure goes bye-bye. I can't get the car to move any more and I am worried I may be wrecking something...

brent-09
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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 2:35 pm
Car: 1991 nissan 240sx coupe

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i was just reading your post from back in july of 08 and i'm having the same problem my self right now. i was wondering did u ever find out any thing? if so any information u have would be a great help...thanx

kingdutka
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Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 8:18 am

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Actually, as it turned out, my slave cylinder had been "damaged" during shipping. The transmission was sitting ON the slave cylinder during the whole ride from California to Minnesota....

Anyway, I tapped on the plunger a little with a rubber mallet and got it to align properly and now it is actually moving the way it is supposed to. So, the problem the whole time was with the plunger in my slave cylinder being jammed sideways.

I still haven't bleed out the clutch though because I pulled my engine out again so I could replace the clutch, throwout bearing, and clutch release bearing.

Also, it's been NASTY cold out here and my garage doesn't have heat! I plan to have the car fixed and driving on the road by the end of March.

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positron1
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Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
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Good find!


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