Black top sr20det idleing question

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
User avatar
S14Chask
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan s14

Post

Hi i just recently did the swap on my 95 240 and i put a s13 blacktop into her.. everything went smooth just it has a super rough idle..

on a cold start it idles at nearly dead rpms 500rpm or below.. but when it warms up it idles high.. like 2000rpm - 2500rpm then it will drop down to about 1000 then rise back up...

it did burn alot of gas up thus leading me to my tps... well the tps i had on block was from a 5 speed but the harness plug was from an auto... soo i had to wire in a new plug...

wich i belive i did right...

anyways we hooked up a volt meter and it read 0.045v wich i belive is wrong? it should be half a volt right? not 0.045 it should be 0.45 or 0.5

i checked vacume no leaks or anything

before when i moved the maf wires the rpms rose and droped wich i found werid as hell... soo i re wired them..

honestly i am superrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr ****ing confused... i could use a ton of help becuase i am on 3 hours of eye ****ing my computer monator and i still havent really found a good answer to my questions thanks!!!


skaterfromvt
Posts: 192
Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 8:16 am
Car: 1989 240sx sr20 blacktop Built not bought 87 v8 rx7 fc3(50) 95 s14, 00 dodge ram 1500
Contact:

Post

there is a lot of post on how to fix the idle problem but i have had this problem before so lets try to figure this out... of course were going to need more information like always but let me start you off on a couple things you can check

1. check your idle air control valve, you can do a search for this also called the iacv you might need to adjust the little plastic screw on the top of it...and or clean and replace it...(it is located under your injectors)

2. Coolant temp sensor has been known to cause an idle issue also this is located next to your TPS the one on the left you can get this out of a ka24de 30 dollars at the dealership...bring yours in because there is 2 different models of this...

3. check your ecu for codes....

4. if could also be your MAF if you unplug your mas does the idle get better or worse?...have u tried to clean your MAF

your voltage to your tps looks to be about right when....so im thinking

if you have a chip in ur ecu it might have came loose...or your harness could be loose...check for codes on the ecu...if that doesn't help...

replace the 30 dollar coolant temp sensor and try to clean ur IACV (idle air control valve)

User avatar
S14Chask
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan s14

Post

awesome i will do so thanks i never did put my s14 ka temp sensor in that may be the issue.. i have an s13 sr in a 14 chassis.. i hear the temp sensor from the sr i have will not calibrate and read right with my 14 gagues.. ill deff replace that a.s.a.p other then that i will keep you posted on the details..

basicly like i said tho it idles very bad on cold start up.. its just really rough the whole car shakes its at like 700 or less rpms soo i tap the throtle to keep it alive and then when i do that the rpms rise way up then sink back down and it almost dies again..

then when the car warms up it idles high at around 2000 + rpms even when i drive or downshift it will stay at 2000 rpms like it almost doesint sound like im down shifting and sometimes it will die out from that to.

i have new spark plugs in the car almost sounds like its getting spark knock but i am guessing thats from getting to much fuel like it is.. you can deff smell the gas and you can see the carbon comeing out of my exuast when i drive from the unburned gas.. and my tank droped alot from just daily driveing..

also the shop i got the motor from told me to take the oil pan off and wack it with a rubber mallent on the inside in the center to make it bow down alittle bit for better oil pressure??? is that true should i really do that?

User avatar
s14brennen
Posts: 109
Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 3:49 pm
Car: 96 240SX SR20

Post

if the oil pan's dented but ive never heard of hitting when its not... it would hold more oil that way...

User avatar
redsx13
Posts: 748
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:32 am
Car: 93 240sx 03 350z

Post

quick question for you...how many wires are coming out of your tps?

User avatar
S14Chask
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan s14

Post

3 but it is a auto harness there was 6 but i had to splice a new plug on.

User avatar
S14Chask
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan s14

Post

3 but it is a auto harness there was 6 but i had to splice a new plug on.

User avatar
snake240
Posts: 344
Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:16 pm
Car: 92 hatch SR20DET

Post

my redtop came with a 6 wire tps. i havent changed it. my idle was redic and i cleaned iacv and tadaa. idles like a champ now.

User avatar
S14Chask
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan s14

Post

how did you clean your iacv? what did you do?

skaterfromvt
Posts: 192
Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 8:16 am
Car: 1989 240sx sr20 blacktop Built not bought 87 v8 rx7 fc3(50) 95 s14, 00 dodge ram 1500
Contact:

Post

S14Chask wrote:how did you clean your iacv? what did you do?
zerothread?id=251731

this should help although its for a redtop

User avatar
S14Chask
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan s14

Post

yea i tried that just now it did absolutely nothing.. im gona try and upload a video of what its doing.. dont mind the belt squeak i have a leak somewhere on the front of the car it may be oil pan or pump?? or hopefully its just power steering.

my problem is pretty hard to explain if i give you a detailed explanation that may help but idk.. basicly when i turn on the car it will idle super low around 500rpm's or lower.. if i let it sit with out giveing it gas it will idle then just die.

if i start the car again it will idle at the same rpms 500 or lower but when i give it gas say i rev it to 4g rpms it will die down to about 2500-2000 rpms and will sometimes stay at that range or slowly go back down to around 500 or lower rpms..

the car drives fine it just runs like crap at idle the car will sometimes die out at a light if i dont keep giveing it gas

i just cleaned the iacv and that did nothing ive tinkerd with the idle set screw and it did nothing.. my whole car smells like gas and im useing alot of fuel like i filled up my tank this morning and did a bit of driveing around and now im at half tank..

i had to rewire my maf plug becuase before when you moved it it would raise or lower the rpms

im guessing my tps is messed up or something it has something to do with my maf.. i messed with my tps a bit alredy but it has done nothing..

i dont have a vacume leak

im just super confused and very upset.. i just spent alot of money and im going to be stuck rideing my bike for another 4 months till i can pay it off to get another car... my luckkk suckkkkssssssssssssssssssss

User avatar
snake240
Posts: 344
Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:16 pm
Car: 92 hatch SR20DET

Post

make sure the shielding for the maf wires is grounded. in cleaning the iacv did you remove and clean or just spray cleaner. if you sprayed, the debris could still be built up and clogged it. also make sure all your grounds everywhere are good.

User avatar
S14Chask
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan s14

Post

yea i just took out the screw and sprayed carb cleaner in it im almost positive all my grounds are set.. the place that did my wireing did honestly a ****ty ****ing job if you saw the harness its like near impossible to even tuck it clean its ****ty ill check the maf liek you said i put a video up of how its running.

User avatar
snake240
Posts: 344
Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:16 pm
Car: 92 hatch SR20DET

Post

id take the iacv off and clean. its a pain but can be done without removing intake. just spraying cleaner wont do if its to filthy, and can make it worse. check all grounds w/ a meter. put on continuity put one lead on a good ground point, use other lead and test ground wires. you dont want to see no more than .1, if you do undo grounds and shiny up all surfaces. the shielding also only needs to be grounded on one end.

skaterfromvt
Posts: 192
Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 8:16 am
Car: 1989 240sx sr20 blacktop Built not bought 87 v8 rx7 fc3(50) 95 s14, 00 dodge ram 1500
Contact:

Post

okay you cleaned the iacv...good but that doesn't totally eliminate that the whole thing could be faulty..but since changing the screw loosing and tightening doesn't effect it lets try something else....

i know you don't think its your MAF but a messed up maf will stop your car from running...a 1000 different ways...so lets try that route so we can try to eliminate that...

now you can run your car with out the maf plugged in....so i suggest you unplug your maf and start your car...what were trying to do is see if your idle steady's and if you can rev it til it gets to 2500 rpms

when your maf is unplugged you shouldn't be able to rev it must past 2500 and also with your maf unplugged it will run rich...and your (if this is the problem) your idle will steady because it will stop trying to tell the ecu to correct....

okay so try the MAF for me and let me know how this works..

i live in SC and if we cant figure it out on here i might be able to help drive down and help you out...but im confident that we can figure it out...

and if this doesnt work...theres a couple other things it could be...like

YOU MAY HAVE A PRE TURBO EXHAUST LEAK ...there really is no easy way to tell but you might be able to plug the exhaust and listen or see smoke coming from where the manifold meets the turbo...

this will also cause ur car to run rich since the turbo will not be forcing as much air into the mani as your maf thinks!...okay well check this stuff out and get keep us updated

User avatar
S14Chask
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan s14

Post

awesome i really apperciate it its just getting upsetting after sinking soo much money and time into it and me and my friends knocked out a few things off the list i made of stuff to check over also this will help quite a bit for you and everyone else viewing this post ill upload a video tomorrow of how its running soo you can get the idea of my issue.. ive called a few places and they basicly dont tell me anything to solve my problem im not talking like a local shop more like a shop that deals with sr's and such all the time.. theplace that sold me the motor is kinda ehhh i mean its a clean motor no doubt but.. the servace is crap and they are hard to get ahold of from time to time

User avatar
S14Chask
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan s14

Post

oh well im on luch right now and i just check the maff i unpluged it and it still idled high at 2000rpms but when i pluged it back in i also noticed when i wiggle the wires my rpms droped... the plug might be bad? do you think?

skaterfromvt
Posts: 192
Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 8:16 am
Car: 1989 240sx sr20 blacktop Built not bought 87 v8 rx7 fc3(50) 95 s14, 00 dodge ram 1500
Contact:

Post

.... ((read very carefully)

when you unplug the maf...it might not effect the idle and it could stay idleing at 2000 rpms(this would be fine) its the unwanted change in idle that is the problem right?....

try this

unplug the maf and push the gas pedal (rev the engine slowly bring up the rpms)....

1 of 2 things will happen

A. you will be able to rev it to 2500 rpm's and thats about it...and it will hit a rev limiter...(this is good if this happens)

A.1 if while its unplugged and you can rev to only 2500 rpms...then LET YOUR CAR IDLE (dont touch the gas pedal!) AND TELL ME IF YOU HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM - WITH IT CHANGING FROM 1500rpms TO 500rpms TO 2000 RPMS ECT...when its cold to when the engine is hot...

~~~~IF YOUR CARS IDLE DOES CHANGE WITH THE MAF UNPLUGGED GOING FROM A COLD ENGINE TO A WARM ENGINE OR HOW EVER THE IDLE WAS CHANGING BEFORE THEN THE PROBLEM IS SOMETHING ELSE....BUT IF THE IDLE SITS AT 2000 RPMS AND DOES NOT CHANGE THEN THIS IS GOOD WE CAN FIX THAT PROBLEM EASY

or

B. you will be able to rev past 2500rpms like usual and having the maf unplug will change nothing...meaning you can give it gas and it will still rev to lets say 4500 rpms ......>>>>>if this is the case then I would say your MAF WIRING IS MESSED UP some where along the path of the wires...because the wires are some how getting current from something...

try that and let me know what happens were almost there i know how it is to put a lot of money in it and have it not run thats why im helping you (i had an sr20det in my car for over 2 months before it ran halfway right!)

ill check back on you tomorrow night!

User avatar
S14Chask
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan s14

Post

ok soo im on lunch again i didint cold start it and check it i just did this while it was warm

OK soo

1st when i got home i poped my hood and turend the car off then i waited a few seconds and turned it back on... it started at super low rpms like 600-800 rpms then i let it sit and it slowly went up to 1700 rpms... after a few min of it sitting at 1700 i turned the car off

2nd i unplugged the maf and then got back into my car and started it.. INSTANTLY starts and goes stright to 2000 rpms with a steady idle no problems what so ever... when i gave it gas it would not let me rev past 2500 at all

3erd i plugged back in the maff and started the car again it ran at the same low rough idle at start then i gave it gas it went up to about 2000 rpms and was surging up and down slowly from 2000 to 1500 then it droped down kinda fast to 800 rpms and my car was shakeing and it sounded like it had cams then i let it sit and it slowly went up to about 1300 rpms then slowly droped down then i gave it a little gas and it went back up to 2000 stayed for a few seconds and slowly droped down.. then i just shut it off...

sooo from the looks of it..... it has to do with my maf.. becuase with the maf unpluged it idles at 2000 perfectly no sergeing and it doeisnt idle low and die out...

soo could it be a mix of things?? my maf tps and IACV? becuase i had to wire in a new tps and that could explain my gas useage, as well as the Iacv explaing my idle at 2000 with the maf plug off..

i really apperciate your help man you have been wonders!!!!!!!!!!

skaterfromvt
Posts: 192
Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 8:16 am
Car: 1989 240sx sr20 blacktop Built not bought 87 v8 rx7 fc3(50) 95 s14, 00 dodge ram 1500
Contact:

Post



HAHAHA

There that wasn't too hard...

okay from what i read...

the reason your idle is at 2000 rpms is because your iacv is opened up with your maf unplugged you will be able to adjust that back to around 800 or 1200 ....your preference...by turning the screw...

also the reason your using so much gas is probably because your maf is thinking its getting more air then it actually is...(could be faulty) try and trade it out with one u know is working or might just need to be cleaned u can pick up maf cleaner at the parts store

if you use a maf u know is working and you have the same problem when you plug it in...then it is likely that it could be the wiring to the maf or the plug...

***Very Important****when the maf is wired up you have to be very careful not to let any of those wires touch or ground out while your vehicle is running because it will fry the ecu so disconnect the battery if you have to rewire the maf plug i might even unplug the ecu! i fried 2 of them but best1tuning.com a place in pa was able to repair them for me

let me know when you replace it and get it running!!!...

im glad i could help you.!!!! i spent 2 - 16 hour days!!! one weekend with the same problem

User avatar
S14Chask
Posts: 129
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan s14

Post

ok soo im on lunch again i didint cold start it and check it i just did this while it was warm

OK soo

1st when i got home i poped my hood and turend the car off then i waited a few seconds and turned it back on... it started at super low rpms like 600-800 rpms then i let it sit and it slowly went up to 1700 rpms... after a few min of it sitting at 1700 i turned the car off

2nd i unplugged the maf and then got back into my car and started it.. INSTANTLY starts and goes stright to 2000 rpms with a steady idle no problems what so ever... when i gave it gas it would not let me rev past 2500 at all

3erd i plugged back in the maff and started the car again it ran at the same low rough idle at start then i gave it gas it went up to about 2000 rpms and was surging up and down slowly from 2000 to 1500 then it droped down kinda fast to 800 rpms and my car was shakeing and it sounded like it had cams then i let it sit and it slowly went up to about 1300 rpms then slowly droped down then i gave it a little gas and it went back up to 2000 stayed for a few seconds and slowly droped down.. then i just shut it off...

sooo from the looks of it..... it has to do with my maf.. becuase with the maf unpluged it idles at 2000 perfectly no sergeing and it doeisnt idle low and die out...

soo could it be a mix of things?? my maf tps and IACV? becuase i had to wire in a new tps and that could explain my gas useage, as well as the Iacv explaing my idle at 2000 with the maf plug off..

i really apperciate your help man you have been wonders!!!!!!!!!!

User avatar
redsx13
Posts: 748
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:32 am
Car: 93 240sx 03 350z

Post

Recheck your tps! at acc, it should be around .5 volts closed and 4.5 volts open. now, turn your car off,and unplug your tps. check the ohms between pin #1 and #2. you should get around 2 ohms when closed and around 10 open. the numbers dont have to be exact, but if the tps is bad, the numbers will be way off. My car had a similar problem, and i had to replace the tps.

User avatar
redsx13
Posts: 748
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:32 am
Car: 93 240sx 03 350z

Post

also......did you say that your iacv screw doesnt do anything, or it doesn't do anything to make the car run smoother??


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”