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qship96
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Car: 1996 Infiniti Q45

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Anyone go shopping for deals on auto related stuff for your Q today? While everyone was at the malls, I headed to Pepboys for their great sale on Mobil 1 oils- got 24 quarts of 0w-40 for only $4/qt....half off the normal price!!!! I now have enough oil & filters stashed to last til I hit the magic 300K mile mark!!!!


OwnerCS
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Thanks QShip for the heads up! I loaded up on PureOne filters from your last lead.

I

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Q451990
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The guys over at the BITOG forum will be proud! :D

Heath

qship96
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Car: 1996 Infiniti Q45

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For those that missed the sale.........Advance Auto is also offering the Mobil 1 at $4 per quart if you buy online and pick up at your local store.....good thru December 1st!!!!! Discount does not show until you add to your cart on website...hurry

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Q451990
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qship96 wrote:For those that missed the sale.........Advance Auto is also offering the Mobil 1 at $4 per quart if you buy online and pick up at your local store.....good thru December 1st!!!!! Discount does not show until you add to your cart on website...hurry
Beautiful! I really have no reason not to stock up on 0-W40 European Formula at $4/qt :chuckle:

Heath

qship96
Posts: 6624
Joined: Sun Nov 24, 2002 11:31 am
Car: 1996 Infiniti Q45

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Yeah, know what you mean- I still have lots of Redline oil sitting on the shelf, but at $4/qt for M1 0w-40, I could not resist,especially since my only source of great pricing on Redline recently "adjusted" their prices.....it came down to spending either $11/qt for RL 5w-40 or $4/qt for M1 0w-40..........the $4/qt M1 seemed the more reasonable choice all things considered!

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elwesso
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Man thanks for the heads up, $4 a quart is hard to beat for M1.. Maybe I'll start going back to my 60U and M1 routine like I used to. I have been using purolator pure 1 filter and castrol conventional every 3-4 months for a couple years now, however back then I would hardly drive 2000 miles in that time span and most of it was highway (car sat a lot)

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djwarner
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Car: 1971 240Z Series I
2006 350Z
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OK guys, not to hijack this thread, but I went to Advanced Auto and ordered 12 qts. The website and confirmation email called it "European Car Formula" PN 98BB05. When I got to the local store to pick it up, the only Mobil 1 0W40 they had lacked the "European Car Formula" on the label and had a PN 98HC64.

I went home to search the web to understand the difference and couldn't find any details. Amazon.com lists a PN 98KG00.

Have they changed the formula and/or base stocks? Or is the PN revision simply to update the standards conformance? Is 0W40 significantly different than 5W30 et al?

qship96
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Mobil seems to regularly tweek the look of its bottles including ad copy to push product- the ow-40 only comes in one variety for the USA market according to their website. The 0w-40 is their top of the line product,meeting some of the toughest standards set by European manufacturers and according to many,believed to be the only weight M1 product still using their best basestocks

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Q451990
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djwarner wrote:Is 0W40 significantly different than 5W30 et al?
I did a good bit of reading on the Bob is the Oil Guy site last night, and I'm beginning to re-think the 0W-40 idea, and may go 0-W30 instead... but it's sadly not available in the AAP sale. For anyone that hasn't read "Motor Oil 101" - it's well worth your time! http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index ... &Itemid=92

Long story short, a 0W oil will flow better at lower temperatures, and that's when the oil doesn't lubricate as well as you'd want it to. Full synthetics already have a head up on dino-based oils at ambient temperatures below 100F. All Xw-30 oils lubricate as well at normal operating temperatures in theory.

I now understand why I let my cars warm up before driving them... and drive them gently until warmed up completely. I hate to admit it, but I just did it because "Q45Tech said to" and because the manual said to do it up until now.

Heath

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Q451990
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elwesso wrote:Maybe I'll start going back to my 60U and M1 routine like I used to.
Do you have a secret stash of 60U00's sitting around? :chuckle:

I have heard good things about the pure 1 filter, as well as the M1 filter I've been buying from IOS

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djwarner
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Q451990, your comment about going back to 30W made me pull out the Machinery Handbook and review lubrication theory again. At 230 degrees 30W has a viscosity of 6.8 Centipoise while 40W is 9.6. For journal bearings there are three forms of lubrication, boundary, mixed, and full film. With the first two, some metal to metal contact occurs with resultant increase in friction and wear. All journal bearings operate in boundary lubrication during start-up and transition to mixed and then full boundary as speeds and pressures build up. This is why it is said that most wear occurs at start-up.

The transition points vary directly proportional to viscosity and rpm and inversely proportional to load pressure. Thus at start up, when temperature is low and viscosity is high, a 10W oil requires a higher rpm to achieve full film lubrication compared to 0W.

The lowest coefficient of friction occurs when full film lubrication occurs. As viscosity or rpm increases beyond this transition point, coefficient of friction increases. This means that using 40W at normal operating temperatures will have a higher coefficient than 30W but will be able to sustain full films under greater loads.

Bob the oil guy notes using a higher viscosity oil will raise oil pressure but not increase oil flow and heat removal may actually be hurt. Oil pumps are gear pumps that function as constant displacement pumps. They want to displace the same volume with every revolution and will generate whatever pressures needed to accomplish this. Pressures are limited by leakage internal to the pump itself. Higher pressures are required to push the thicker oil through the journals though the extra heat generated by this friction is much less than the heat generated by increased coefficient of friction at the journal bearing itself. And both of these are much less than the heat generated by combustion.

In conclusion using a 0W40 instead of a 10W30 would have a significant advantage during warm-up when most wear occurs but have a slight adverse effect on mileage at operating temperature. Without considering longevity of one base stock over the other, a 0W30 oil would appear to be the best solution.

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Q451990
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I think I see an oil pressure gauge purchase in my future.

Heath


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