I just rebuilt my KA, and got it running. I was making a long journey, and my ASP pulley apparently had a burr and cut into the front seal. Well, I ran out of oil and it made a sound. I imediately pulled over to find it siezed and out of oil. When it cooled it unseized and I put oil in it. It started and ran, but made a hell of a lot of noise. I had it towed to someplace I could work on it. I found that I 'almost' threw a rod. One rod stud had the threads wiped off, and the bolt fell out. The other was holding it together, but making a hell of a lot of noise. I am concerned about the valves, but I will tackle that when I get there. I would prefer not to take the head off until the results of a compression test show it to be necessary. What has happened that concerns me is that the bearing on my #3 rod (the one that seized) has welded itself to the crank. While there seems to be no damage to the crank, I cannot think of a good way to get the bearing off. The crank is still in the car, and I would prefer to keep it that way, but for any of you that have done this, you know that #3 is right above the sub-frame. I know that I will need new studs, but think that (if I can get it off) I can replace just the bearing. That said, I need creative ways of making that happen. Or if anyone thinks I can replace the studs and slap the cap back on, I am open to that. Long story short, the crank will have to stay in the car.
Here are my thoughts:
I think that I can take a rough file and file it away until I get to the crank's hardened surface. If I pay very close attention while doing this, I should not hurt the finish. Once I do this, it should release the load on the bearing, so I can pry it off. Also, I can take a dremel tool with the stylus and cut-off wheel and grind a line in it to do the same. What I want to know is if I have my head in the clouds or if this can be done. BTW, forget the insults, just the facts please.
Big Problem, please advise
DAMN THAT SUCKS!!!
Seriously, as someone who blew his head gasket 2 weeks after rebuilding his motor, i know how frustrated you are right now.
But i dont see a way you can do this job with the motor in the car. I would just yank it again, dismantle as little as possible with it on the stand, and have 100% access to the bottom end. But thats just my opinion on what I would do.
Good luck.
Seriously, as someone who blew his head gasket 2 weeks after rebuilding his motor, i know how frustrated you are right now.
But i dont see a way you can do this job with the motor in the car. I would just yank it again, dismantle as little as possible with it on the stand, and have 100% access to the bottom end. But thats just my opinion on what I would do.
Good luck.
-
DjPantsSpecR
- Posts: 1711
- Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:49 pm
- Car: 93 Nissan MS13
92 Nissan RMS13
Chez, im really really sorry man, i know you were messin with that for a while.
i had bent valves, and i waited for three months til a guy finished my free headwork with my spare set of valves. i was crashing on a friends couch for three months. I put the head on and ran it that night. it ran great that night for 50 miles.
i ****ed up and forgot, that after you do a headgasket you ALWAYS change the oil. water gets in there. Needless to say the next morning i fired up the car to go to school and it made a belt screech noise and ran like a hammer on an anvil. Spun #3 on start up after running it fine the night before. letting oil sit with water in it brings it to the top, everyone knows that.
so i swaped two heads that day, but i understand you dont have that option, sorry man.
I would pull that motor. You can get the bearing you need from nissan just by checking the stamped on grades, but thats not really your concern yet. My bearing welded it self to the rod after the bearings stacked up and melted all over each other.
i really think you should get the crank machined and get an oversized bearing, because if you just filed the bearing weld off you would have to have it polished before you used it.
if you even hit a bearing with a threaded stud during an install i wouldnt use it because the crank will constantly grind the beaing until it is out of spec adn it spins again.
i know thats not what youre trying to hear, and i already think youre nuts for all the bottom end work youve done under the car, but unless you want to put in a lot of work polishing and plastigaging up a new bearing while under the car, i would pull that crank.
my crank got wounded as a result, but nothing welded to it, adn i wont use it until i clean it up, unless you are the king with a file i just dont know if you can clean it up enough
i had bent valves, and i waited for three months til a guy finished my free headwork with my spare set of valves. i was crashing on a friends couch for three months. I put the head on and ran it that night. it ran great that night for 50 miles.
i ****ed up and forgot, that after you do a headgasket you ALWAYS change the oil. water gets in there. Needless to say the next morning i fired up the car to go to school and it made a belt screech noise and ran like a hammer on an anvil. Spun #3 on start up after running it fine the night before. letting oil sit with water in it brings it to the top, everyone knows that.
so i swaped two heads that day, but i understand you dont have that option, sorry man.
I would pull that motor. You can get the bearing you need from nissan just by checking the stamped on grades, but thats not really your concern yet. My bearing welded it self to the rod after the bearings stacked up and melted all over each other.
i really think you should get the crank machined and get an oversized bearing, because if you just filed the bearing weld off you would have to have it polished before you used it.
if you even hit a bearing with a threaded stud during an install i wouldnt use it because the crank will constantly grind the beaing until it is out of spec adn it spins again.
i know thats not what youre trying to hear, and i already think youre nuts for all the bottom end work youve done under the car, but unless you want to put in a lot of work polishing and plastigaging up a new bearing while under the car, i would pull that crank.
my crank got wounded as a result, but nothing welded to it, adn i wont use it until i clean it up, unless you are the king with a file i just dont know if you can clean it up enough