Big problem after ka24e to ka24de swap.

[chrisagu28]

Alright, I have searched the forum and google. I just finished the swap cause the kid before me blew up the ka24e motor. Well I swapped the harness, motor, just about everything and the motor ran great before we took it out. Well I got the car started and such and it ran bad like described later and blew the head gasket. I just finished everything and putting everything back together. Well here is the problem, It runs so bad. The idle is SUPER high like 3 grand and it climbs, to about 5 grand then back down to 3 grand in a few seconds and then it tries to die, If I keep on the gas it stays about 500 grand and once I let off it jumps to 1 grand then dies. Sometimes It just dies. This has really stumped me... The ecu says there is no problem. I dunno what to do and I have found all my answers on this forum until now.

I forgot to mention that I did a emissions delete so there is barely any vacuum lines left. PLEASE PLEASE help me. I have no idea why is it doing this.

[spindrift187]

what all did you remove/leave?

[liquid_cool]

dude..you actually need some of the vacume lines..might wana reverse the uninstall of the lines till ya fix the issue.

[chrisagu28]

Well it did the same thing with the emissions on it so it honestly made it no difference. I went by the emissions removal guide. I have some vacuum lines there. The ones it told me to keep. I dunno why it is doing this. Would a bad ecu maybe cause this. I have a auto ecu on the car but the car is 5speed. I don't hear any hissing from the vacuum lines.

[chrisagu28]

Well figure I would give an update. I got the throttle to calm down, I think the cruise control cable kept the throttle open a bit, so now it start at 1200 rpm.

But when starting the car I gotta floor it until it starts and keep giving it gas or it will die cause it won't idle. I was reading and thinking it was a stuck open injector. How can I test it to see if it is a injector?

I am having the same problem this guy had in his thread. At least the first post and the situation is the same, Engine swap in to a 89 body.

zerothread/186639
Modified by chrisagu28 at 5:45 PM 11/10/2008

[chrisagu28]

Well today was kinda weird. I am hoping somebody can help me. More of a update and eliminating the normal problems. Last night when trying to start it, It would not start at all.... After checking the ecu it came out with code 11 which is crankshaft position sensor. Well after some research that night, I tried testing it today by taking out the distributor, I also moved the fuel rail to see if the injectors are firing and did the same with the spark plugs and wires.

After spinning it by hands, I hear a relay kick on, i see the injectors firing one at a time as well as the spark plugs spark as well. So I got fuel and spark so no worries there. I put it all back together and try to start the car, still no luck. Hours and hours of trying to figure something out. Sometimes it wants to start but yet sometimes its a no go. What is weird is, I moved the intake piping off so the throttle body was showing and at the same time I removed the plugs to see if there were wet and they are dry. I put them back in and start the car again. BAM! it starts out of no where. Of course with me flooring it. But it start and idled at 1700. It start to dip down and I was oh no. I gave it some gas and it would not go above 2500 and I remembered about the piping so the maf was not working right. so I let off the gas and it bounced around from 1400-1700 and it sounded a little bit like it was missing but yet my timing is not exactly set. But yet this is the first time it kept idle without it dying. I cut if off cause something was spraying in the engine bay, stupid hose camp on coolant came loose. It will not start again.

I was thinking it might be my timing, maf, intake, ecu, or tps. Sorry for the story but please help me out. I am running out of ideas.

But to sum it up, I got spark, fuel, compression, and air. But it will not start again.
Modified by chrisagu28 at 3:09 AM 11/11/2008

[chrisagu28]

Alright another bump, I hope somebody can give me some help. After doing some research, I found some one with a youtube video with the same exact thing mine is doing. Minus it takes long to start. Please help me out. Alot of people are saying timing is off, But like timing chain or distributor?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVX5gZj0oKc
Modified by chrisagu28 at 6:35 AM 11/11/2008

[MikeyCee]

hey, I'm not the best person with cars out there but I do have a 95 altima, ka24de, that had a problem not exactly like that but def similar. Lets say it is timing considering you already said the plugs and injectors are working. This is where I need help from the more experienced members on this forum. With the distributor, because its a dual cam, would he need a different distributor than the one he had initially on the single cam? One thought... Also, I have no idea how to go about timing the valves seeing as thought I've never done it but judging by the way the engine is shaking like crazy in the engine mounts, i have a feeling its a mechanical problem over an ignition timing. My distributor was shot and I was getting the engine hanging at 4k rpms with the pedal to the ground then after being on full gas for like 4 or 5 seconds it would rip insanely hard to 7k. As well as stalling and running at really low rough RPMs before stalling.

None the less i couldn't think of anything else it'd be. But vacuum lines are a necessity as well in some cases so I guess just do what everyone else was saying.. Retrace your steps with what you removed or altered and if that doesn't solve it, I'd def take a look to see if you popped a tooth or something on the timing chain. Then I guess take apart the distributor and see if anything looks out of place. Process of elimination I suppose...

[holycrapitsJR]

From my understanding, once you swap a dualcam into a SOHC chassis, you cannot use the diagnostics in the ecu anymore, So I dont know about the camshaft sensor issue. Also I'm not 100% sure on this but I think you need a manual ECU. the auto ECU might be sending messed up signals to the engine because it isn't getting a whole array of data that it used to get from the trans. Did you change to a DOHC MAF? that could be it too. I always thought that with a fuel injected vehicle that you shouldnt floor it to start the car...dunno hope this helps