Big 3 Electrical Upgrade (56k is a No No)

[rogueagent08]

Alright, i'm planning a nice install maintaining the factory unit. I'm just doing things before going full force with the install. The Big 3 Upgrade is very common and helps alot for demanding electrical systems.

Tools:8mm Socket10mm SocketWire/Bolt CuttersCrimpersMagnetic Pickup ToolPick or Flat Head Screwdriver

Install Items:Approx. 8ft of 1/0 Gauge Wire6 1/0 Gauge Ring Terminals with 3/8" Hole4-8 Zip Ties

Overview of Stock Engine

Engine to Chassis Ground (mimic the factory wire). you'll need the 8mm Socket to remove both bolts. I just took the factory wire and made one the exact same length.

I originally did this b/c I didn't see the factory grounding point under the intake piping. This is also not a good grounding point, so this is an example of a bad location.

Got off my butt and did it the right way, locating a factory grounding point. again you'll need the 8mm socket to remove this one.

Up close of the above grounding point. To get to this point, you'll need to use the pick or flathead screw driver to remove the plastic rivets holding the intake snorkel to the upper radiator support. you'll also need to squeeze the snorkel where it meets the factory airbox to remove.

Make sure that you have both battery terminals off when doing this part. 8mm will help remove terminals. 10mm socket will remove bolt for alt. I routed the wire along the factory route till it got to the battery. when I got the battery, i routed it behind the battery and up and around the battery hold down.

Everything put back together.

[NismoPhan]

Very nice step by step. Not a lot of people go through the steps to making their vehicle a "clean" environment. Pretty much eliminates any "noise" you may pick up by takin' all the ground loops out of the equation. My kudos to you.

[Sardonic]

Did you fuse the upgraded power wire? If so, what fuse did you use, if not, why not?

[philipa_240sx]

Did you fuse the upgraded power wire? If so, what fuse did you use, if not, why not?

I agree, there should be a fusible link on any wire coming from positive battery terminal. A short anywhere (ie. insulation rubbing off the wiring) will result in a massive amount of current flow... in the hundreds of amps. This will heat up the wire and causing the insulation to melt and catch fire. All OEM's put fusible links on thier battery leads (on the battery end) to prevent this sort of issue, you should too!

[Sardonic]

Well, what gets me is that the stock wire is not fused, so then I figure if that's the case, an additional wire, assuming proper sleeving and such, doesn't need to be fused. Besides, what good would fusing the upgraded wire do if the stock wire isn't? That's the dilemma, trying to figure out if there is a fusible link or something other type of wire short prevention that is not visible.

[philipa_240sx]

The fusible link is in the large 'box' hanging off the LH side of the battery. There is a 140A fuse in there along with several smaller fuses (80 to 100A). You will notice positive cable is not directly connected to the battery, but to a terminal in this box.

You have effectively bypassed the stock fusible link... IMHO this is just asking for trouble.

[Sardonic]

Yup, that's been the dilemma all weekend. So, to increase the size of the stock wire from the alt to the battery, what would be the most efficient and SAFE manner?

[philipa_240sx]

If you open up the top cover to the fusible link box that hangs off the battery, you will find the positive wire from the alternator connects to a separate terminal lug about 1" or so from the battery terminal. Simply connect your new heavier wire there. IMHO this is the correct way to do it.

[lou from ny]

pardon my ignorance, but why do this mod? is it for a neater appearance, to make the system run more efficiently, or something else?thankslou

[Sardonic]

Nothing ignorant about it, can't learn without asking. That's what I'm doing!Allegedly, to compensate for the extra draw of demanding audio systems, this mod is done to increase the ease of the flow of power. If I'm explaining it correctly, it's allowing the power to flow more freely.

So you upgrade the size of the alternator to battery wire, you ground the battery to the chassis and you ground the engine to the chassis. Better ground, easier power flow, less impact from the demand of big systems.

Probably won't notice a damn thing on newer cars and probably won't make a difference since most new cars are already multi-point grounded but I'm trying it anyway. It makes as much sense as a capacitor. I think the only real upgrade to aid a demanding system is a higher output alternator but I'm trying the DIY and less expensive mods first.

So far, I've done the grounding, the optima yellow top and the 2 farad cap. The lights dimming from the high demand has decreased and even though the volts drop, they don't bottom out and dance all over the place. Didn't completely cure the issue but it "seems" to have lessened it.

The yellow top was a last minute change because I fought the concept tooth and nail. Until I found out it was a deep cycle and specifically designed for the abuse a high power system will throw at it. Doesn't give any more power, just makes the pull a little easier to recover from.

The only thing I've noticed about the grounding is that when I'm not going fast enough in a gear, I no longer have that little reminder nudge that the car would do. It's smoother. Does this come from the extra grounding? Who knows? It's not impactful enough to say definitively. The pretty blue wires look good under the hood though, that's worth the price. (they were free).

Biggest improvement to sound quality from my gear was dead on matching the head unit volts to the amp volts. That was a measurable improvement. Everthing else is just an experiment.

Thoughts and help appreciated.

[Sardonic]

Philipa_240sx thanks for that. I'll look at it tonight.

[Leo2005]

I like this idea and I bought Raizin voltage stabilizer kit. So far I connected engine only. Will connect the rest when it gets a little warmer:

[SquiggyFreud]

I am trying to ID the part number for this screw, it is longer than the chassis ground screws, anyone know what it is?

[TrevorK]

I am trying to ID the part number for this screw, it is longer than the chassis ground screws, anyone know what it is?

The dealer should be able to pull it up for you, I'm not sure any of the programs I have access to go down to the bolt level.

You could also just get one from a nut/bolt shop if you bring in the old one. Because (I assume) you're not using it for anything structural you do not need to worry about grading or anything just a matter of thread and length. This is what I typically do for bolts (that are not used in critical components) because it's way easier/cheaper than going through the dealer.