BG 9210 Inject-A-Flush Advice needed on a 1993 Q45 with poss

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Infinitiguy19
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I am having an idling problem on my 1993 Q45, Basically it won't idle below most of the time the other times I have no idea ho it idles better but not a smooth as it should be (at 650 RPM's +or- 50 RPM's)

I did clean the AAC valve and installed a new gasket, But the AAC valve was not cleaned so it was brand new, I just did the best i could with brake parts cleaner and a tooth brush.

The MAF sensor is confirmed good, there are no burn marks on the board and all the solder joints look good to the naked eye.

The Fuel pump is humming but I need it to last this winter and I know it will becuase its 19* out and no way am I sitting in that temp. to change a fuel pump, No matter how much I love my car.

And of course all the injectors OHMs at 12.x OHMs last time I checked.

But the bottom line is: Will BG 9210 Inject-A-Flush fix the problem if the injectors are clogged?
Last edited by Infinitiguy19 on Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Q451990
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It should clean your injectors... so if your problem is dirty injectors, it should help. From your description, I don't know that you don't have something else going on...

Harbor Freight sells a similar flush apparatus that's not overly expensive... might be OK for DIY use. A lot of their tools are that way... good for occasional use, but not hefty enough to stand up to professional daily shop use.

Heath

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Infinitiguy19
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Yea i saw this post: zerothread/330466

Only problem is I don't know how to use the device and I don't have a air compressor.

Thats why I am seeking a professional's help.

O and I forgot a detail: the Injector(s) Tick on a cold startup but then goes away.

The injectors and rails were replaced in 2005: zerothread?id=110897

I bought this car from "gloucester Q"

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Infinitiguy19
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I was told $100 for a Injector flush and a TB cleaning.

And the mechanic puts the apartus on the car then starts up pours some of the BG chemical in then removes the relay then lets it run off the BG chemical and when it goes to stall he reinstalls the relay then removes again when the car runs "fine".

Basically the "injectors" are ticking all the time now, and there is still a buzzing sound when the throttle is depressed when the iginition is ON.

Please tell me will this flush cure the ticking problem?

The ticking noise increases with RPM's

This all started one morning when I was started the car and let it run, and has contined from there with no change in sysmtoms.

Please all I want for christmas is my baby to purr, then I will continue my mods.

Thanks, and if there is any more info you need such as a video or any thing else let me know becae I want this problem fixed.

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goody90q45
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ppastos wrote:.............But the bottom line is: Will BG 9210 Inject-A-Flush fix the problem if the injectors are clogged?
The 90Q I just sold had two plugged injectors that ohmed fine. I confirmed they were plugged by shutting off one cylinder at a time using Nissan Data Scan. I took it to the shop and paid $125 for an injector flush which did not clear them up so I ended up replacing them.

You have spare injectors (one new one?) so why not drop one in #8 and see if there's any improvement.

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Infinitiguy19
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To be honest, I am some what scared on working on that part of the engine, I have the knowledge but not the will.

Just looking for an easy solution.

You know what I have that new one saved for some one who want to buy it, But how do I ohm the injectors if there off the car?

I have the injectors connected to the harness and there still on the rails as well.

But do the symtoms that I have match the ones you have with your 1990 black Q45?

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goody90q45
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ppastos wrote:But how do I ohm the injectors if there off the car?
Touch both probes of the voltmeter, in the ohms resistance setting, to the two pins on the injector.
ppastos wrote:.....but do the symtoms that I have match the ones you have with your 1990 black Q45?
Even with 2 dead injectors the engine still idled at 700rpm. I'm not sure what you're base idle is (edit your first post) but a couple of marginal or even plugged injectors shouldn't affect [edited] base idle rpm. It sounds like you have another issue going on- TPS? Could the noise you're hearing be a vacuum leak? Burned oil/exhaust smell in the engine compartment- Check the large 3/4" hoses and manifold feeding into the air tube for cracks.
ppastos wrote:To be honest, I am some what scared on working on that part of the engine, I have the knowledge but not the will.
Vaseline is your friend when changing injectors (lots of it), 19 degree weather isn't. If you do put the fuel injector in wrong you'll know right away and the neighbors will think a new pope has been elected because of all the white smoke. Just turn the engine off and try again. It's not rocket science. IMHO changing injector #8 would be the easiest solution at this point.

Modified by goody94q45 at 7:26 PM 12/9/2008
Modified by goody94q45 at 7:27 PM 12/9/2008

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Infinitiguy19
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Touch both probes of the voltmeter, in the ohms resistance setting, to the two pins on the injector.

Thanks

Even with 2 dead injectors the engine still idled at 700rpm. I'm not sure what you're base idle is (edit your first post) but a couple of marginal or even plugged injectors shouldn't affect idle. It sounds like you have another issue going on- TPS? Could the noise you're hearing be a vacuum leak? Burned oil/exhaust smell in the engine compartment- Check the large 3/4" hoses and manifold feeding into the air tube for cracks.

Some times it idles at 1000 PRM's fairly smooth. But other times it idels at 700 RPM's kinda rough don't know what cause is it to change idle perhaps the ECM.

The noise I am hearing is a buzzing noise when the car is off and the ignition is turned on, if I press the throttle a little when the car is off the noise can be heard, 1990Q45 said its the TCS actuator other have no idea.

No burnt oil or exhaust or fuel smeel in the cabin.

Where is the large 3/4" hoses and manifold feeding into the air tube for cracks.

Vaseline is your friend when changing injectors (lots of it), 19 degree weather isn't. If you do put the fuel injector in wrong you'll know right away and the neighbors will think a new pope has been elected because of all the white smoke. Just turn the engine off and try again. It's not rocket science. IMHO changing injector #8 would be the easiest solution at this point.

Yea it was 19 degress yesterday but it warmed up to the low 50's.

I am just afraid of stripping the bolt head, tighting the scres to tight or not tight enough... But I hope to run a PB test a couple of times and I will post the results.

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[QUOTE=goody94q45] If you do put the fuel injector in wrong you'll know right away and the neighbors will think a new pope has been elected because of all the white smoke.

Dude,

That was hilarious....many thanks!

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"A couple of plugged or even marginal fuel injectors wont affect idle"----SAY WHAT???? THey would greatly affect idle quality!!!!!!!!

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Let me rephrase- It won't affect base idle RPM. Agreed that it will definately cause rough idle.

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oldmako wrote:
goody94q45 wrote:That was hilarious....many thanks!
Thanks. Just following in your footsteps.

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Infinitiguy19
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So the ECU will try to maintain the Base RPM as best as possible with 1 or more bad injector or sparkplug.

So the idle RPM problem is else where, But the roughness is the injectors.

Did the person that did the BG injector flush on your 1990 black Q45 do this as stated by Q45Tech:

With a rail flush you need to be able to adjust rail pressure from 34 psi idle/cruise to 44 psi WOT...............I like to give it a final burst at say 50-60 psi and then let it run to liquid exhaustion. This is done at idle in park so 11 ounces takes awhile 11 x 28= ~~ 308 grams and idle is only <0.5 grams per second.................. 616 seconds...................9-10-11 minutes.?

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Infinitiguy19
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Hey mike How exactly do i chaeck the injectors when the whole injector assembly is removed?

Do i remoev the injector from the harness or test it while still connected to the harness??

I think I will keep the injectors and sell just the harness and the rails because I see how bad E10 is.

I screwING HATE TODAYS GASSOLINE.

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ppastos wrote:Hey mike How exactly do i chaeck the injectors when the whole injector assembly is removed?
You've already got the assembled fuel rail off the engine so there's no need to remove the fuel injectors from the rail. Unclip the connectors from all 8 FI and measure ohms resistance directly on the 2 pins of each injector with your voltmeter.

The resistance is measured through the harness connector whilst (got that from one of the Aussies) it's assembled on the engine because you can only measure 3 of them (#1, #2, #8) directly with the plenum installed.

Measuring the injector directly on its pins also takes the resistance of the harness wires out of the total and gives a truer reading. If you're selling the FI harness it's a good idea to measure the continuity and resistance of all 8 wires to make sure it's a good part.

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ppastos wrote:Did the person that did the BG injector flush on your 1990 black Q45 do this as stated by Q45Tech:

With a rail flush you need to be able to adjust rail pressure from 34 psi idle/cruise to 44 psi WOT...............I like to give it a final burst at say 50-60 psi and then let it run to liquid exhaustion. This is done at idle in park so 11 ounces takes awhile 11 x 28= ~~ 308 grams and idle is only <0.5 grams per second.................. 616 seconds...................9-10-11 minutes.?
Oops. Missed this post and your question.

I was a bad NICOnaut and did not witness the tech completing the flush.

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Infinitiguy19
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OK I took a video some time ago of the engine while running with the intake cover off (Because I liked the sound ).

But If you cane hear that tick noise in the crappy video can you tell me if its normal? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weyBEMxROsE

I will take another one in a quiter place with the intake on tomorrow.

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Infinitiguy19
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OK in case that one wasn't good enough here is one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ug72wbOqKsQ

And here are the gauges: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ug72wbOqKsQ

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Fuel injector cleaners just clean the filter screens and pintles. They cannot CURE the resistance changes which are the result of ALCOHOL swelling of the injector housing plastic.

Old fashioned MTBE, ETBE and modern Ethanol are all alcohols. Even Isoheet is isopropyl alcohol.

The problem is not the 11/2560 ounces [4 tenths of a single percent] of a fuel additive but the 10% alcohol now used to STRETCH the gasoline supply.

20 times more alcohol is what does them in.

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Infinitiguy19
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N/A
Last edited by Infinitiguy19 on Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Paul Wall wrote:So your saying buy using ISO-heet (Alcohol) we are slowly ruining our injectors slowly?

Is there any gas stations in MA or NH where they don't use E10?
Not in MA!

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Infinitiguy19
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I wonder if they have E10 in Florida, cause if not that will be one more reason to move.

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Talk like that will get you arrested in the new United Socialist States of North America.

Congress manadated E10 everywhere and soon E20 will be used to destroy what old cars they missed.

Cannot sell new cars if the old ones still run!


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Infinitiguy19
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Canada here I come.


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