i figured I should post my story so poeple know what they are getting into with these guys.

Cliff Notes:
Bought a 90mm long block from Mazworx, Car had several issues with headgasket sealing so I took the car from TN to FL to have the car repaired and tuned. After getting the car returned to me it began leaking less then a week from getting it back, returned the motor and it was repaired again by Mazworx. After getting the car back together and checking the A/F the motor had some type of issue and dropped a valve destroying the motor on low boost.

Story:
Two Years ago I had Mark from Mazworx build me a 90mm bore SR20 Long block with all the fixings. I had a lot of issues with headgasket sealing when running the motor over 500rwhp. I discussed with mark and I bought the required parts to do a head gasket change out and check to make sure everything was in good health.
After getting everything back together in December of 2010 we put the car on the dyno and checked to make sure the tune was on and that the car didn't have any issues. It promptly ate a gasket on the dyno. At that point in speaking with Mark and reviewing the tune he had determined it was a tune issue and I agreed to bring the entire car to him to make it right from Nashville.
Mark completed the work and gave me a good price on making repairs to the vehicle and getting it tuned. After holding on to the car to ensure it was right we drove down to Orlando to trailer the car back up in April of this last year.
Two weeks after getting the car back the car started to show issues with the head gasket again. Mark explained that he had never had these kinds of issues with his 90mm motors and after taking some time to determine next steps he agreed to take the motor back after I removed it and re-work it again to go through it top to bottom. He also decided to add a step deck to ensure we would get enough clamp load. I sent the motor back at end of March.
I received the motor and finally got the car back together in August. We put it on the dyno and checked everything out and the car seemed to be finally correct. Doing a few pulls we saw 660rwhp at 31psi on my Hybrid Dynamics kit with a GT38586 HTA. I put the car up and patiently waited till next weekend. When I drove the car next I did a quick pull onto the freeway in 3rd and the motor promptly went dead at 7500 rpm.
We found that the motor completely killed it self with nothing left of cylinder #1. It killed the head and the block. I discussed with Mazworx and a local shop and it was determined that the supertech valve had dropped and killed the motor. Figuring that I had established myself as a good customer that Mark would work with me to build a new motor with out charging me full price for a whole new motor (10K!!! again). After being ignored for a while Mark decided he wasn't going to do anything for me.

I'm very disappointed in the outcome, I tired every venue to come to a good conclusion but it seems if you buy anything from Mazworx you better hope it was right cause if not you are hosed.
-James

Who's idea was it to use the SuperTech valves? This is pretty common with Hondas as well when using SuperTechs.

Also, was a compression test done on the engine before it dropped the valve? If it was seated correctly, and it wasn't the actual valve's fault, the only thing really left is a severe over-rev. (Possibly before the highway pull.)

Im guessing that head had valve float. One of the most common steps that is skipped when building a head is properly shimming the valve spring itself to the proper spring pressure. Your clearance between the rocker arm to cam could be perfect but doesn't mean a damn thing if the valve spring is shimmed too loose. I can't name one company that does this step when building a motor. That's why when I build motors, I do all of thr assembly myself.

compactfean wrote:Im guessing that head had valve float. One of the most common steps that is skipped when building a head is properly shimming the valve spring itself to the proper spring pressure. Your clearance between the rocker arm to cam could be perfect but doesn't mean a damn thing if the valve spring is shimmed too loose. I can't name one company that does this step when building a motor. That's why when I build motors, I do all of thr assembly myself.

Well I thought the shimming would not be needed if he is still using the hydraulic lifters. If he's still is using the hydo's they should self adjust for valve lash. If he is using solid lifters then he would have to measure and shim and check the lash. Assuming the shims are bigger then 1.5cm IIRC.

As far as the HG issue what HG's are you using? Did you use the copper spray I know it seems weird to with the amount of time and money in you motor but i use the spray no matter what as it seems to fill all the microscopic gaps.

Also were you re tightening the head studs after a few miles on the road?

^ you are referring to cam clearance and shimming accordingly. I am talking about adjusting the loaded spring pressure. Completely different.

So, He worked with you on the numerous times that you killed the motor and on the final time he said it's your own fault? Seems reasonable. He has no idea how you drove it or how bad you abused it. Also, While I've never really dealt with Mazworx, I find it hard to believe that they would use such a cheap product as Supertech on their $10k motor

PyR0NiAk wrote:Who's idea was it to use the SuperTech valves? This is pretty common with Hondas as well when using SuperTechs.

Also, was a compression test done on the engine before it dropped the valve? If it was seated correctly, and it wasn't the actual valve's fault, the only thing really left is a severe over-rev. (Possibly before the highway pull.)

Ok i just read the comment about supertech, why are these bad? bc i just did a full 3 angle valve job, ported and polished head, super tech 1mm over size valve on intake and exh side of my redtop sr head. Are u all saying that these aren't good valves to use?

In my opinion, they are good valves but on a sr head is kinda over kill because the stock valves are pretty bad a**. Valve float isn't caused by the valve, its caused by the spring, or the preset loaded spring tension. Id say the only flaw in an sr head that has to be changed is the exhaust valve guides (k-liners are the s***!) And the fact that the stock cams are pretty restrictive. Did you bump the compression to compensate for the larger valves?

compactfean wrote:In my opinion, they are good valves but on a sr head is kinda over kill because the stock valves are pretty bad a**. Valve float isn't caused by the valve, its caused by the spring, or the preset loaded spring tension. Id say the only flaw in an sr head that has to be changed is the exhaust valve guides (k-liners are the s***!) And the fact that the stock cams are pretty restrictive. Did you bump the compression to compensate for the larger valves?

Well i have brian crower valve springs and retainers, i also bought new valve guides and new rocker arms and rocker arm stoppers. I did the 1mm oversize valves bc i got them at the same price as stock. To me that's a good reason to go larger. My bottom end is already built and larger turbo will be added. Does anyone here have the supertech over size valve in the built motors?

I don't have oversized in my car but I've done oversized in other motors and always seems to ” lower the compression” per say. I haven't had the need to switch you stainless steel valves yet but if/when I do I won't go oversized.

maverick06xx wrote:

compactfean wrote:In my opinion, they are good valves but on a sr head is kinda over kill because the stock valves are pretty bad a**. Valve float isn't caused by the valve, its caused by the spring, or the preset loaded spring tension. Id say the only flaw in an sr head that has to be changed is the exhaust valve guides (k-liners are the s***!) And the fact that the stock cams are pretty restrictive. Did you bump the compression to compensate for the larger valves?

Well i have brian crower valve springs and retainers, i also bought new valve guides and new rocker arms and rocker arm stoppers. I did the 1mm oversize valves bc i got them at the same price as stock. To me that's a good reason to go larger. My bottom end is already built and larger turbo will be added. Does anyone here have the supertech over size valve in the built motors?

Most SR guys don't run them because there are a lot of reputable companies that make good valves available for us. An SR isn't exactly a budget motor compared to most cars where you see these ran. They're typically in the cheaply built Hondas and such. You can find a s*** ton of complaints about Super Techs on any Honda forum.

Most SR guys don't run them because there are a lot of reputable companies that make good valves available for us. An SR isn't exactly a budget motor compared to most cars where you see these ran. They're typically in the cheaply built Hondas and such. You can find a s*** ton of complaints about Super Techs on any Honda forum.[/quote]

PyR0NiAk, Should i honestly be worried about this setup? i dont have any more money to redo this head...

I really doubt you'll have any issues. Just keep it in mind if you do anymore head work in the future. Considering this dude had numerous issues, something tells me he beat the hell out of it, and I wouldn't doubt a prior over-rev.

Good, yea i want to be pretty firm on my rpms not to go over 7500 i'm thinking. Although i do have the brian crower step 3 cams 272\272 but not sure if it will make power to 8k.

My JWT S4s (268) are slaughtering tires in 3rd all of the way to my shift point at 7500... (stock steelies) I'm also running a GT3071R, though. She definitely wants higher revs.... I'm not ballsy enough to go over 7.5 without solid lifters, though.

wow, i don't have the balls to do it either, i would get solid lifters but i already have my head built. I would love a gt3076r turbo but i'm going to run the Turbonetics delta atp48 with the a/r .63 for now.

I really don't think it is Mazworx's fault. Making over 660rwhp at 31psi can have all kinds of risks especially on a 4 cylinder. An over rev is possible in this situation causing valve float. I have super tech valve guides with the stock valves and haven't had any problems. I chose to keep the valves strictly because the stock valves are already bada$$ as stated. You can't expect a 4 cylinder engine to last at that power level. There is a guy that is running 40psi on his SR20 making 700hp but he doesn't run it like that all the time.