Between a rock and a hard place...

[Indy_Travis]

To make a long story short, my father in law bought me a 1994 Infiniti q45a without me asking for it. He bought it because I needed a car and no one would finance me, and I agreed to pay him back for it. It seemed to run ok, but I noticed that I was only getting around 10 mpg on the highway. Recently, the car has started acting like it's trying to flood itself out. If I let the engine go down to idle, it will randomly just die. However, if I just put the car in neutral at the intersection and keep the rpms between 1500 and 2k then it's ok. Occassionally it will start sputtering a bit like it's choking on itself, but if I give it some gas it revs up and sounds like a tiger ready to jump out of it's cage and tear up the streets, lol. I've noticed that this doesn't seem to be as bad in the cold mornings, but as soon as the engine starts warming up it gets worse. It seems to me like it's just running eally rich on the gas/air mixture. Is there a sensor that controls this? I"ve read several threads about bad injectors and fuel pumps with low pressure, but the symptoms that they refer to don't really seem to fit. Any suggestions that anyone could give me would be greatly appreciatted

[Rex]

Search for MAF & MAF cleaning. That may not solve your problem, but my guess is it will help.

[goody90q45]

Search for MAF & MAF cleaning. That may not solve your problem, but my guess is it will help.

If your air filter is dirty or you have an oiled air filter you MAF sensor is probably dirty. Clean it up as Rex suggested. Also look at the connector and clean any corrosion off it and the MAF pins. Tighten the connector pins and lube with dielectric grease. If there's corrosion on the MAF connector then other connectors of similar design will have it and need the same cleaning- CAS, fuel injectors, EGR solenoids, TPS sensor come to mind.



Is the check engine light (CEL) on? Have you pulled codes?

[Indy_Travis]

Well, I went up to the local autozone to get some MAF cleaner, some cleaner for the connector and some dielectric grease and as soon as I pulled into the parking spot it died on me. I got out and wiggled the connection at the MAF and it strarted back up. I went ahead and got what I was looking for, but when I went out to the car with my stuff I noticed that the CEL had come on. I went ahead and cleaned the connection and unplugged the positive on the battery to reset the computer, hoping that that would get rid of the CEL. It did.....for about 10 seconds :+(. So now the CEL is back on. I made it home to try to figure out how to read the code since the guy at autozone said that the equipment they had would not read the "old-type ?OD1? connections" He also told me that I don't have a '94, apparently I have a '93 after looking at the sticker in the door frame. (wtf!?!) Anyhow. I'm off to search the forum for the article on reading the codes...I imagine it will be sticky-ed near the top.

On a side note, the engine just really sounds like it's not hitting on all cylinders...I'm hoping that the issue is not with the coils, but hopefully the code will tell me something.

[goody90q45]

If your Q has a grill it's a 94, if a badge (4" dia) it's a 93. There's nothing wrong with your coils, leave them alone.

If wiggling the connector helped the engine then the cleaning I described earlier will help a lot. The pins should look like the middle one in the pic when you're done.

Autozone was correct that they don't read OBD1 codes. You'll have to do it yourself. The ECU is located behind the passenger side footwell. Look for a 1" square carpet flap covering a 10mm bolt holding on the carpeted trim cover. With the cover removed you'll need to unbolt the connector, unbolt the ECU and remove it, and then plug it back in and leave it on the floorboard to pull codes. Might as well leave it there until you get through your issues. Injector codes may be next.

[Indy_Travis]

Ok, so it looks like all the injector pins are giving me the correct ohm rating except for 4, which is at 20ohms and 5, which would not register any ohms at all. I gotta tell you...I'm here in Indianapolis and I just started a new job. My family is still down in AL till I can get them moved up here next month. I have my tool boxes with me, but I'm not really sure whether or not this car is worth the effort to get running. Anyone with experience replacing these3 fuelo injectors have any suggestions? I have SOME tools with me (good wrnch set, good socket set, screwdriviers, vise grips, duct tape, etc), but I'm temporarily renting a room from a guy up here and I don't have much area to work, and not much extra cash......lol, the other day I was so frustrated I was hoping that someone would hit me and the insurance would total it out. If I could sell it for the $2300 that we have in it that would be nice too...

[elwesso]

I am from Anderson (just a bit north on I69), and next time I'm in town Id be glad to help you with the car, at least take a look at it...

If cleaning the MAF and connector did not help you may need a new MAF. Do what the others have said by checking the codes so at least we know what the computer thinks is wrong..

Honestly, what your describing is not very big as far as getting it going back properly. Once these cars are well sorted, you're good.. If the trans shifts good and its in overall good shape, I would think its a keeper... You probably have 2 bad injectors which will definitely make the car run bad, kind of how your describing. Couple with a MAF related issue and you result in a barely driveable vehicle...

BTW most 1994 cars were built in 1993, so thats why he said you have a 1993.. Usually nissan starts their M/Y builds in 07 of the previous year.. So 1994 models started in 07/93 and went till about 3/94

[BadQ45t]

So what is the verdict, do you have a grill or not, as he mentioned above it is probably a 94. Unfortunately, these cars when they are not well kept up become huge problems for subsequent owners. You really need to find a good local mechanic that can figure out the issues, you should try to dump it if your not willing to spend 1500-200 over the next year to get it into reliable running shape. Trust me, a 94' Camry that was abused wouldn't be much better. $2500 bucks doesn't get a good former top-line luxo car, it buys you issues and problems from previous owners.

That coupled with the adjustable shocks that you haven't said anything about yet, I'd be pretty scared.

[Indy_Travis]

My day so far.

Woke up with a positive attitude, determined to strive to figure out the car and make it better.

Researched data and saw references to MAF, which seemed to match up with my sympotoms vaguely

Pulled the MAF connection, noticed that it already had a little dielectric grease left, but that the connectors in the clip looked more like the ones on the end than in the middle of the pic

Took a couple small awls and adjusted the connectors to more closely resemble the one in the middle of the pic above.

Plugged everything back together, fired it up and drove off. Everything seemed to be going well. Drove around for about 20 minutes and noticed that it was starting to sputter again. "No problem" he says to himself, "I'll go ahead and go to autozone and get the stuff to clean it up properly.

The engine sputters more and more, the closere that I get to Autozone. By the time I get there, the engine dies with just enough momentum left to slide into the parking spot.

I step inside Autozone to get the stuff need to clean the MAF.

Back outside, I try to start the car again, and the CEL has come on. Step inside to ask the guy behind the counter if he can read the codes for me. "No can do....car's too old and our thingy won't fit your OBD1 connection" s***.

Clean the MAF connector and unplug the battery for a minute to try to get rid of the CEL. 10 Seconds after starting the car, the CEL is back on. s***.

Drive it back home, sputtering all the way. Time for more research. Hmmm....injectors? Could Be. Mopre research...."ohhhhh...that's how you pull the codes....sounds like a PITA.

It was

After breaking off the plastic panel below the glove box I finally that damned bolt. Panel pulled and ECM set up so I can pull the codes. I try to pull the codes. But wait! By unplugging the ECM in the process of getting it out it has lost the codes. Code 55. s***.

Ok, no biggy...just drive it around the block and the CEL will come back on. Try to start it. Theh car will turn over, but won't fire off. wtf!?! Ok, be reasonable here....maybe when I reconnected the ECM one of the pins just didn't get seated well ebnough. No big deal, just disconnect it, inspect it and reconnect it.

This is when I made the mistake that told me I was going soft...that it had been too long since I had worked on my own vehicles. I got out of the car to go around to the other side to disconnect and remount the ECM plug, and noticed that the passenger side door was locked...and the driver side as well...I had just locked the keys, my wallet and the cell phone in the car, in a town I barely know, that has barely anyone I know in it, when I am on an extremely limited budget.

At this point rationality overrides the need for venting, cursing and setting the mf-er on fire. There is only one option. Break a window.

After breaking the small window in the passenger side rear door, I get back in, re-seat the ECM plug, fire it up and 10 seconds later, we have a CEL. Error codes are 21 (Ignition signal circuit), 34 (knock sensor circuit), and 51 (Injector Circuit).

I'm currently trying to decide whether to fix it or set it on fire, and suggestions (parts options, suggested accelerants, preferred brand of lighter fluid, etc.) would be greatly appreciated.

If you need to reach me, please feel free to post a reply. It'll take me a while to walk to the liqour store and back so I'll check back later. I'm not normally a drinker, but I think a few stiff drinks are the only thing that will keep this POS from getting deep-fried at 3am this morning.

[elwesso]

Well that certainly was mildly amusing to read at your expense .

I suggest reading a bit on q45.org and if you want you can give me a call my number is on the website