Best way to flush out Brake and Power Steering Fluid?

[steelcity]

I'm not going to pay the dealership $200 to flush that stuff.

[Ilya]

Use a turkey baster. Suck some out (don't let air into the system), pour new in. Drive around/bleed system...repeat. It'll take a little while, but you'll save $150 or so. It's a slowish process, but eventually you'll be left with 95% new fluid. I need to do this too.

Brake is the easier one...just bleed the brakes and pour new fluid into the reservoir as needed until you see new fluid coming out of the bleeders. On my 99 Maxima I changed to a Super Blue Racing fluid which made it much easier cause it went from reddish/dark to blue...easy to see. And had a higher boiling point. I'll likely put the same stuff in the M.

[Sstupid]

I have the Motive Brake Bleeder. It's a pressurized brake bleeding system. You just pour new fluid into the Motive jug, attach the fitting to your master cylinder canister, and pump it up to pressure, then one-by-one, crack the bleeders on each wheel until clear fluid comes out. Before I bought the Motive device, I would just pay the $200 bucks. It really isn't worth the trouble. For the M, you have to buy their universal fitting. They don't make a designated fitting for it.

[steelcity]

Sounds like a plan. I'll do the power steering first. I have an empty windex bottle. I'll pull out the little gun and dip the hose into thw power steering fluid and squirt all that nasty stough back into the windex bottle.

[kmiles]

If you have an air compressor, this one worked great for me: Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder w/ 4 Master Cylinder Adapters 90 - 120 PSI

They also have other one man bleeder systems.

[Larz]

Every mechanic will tell you it is important to keep the power steering fluid in good condition. They will warn you that today's cars PS systems use higher pressure and smaller internal parts which make clean fluid a necessity to avoid failure of the pump, seals, and rack. However, if you ask 10 specialists when the fluid should be changed, you will get at least 8 different guidelines. They differ from a long as every 4-5 years to as often as every 30,000 miles. The only thing you can be sure of is that changing it too often is better than letting it go too long without change. When you consider that doing it yourself costs about the same as or less than an oil / filter change while replacing parts will costs 100's of dollars, it really doesn't matter to me if I end up chnaging fluid too often. I barely add about 8,000 miles per year so I have decided NOT to use mileage as the interval. I go by time and change mine every two years because fluids don't just break down from mileage, but also from age. I have NO doubt that every two years is a bit overkill and probably not needed, but it's such a cheap project I do it anyway.

Here is how I do it:
I buy a cheap siphon pump from Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Siphon-pump-kit ... 43dc029137
and use a large plastic bottle with a screw cap to dispose of the fluid.
With the engine cold, remove the reservoir cap and place one end of the siphon inside the reservoir and the other inside to large plastic bottle. Pump all the fluid out of the reservoir.
Start the car momentarily and turn the steering wheel to the left and right as far it will turn. Do that twice and shut off the engine. The reservoir will fill up with old fluid again.
Siphon all the fluid from the reservoir again. That will remove a significant amount of fluid without making the system run dry.
Now, fill the reservoir slowly with Nissan Power steering fluid that you will find on Ebay, Amazon, etc. I bought 3 bottles and saved the extra for the next change.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Nissan- ... fe&vxp=mtr
Fill it very slowly to allow air to escape from the PS hose as you fill the tank. Fill to the COLD LINE on the outside of the tank.
Once again, start the engine and turn the steering wheel all the way left and right twice. The fluid will be taken into the system and air will be expelled into the reservoir. Shut the engine off.
Refill the reservoir again to the COLD line on the outside of the tank. Replace the cap, drive the car for a few miles, and let it sit until it completely cools. In the morning, or after the engine is completely cool again, check the reservoir and fill it (if needed) to the COLD full line. Inspect the PS fluid and you will notice it is reddish instead of brown, and it is more slick than the older fluid as well.
This does NOT completely flush the system, but doing this every two years will surely prevent the PS system from running on old, dirty fluid. If you want to get closer to completely changing out all the fluid, just follow the above procedure again until you are satisfied all the old fluid is gone, but make sure you have enough new fluid to replace what you siphon.