Best way to fix a large oil pan hole?

[Jesda]

So, according to my dad, the previous owner of this 1978 Toyota truck had a hole in the oil pan which was plugged and patched with who knows what. A couple nights ago whatever was used to patch that hole had fallen out, leaving the truck stranded and a mess of oil behind it.

I don't think motor seized. The oil pressure light came on, I tried restarting it a couple times, and got just enough power to coast over a hill and roll into a gas station. I called AAA and it was towed back to the house.

This hole looks as if someone bored it out with a big drill bit, stuck a bolt in it, and sealed the rest with JB Weld.

Thoughts?

I'd like to avoid the task of replacing the oil pan.

[szh]

I'd like to avoid the task of replacing the oil pan.

It is the safest way to proceed though ...

Z

[Razi]

You could probably get an exhaust shop to weld a patch over it.

[themadscientist]

I was going to suggest JB Weld and a bolt, but I see another redneck has preceded me.

Without taking the pan off you could try brazing a piece of sheet metal over the hole. Brazing uses less heat that welding, but you still run a serious risk of starting a fire.

That pan really needs to come off to properly repair it.

[Bubba1]

So, according to my dad, the previous owner of this 1978 Toyota truck had a hole in the oil pan which was plugged and patched with who knows what. A couple nights ago whatever was used to patch that hole had fallen out, leaving the truck stranded and a mess of oil behind it.

I don't think motor seized. The oil pressure light came on, I tried restarting it a couple times, and got just enough power to coast over a hill and roll into a gas station. I called AAA and it was towed back to the house.

This hole looks as if someone bored it out with a big drill bit, stuck a bolt in it, and sealed the rest with JB Weld.

Thoughts?

I'd like to avoid the task of replacing the oil pans.

I'd price out a replacement pan (new or used), and would only consider the cheapie redneck repair route if he was planning to sell it immediately. Oil pans are not normally a big ticket item.

[frapjap]

Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 3960
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500° F

Mechanics -- you can use J-B WELD with confidence. It is designed for safe, reliable, permanent repairs in engine compartments and heated environments up to 500° F. It's strong as steel and impervious to water, gasoline, chemicals, and acids. Working with J-B WELD is quick, easy, and convenient -- and saves you time, work, and money!

Not recommended for use on manifolds, exhaust systems, and other engine components which normally operate at temperatures above 500° F.
http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php/

Worth a try for S&G. Tell us if it works and how well.

[Heavy]

empty beer can, self tapping sheetmetal screws, rtv, and a full beer can <-you drink this one when done

[Rex]

I would try JB Weld for that repair. The operating temps for the pan shouldn't see anything close to the 500 degree range.

[Bubba1]

I would try JB Weld for that repair. The operating temps for the pan shouldn't see anything close to the 500 degree range.

Am I the only one to notice that Jesda mentioned the repair that failed appeared to be with the same stuff you and Ray are recommending he try?

[Rex]

I would try JB Weld for that repair. The operating temps for the pan shouldn't see anything close to the 500 degree range.

Am I the only one to notice that Jesda mentioned the repair that failed appeared to be with the same stuff you and Ray are recommending he try?

It's possible the previous guy used JB to patch it, but I don't think they know for sure. Assuming they did, how long did the patch last?

[szh]

I would try JB Weld for that repair. The operating temps for the pan shouldn't see anything close to the 500 degree range.

Am I the only one to notice that Jesda mentioned the repair that failed appeared to be with the same stuff you and Ray are recommending he try?

Nope, I agree with you ... Some holes may be too large to use JB-Weld here. Even if a small amount of external patch material/metal is used to cover the hole.

Which is why I said that replacing the pan is safest. Can't be too expensive to find one in a junk yard, no?

Z

[frapjap]

I would try JB Weld for that repair. The operating temps for the pan shouldn't see anything close to the 500 degree range.

Am I the only one to notice that Jesda mentioned the repair that failed appeared to be with the same stuff you and Ray are recommending he try?

I would say that if it held that long, its worth doing again.
Besides, Jesda can probably engineer it better and use a bolt with a washer and goop the weld on the underside of the washer and then slather it over the top/perimiter for good measure.
Given its position, a piece of metal could work using the same method.

The oil pan may be the right way to fix the truck, but c'mon; its a '78 Toyota truck. It can handle anything!

[Bubba1]

It's possible the previous guy used JB to patch it, but I don't think they know for sure. Assuming they did, how long did the patch last?

Evidently long enough so that Jesda's dad can't go after for the seller for what is generally considered an improper repair.

[300ZXttZMAN]

Jesda, you should seriously just replace it or just have a shop replace it. Its better to just fix the problem the correct way rather than getting stranded again.

[Rex]

It's possible the previous guy used JB to patch it, but I don't think they know for sure. Assuming they did, how long did the patch last?

Evidently long enough so that Jesda's dad can't go after for the seller for what is generally considered an improper repair.

Obviously, replacing the oil pan is the best solution. I was just suggesting a "patch" similar to the one that was in place and potentially lasting longer (using bolt, adequately prepping surface, using stronger "patch" material, etc).

[Jesda]

It's possible the previous guy used JB to patch it, but I don't think they know for sure. Assuming they did, how long did the patch last?

Evidently long enough so that Jesda's dad can't go after for the seller for what is generally considered an improper repair.

Well, he has owned he truck for about ten years. That said, he only drives it a hundred or so miles a year.

Usually I drive to Washington when I visit so I drive around in my own car. This time, I think I've put as many miles on it in two weeks doing wedding-related errands as it has accumulated in the last five years.

[Jesda]

Some say the key to a good JB Weld job is cleaning the surface with brake parts cleaner, drying it off, and sanding lightly.

True/False?

[Razi]

A clean surface is key.
Or else the JB Weld will just fall off.

[Bubba1]

Well, he has owned he truck for about ten years. That said, he only drives it a hundred or so miles a year.

Ah , so it's possible this repair failed after about 1000 miles or so? Call me crazy but that's not exactly a ringing endorsement to do the same repair on the same spot.

[alms24sebring]

Just drive a bolt through it with teflon tape. Eh, really I would just replace the whole thing, then you wont have to worry about it. It looks easy enough to do.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Use a metal patch. Tack-weld it into place and JB weld around the perimeter. The tacks will be more than enough to hold the patch, but won't heat everything up enough to engulf your vehicle, and the JB weld will seal it. Hell, you could even goop RTV around the whole thing after that if you wanted to as well.

[Jesda]

I can drive 100 miles to pick up a $25 oil pan at a wrecking yard in Idaho. Gas would be $35. And after spending a few hours reading Toyotanation and Yotatech, the pan replacement job looks reasonably easy since its a basic 2WD truck with no front diff.


The challenge now is in the puzzle, to see if I can seal it with something clever in case I run into this kind of emergency on another vehicle in the future.


Having said all that, I think I found a possible solution:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 256832_0_0_

Universal 1/2 inch oil drain plug screw in style made of rubber and steel. Expands when screwed in to form a tight seal. For temporary use only. For oil pans with stripped threads.
Expands from 1/2 inch to 5/8"
Easy hand screw in, no tools needed
Fits most vehicles using 1/2 inch OE plugs
Check for any leaks after installation


You shove it in there and turn the wing nut until it expands the rubber and forces a seal.






Can't hurt to try it tomorrow and see what happens.

[Bubba1]

Ha! I remember seeing those in old JCWHitney catalogs. Very cheap but they note it's for temporary use. Seems all you're doing is wasting money on cheapie, temporary fixes, when the correct, permanent fix is inexpensive. Remind me to never to buy a car from you.

[OriginalWheelman]

You shove it in there and turn the wing nut until it expands the rubber and forces a seal.

That's what she said?

[Jesda]

Ha! I remember seeing those in old JCWHitney catalogs. Very cheap but they note it's for temporary use. Seems all you're doing is wasting money on cheapie, temporary fixes, when the correct, permanent fix is inexpensive.

If replacing the oil pan on someone else's beater truck in 100-degree weather is your idea of fun, I won't stop you from flying out to Washington.

When the clutch master cylinder went out last week, Dad was willing to discard it entirely. He doesn't see the point in putting his time and effort into something he doesn't enjoy driving.

Personally, I think he'd be better off paying someone to haul away his yard waste and putting the Toyota on Craigslist. The house and the land are about to go up for sale and once he retires [soon] and moves to a condo, he won't need it at all. I suspect some of the nicer Arizona condo associations would frown on parking it in the complex. :P



He'd much rather dote over his showroom-condition W124 E-class which I got the chance to drive last week. Review forthcoming.

[Jesda]

First I tried the stubby one on the left.


The instructions say to lube just the tip (lol). The wing nut clicks into place as you tighten it. Unfortunately, this one was a little bit too small. OReilly didnt have the 5/8 size in stock.


I then tried the universal one with the large pivoting wing nut that goes inside the pan and it worked quite well. The rubber sealed perfectly over the hole. Topped off the oil and ran it -- no leaks.



Unfortunately when you remove these, its hard not to lose the wingnut inside, so you have to fish it out with a magnet stick. I think it would be a good idea for everyone to keep one in the glove box for emergencies. Next time, he intends to get the 5/8" one for a more secure fit.


I again told Dad he should replace the pan, but he'd rather put a new one of these plugs in at each oil change. So be it. I suspect it'll only be driven ten miles this year after I fly home. For the rest of my week in town, I'm borrowing my friend's red 1987 Celica convertible. Sweet little car. Pics coming.

[frapjap]

Sweet! THATS how an old Toyota should be fixed!

I hope the Celica does the same thing so you can patch it, too.

Your WA friends love their old cars.

[Jesda]

The lack of rust here is amazing.

Back in December I saw a 60-year-old Mercury parking at a pet store. It wasn't treated as a collectible or babied. The paint was faded, it was covered in dents, and it looked as if it had been driven daily (but well-maintained) since the Eisenhower era.


I just took the Celica for a ride down some country roads and couldn't believe how much fun it was for a 115hp FWD car. "OH WHAT A FEELING!" indeed.

By contrast, my dad's '09 Camry Hybrid which I drove a week earlier was a lifeless (but quiet) lump. He only bought it to use as a company car so he could make money from the mileage reimbursements.

[alms24sebring]

Great idea, I wish I thought of that. They work as great temp jobs too, they just have to be tight. New used oil pan for less than $100 and an easy job is well worth it. Dont forget the pan gasket.