best pistons

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
scott
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what in your opinion are the best forged pistons to use on a kat project. also do you really need forged rods for 300-350whp, plus maybe a little nitrous later. i've noticed that most people bore there motor 20 over. is this a good idea since anything over .20 could cause block failure or overheating. are total seal rings the best to use or are the rings that come with the piston sets good enough for high boost plus nitrous?


ADAMHU
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i got ross to make me some custom flat tops and overbored the motor 40 thou

Nathan
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Ross is great, I haven't heard of a problem with them yet and the machining is top notch. Where did you hear that anything over .020 over could cause block failure or overheating? The FSM allows for a 1mm overbore which is a shade over .040. Hence, there's nothing wrong with a .020 overbore. I would stay away from the total seals, I've heard some unpleasantness about them. The rings that come with your pistons are the ones I would use. Forged rods aren't NECESSARY for 300-350rwhp, but in my opinion they cant hurt anything.

HIGHLIFE1
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what did you hear that was bad about the total seal rings?

J

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WDRacing
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Total seal rings work fantastic when installed properly!!! I've seen them handle 30lbs of boost with 150 shot of N2O. No cracks...

andrave
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I've heard that total seal rings are different than traditional rings in their installation, ring gaps, etc, and if not installed properly they go boom pretty quick. but I've seen them used on some pretty quick race cars so I'll have to assume if put in right they are pretty damn good.

scott
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so your saying that i dont need forged pistons and rods for 300-350whp plus say 75-100 shot of nitrous. i'll probably get the pistons since i need a rebuild anyway, but the rods would save alot of money.

TrunkMonkey
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rods are not necessary.

-demetrius

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fiznat
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nuff said. GOD I love showin off that pic! haha

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klattr1
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Ross's for sure!

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huguetpj
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WDRacing wrote:Total seal rings work fantastic when installed properly!!!


Yes they do. ;)

Boostedka
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Ross, are great. I have them in my built Ka. No Probs:ylsuper

andrave
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where is the dude who has ross for 300?

Nathan
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WDRacing wrote:Total seal rings work fantastic when installed properly!!!


Come to think of it, I did hear they needed the cylinders to be honed differently for proper use. It's likely the horror stories I've heard were the product of uneducated owners/their machine shops :(

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klattr1
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andrave wrote:where is the dude who has ross for 300?
i dont know anywhere that has them for $300 brand new but ka24de.com has them for like $489. Thats the cheapest I found them.Check the sponsor on the left side of the page.

andrave
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http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....stons

I was referring to devious (I just did a search and found the thread I was talking about.)you around, devious? send me an email I need to talk pistons.

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deviousKA
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i can get them for that price. They use an 22mm pin vs 21mm of ka. Ka rods can easily be modified to fit or aftermarket ones used (carrillo ka rod uses 22mm .866" iirc). I can get ross forged in many different compression ratios, or other brands such as Probe SRS for similar prices

I upgrade to 22mm piston pin on all my personal engines, stock rods or not.

IvoryJ30t
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dont forget about arias. awesome, but more expensive.

andrave
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doesn't sound like a big deal with the pins, I just need some lower compression pistons for turbo use. Are they stock bore, or available in whatever I want?what are they off of originally?

andrave
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anyway I added you to my aim list, either hit me up on there or send me an email, [email protected]I really would like stock bore 8.5:1 (maybe 9:1) ross pistons, but a small overbore would be ok (.20 over or whatever).hit me back.

BomexS13
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Are there any pistons that doesnt require OB?

andrave
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yeah I know ross makes a stock bore one because I've seen it before. raceeng.com has some ka24de pistons of various compressions/overbores.

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klattr1
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BomexS13 wrote:Are there any pistons that doesnt require OB?
any piston company will make anything you want. Custom built pistons to "user specs" are obviously more expensive than when a dealer buys an a$$load of pistons all in the same spec and sells them off cheaper.To custom make Ross pistons, its gonna cost close to $625 with rings. Most places sell pistons with overbore anyways. Its just a better idea to overbore some if you are thinking about the idea of having a stronger motor(having forged pistons in the first place). Boring out a block is really not expensive at all. The only really expensive parts are assembly and add ons like porting and polishing the head.

Chingon
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while on the subject...has anyone boosted w/forged pistons but stock compression....I think i'd be interesting. Do they even make forged on this compression ratio/bore/stroke?

Chingon
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oh ****...it was being discussed 3 posts above me...

andrave
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look at our cars, the ka24de was last available in the 240 in 98... so anyone selling pistons is figuring if you are building your motor up its probably a 100k+ motor (as most seem to be). And if thats the case, a bore and hone would do your motor good. cylinder get ovaled out over time...and boring is cheap, that is true, but its also true that machine shops find their way to make it expensive. Drop the engine off with forged pistons, they will prolly hot tank it, magna flux it, align it, bore it, hone it, button it up, replace the crank bearings, they make have to cut the crank, balance the assembly. Its hard to get it done on a tight budget.

02_silver_wagon
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I understand what most of the machining process are, but what are "magna flux it, align it, button it up, they make have to cut the crank"

I don't get what these 4 things are. Could you explain. Thank you.

Nathan
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What he means is...magnaflux = method of checking for cracks etc.align it = line hone = make sure the main crank journals are all straight, in a line and the right size.button it up = assemblecut the crank = make sure the crank is the correct size for the main crank journals and the bearings. Sometimes, if a crank gets damaged or something, it must be "cut" or ground down to a smaller diameter on the journals so that oversized (thicker) bearings can be used.

andrave
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sorry, I didn't think about the terms being used... Anyway I'm not saying that your engine NEEDS any or all of those things. I'm just saying that if you walk into a machine shop and give them the general "here are my pistons I'm kinda new to this, here is a blank check" deal, thats probably what you are going to get. And that might not be a bad thing. Its good thing to check your block/head for cracks. its defintely good to have it all aligned, and if you don't know what you are doing, having the machine shop assemble your rotating assembly could help (and most don't charge much for that anyway). And if they assemble it they can balance it, and its been discussed on here before, and I would recommend having your rotating assembly balanced. Hopefully your crank won't need cut, unless you have spun a bearing or have excess wear it should be fine. Also be aware that I talked to a couple machine shops here and most of them have switched to where they magnaflux everything they do when it gets in and when it gets done, that way they let the customer know about any cracks before they do the work. Customers could take in a cracked block and get work done and then when it showed up later (after the work was done.. machining tends to bring out little things like that) they would claim that the shop did something to cause the damage. So its covering the shops ***, but they still charge you for it.


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