Best pads for Akebono setup? (low dust/noise)

[KongzTT M45]

My main concern is low dust! and quiet pads..

I got the Centric posi-quiet semi-metallic up front and ceramic in the rear.. it is what came with my setup I bought from Coz.

From my understanding .. these were low dust pads.. I just installed them and have less than 50 miles on them with my new akebono 4 wheel, stoptech drilled/slotted rotors. Its either the pads/rotors breaking (after proper bedding procedure etc) or its juust how the pads are in terms of dust.. there is quite a bit more than whatever pads I had on my stock brake setup (not sure what the previous owner put on there)

I am not very impressed with the bite and grab from these pads either.. but I believe I still have a little air in my lines.. so it could be that..

What do you guys recommend? I want very low dust pad that is quiet!

I searched on other forums and it looks that Akebono ACT pads are very dust free.

Thanks!
Kong

[DaSerb]

Why don't you just go with Wearever Platinums. I have them on my stock setup. Dusting is really minimal and are also quiet.

I am not sure if it depends on a setup.

[White-Rush]

I'm not a brake expert, but it sounds like you may want to pony up to a more premium pad. From looking at their website, the centric's are their cheapest pad. Now I know people will probably say it's not always about the cost, but in this case, it probably is.

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart ... 9.252.4.21

I have experience with the Hawk ceramic pads. $$$, but they work and keep the dust and noise down.

Also, i have tried the Project Mu for a very short stint (sold car). Again, $$$, but they worked similar to the Hawk. (i'm not sure if they are the same compound that i used before, though).

Maybe you should try the Stoptech pads. I think that's what they are selling with their kits. Either way, GL homie and sorry that you may have to shell out more cash.

[KongzTT M45]

Thanks for the reply man..

Its not really about the money to me.. I just can't stand brake dust like this..

Its hard enough as it is to clean my wheel due to their design as it is..

When I do a google search.. it looks like the Akebono euro or ProACT are the best choices..

Ive had hawks before.. the dust wasn't the best with those either.

I wish I knew what brand was on my stock calipers.. they had virtually no dust and stop much better than these centrics IMO.

Also.. what I don't get is..

I do a search.. and some people say there is "NO DUST" with these pads.. and some say NO dust with hawks.. but I know there is definitley a good amout of dust from both!

[White-Rush]

give the one's that you currently have a few hundred more miles. hopefully they will get better. I know it's a PITA, but it may save you some money if they settle down on the dust /noise or what ever.

But it sounds like you have a little OCD like me, and that damn brake dust is probably driving you nuts already...

[CPJ LB]

I must agree...the brake dust - excessive - would drive me crazy

I've run 2 sets of Akenbono ProAct pads and I can't complain...good grab, quiet & little to no dust... I'm also running them with cross drill/slotted rotors (StopTech cryo treated)...

I'd keep your current pads on just for little longer - but if the braking begins to suck, then swap 'em for the Akebonos I drive various styles and the Akebonos are secure with whatever you throw at 'em...

[AZhitman]

I'm going to do my best to put this nicely and not piss anyone off....

Here's the problem - Brake pads are one of the most misunderstood components on a car, and there's a lot of "missing the boat" in this thread.

Low-dust and quiet are the domain of non-performance brake pads. That's like saying "I want my tires to last 70K miles and be really quiet." Go buy a Prius. Performance car = performance tires. The same holds true for brake pads.

Quiet, low-dust pads will NOT have the "bite" you're looking for. They might be great on Grandma's Grand Marquis, but they've got no place on a high-horsepower performance sports sedan.

Would you give up 50 horsepower to save gas? Would you give up 50 feet of stopping distance to keep brake dust off your wheels? If so, please, please don't get behind me on the road.

Kong, you bought a high-dollar brake setup with stoptech drilled/slotted rotors, and you put Wal-Mart pads on it. You didn't gain anything, AND you still need to finish bleeding the brakes, brother!

FWIW, the Akebono pads are Nissan's OEM pads for "sporty" applications. If you want a REAL sweet pad setup (I've tried several - 14 cars in the fleet and another 30 over the past decade), look at the Ferodo DS2500 series (or 2500DS). Great grab, decent wear, and the dust washes right off if you're not lazy.

Go buy some Wheel Wax, treat your wheels a couple times a year, rinse them off with some soap and water once a week, and no more crying

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I've actually used the Armor All wheel protectant spray on stuff before with pretty good results. Brake dust just hoses right off.

That reminds me... I need to pick up another can and re-do the fleet. Its been a while.

[White-Rush]

I'm going to do my best to put this nicely and not piss anyone off....

no harm, no foul.... We are all adults here..

thanks for the information, and hopefully others will benefit from it as well.

[mexillis]

If you go to the brake section on myg37 you might have better input than google. I agree with AZ, good info to consider.

[KongzTT M45]

I'm going to do my best to put this nicely and not piss anyone off....

Here's the problem - Brake pads are one of the most misunderstood components on a car, and there's a lot of "missing the boat" in this thread.

Low-dust and quiet are the domain of non-performance brake pads. That's like saying "I want my tires to last 70K miles and be really quiet." Go buy a Prius. Performance car = performance tires. The same holds true for brake pads.

Quiet, low-dust pads will NOT have the "bite" you're looking for. They might be great on Grandma's Grand Marquis, but they've got no place on a high-horsepower performance sports sedan.

Would you give up 50 horsepower to save gas? Would you give up 50 feet of stopping distance to keep brake dust off your wheels? If so, please, please don't get behind me on the road.

Kong, you bought a high-dollar brake setup with stoptech drilled/slotted rotors, and you put Wal-Mart pads on it. You didn't gain anything, AND you still need to finish bleeding the brakes, brother!

FWIW, the Akebono pads are Nissan's OEM pads for "sporty" applications. If you want a REAL sweet pad setup (I've tried several - 14 cars in the fleet and another 30 over the past decade), look at the Ferodo DS2500 series (or 2500DS). Great grab, decent wear, and the dust washes right off if you're not lazy.

Go buy some Wheel Wax, treat your wheels a couple times a year, rinse them off with some soap and water once a week, and no more crying

Haha.. Understood completley

However; The pads I had on my stock calipers were the best of both worlds.. very good bite, barely any dust at all.. and quiet.. I just wish I knew which pads they were!

I drove my buddies g37 sport and tested his brakes out.. so atleast I know I definitely still have some air in the lines.. His were so much more responsive than mine and I have the SS lines. His pedal was much more stiff right off the bat than mine..

I got the pads because it was what was included with Coz's kit.. I asked him for low dust/quiet.. and thats what he sent.

Ive ran some pretty aggressive pads on my twinturbo Z's.. fun.. but still... cleaning wheels all the time sucks a**

I'll give it some more time.. and also re-do the bleeding. I am just pretty surpised I didn't get it all out..

I used my Motive Power bleeder and went through 2 bottles (big) of fluid, tapped the calipers with rubber mallet as well.. but I guess there is always room for some hidden air..

Is there any procedure to get the air from the ABS module/unit? I know my 300zx Twinturbos.. there is a bleeder right at the unit itself.

I just picked up a LongAcre bleeding bottles to do both nipples at the same time on each caliper.. I also picked up a Vacula just incase this time. (yes bleed screws are facing up on all calipers)

Been a mechanic for years and years.. built engines, suspensions, welder etc.. however; we all have our days
'
Also,

Anyone see a caliper relocation bracket for us to us a larger rotor than the stock 14"? Just curious.. maybe like a 15" rotor?

[mexillis]

I had some air pockets when I installed mine too. Idk what I did wrong but I ended up doing it old school without a bleeder and got rid of them. As for bigger rotors and brackets I haven't seen any on the market so I assume if you go that route it has to be custom. I know the calipers on this M came from an AMG

[KongzTT M45]

I have seen AMG front calipers with brackets to bolt onto G35 hubs..

I would like to keep the akebono if possible.. mainly because of pride of me JUST buying them.. lol gotta let em' live for a while

I believe the Akebono front rotors are 28mm thick.. The ONLY rotor that I know of that is 15" .. and 28mm is a porsche brembo REAR rotor.. I could re-drill the hubs on the rotors but I am not sure how their re ebrake setup is and how the hub is designed... probably have to get custom hats made.. eff that. I believe brembo rings themselves are like $1000.. lol

Got any more pics of the car above? almost looks photoshopped..

[mexillis]

Why would you want a bigger rotor but not a bigger caliper? I think the rotora bbk for our car might come with direct bolt on 2pc rotors that are 15" up front. Here's some more pictures of that M.

[White-Rush]

ooohhhhh weee, She bad!!

[AZhitman]

Hotness. That car is sick.

However (and here I go being the voice of reason / buzzkill), all that extra rotor / caliper means jack with those rubber band tires and no suspension travel.

A $40K brake system will INCREASE stopping distances over stock if you don't upgrade the tires.

Why? Rotational mass / unsprung weight.

And by upgrading tires, I mean sticky, ultra-high-performance summer tires with a low treadwear number and a high traction rating... and additional width doesn't hurt, either. Also, you need proper alignment (not that cambered-out hard-parking clownery), and proper suspension travel for effective weight transfer.

Otherwise, you may as well buy those cheesy plastic caliper covers and call it good.

[AZhitman]

Why would you want a bigger rotor but not a bigger caliper?

It's actually a good upgrade. At some point, you really run into the law of diminishing returns with clamping force (of the calipers). Extra pistons don't mean anything if you can actuate ABS right off the bat.

A bigger rotor moves the braking surface OUT from the hub. Simple leverage. It's the same concept as using a longer breaker bar to bust loose a stubborn nut. You can't remove your lugnuts with a 6" ratchet, but put a 3' breaker bar on it and a 7-year-old girl could do it.

SO, if you already have all the clamping force you need (and your OEM calipers are great), then going to a bigger rotor multiplies, exponentially, the effectiveness OF that clamping force. However, you add more weight, which subtracts from your braking effectiveness. Overall, you'll see improvement - but not 100%.

Hope that helps.

p.s. I'm NOT an expert, but I've seen a ton of mistakes (and made a ton of mistakes) on my street cars and my cars prepped for track use.

[jdjack68]

I'm getting ready to do brakes on my 2007 M35 and I've been reading a lot in the forum about pads, rotors, BBK's, etc. I would like to know what size rotor I can go up to over stock? I'm looking at Hawk and Powerstop. Any recommendations?