Best OEM Shocks and Spring Set up

[slybydesignq45t]

I have a two part question. I have been reading on here a lot about coil overs, shocks, springs. Most of the information I gathered based on reading has been for lowering the car. So I will ask my question in two parts, and thank you for forgiving my inexperience on this topic.

1) OEM - Can I buy OEM shocks and springs as a set and which are the best brand for OEM.

2) 1" Drop. If I decided since I am going to be buying shocks and springs would it be bad for the car to do a 1" drop and which brand will accomplish this with out going threw a bunch of hoops? I am looking for the most inexpensive and simplest way to accomplish this with out going over board.

I primarily would like to purchase both shocks and springs as a unit. I would prefer OEM but if the price is about the same a 1" drop wouldn't be bad. I just don't want to mess up the suspension by dropping so if dropping it will do that then I will stay far away from it. Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

[Rex]

FYI, I'm not aware of anyone that sells them as as pre-assembled complete unit.

[maxnix]

You want Tokico Blues and OEM springs and rubber, unless you want to spend a whole lot more money.

Best performance gain is from Primo tires on Primo wheels, assuming suspenion and brakes are up to OEM as new and you have installed the rear a model anti-sway bar.

[slybydesignq45t]

Thanks rex.

[slybydesignq45t]

You want Tokico Blues and OEM springs and rubber, unless you want to spend a whole lot more money.

Best performance gain is from Primo tires on Primo wheels, assuming suspenion and brakes are up to OEM as new and you have installed the rear a model anti-sway bar.

No No, LOL. Less is better. I am going to look them up on the net. OK, Tokico Blues and OEM Springs. What brand of springs do you suggest. When looking at the suspension everything looked pretty good. We looked at all the bushings. I recently changed the control arm. Maxnix, I thought the T model came with the sway bar already, or is that the A-model. When I joined some one was selling a sway bar for the front of the car. Do I need both, 1 under the hood and another down under in the back? I must be honest I don't like how this car handles in rain at all, but I do about 45 to 55 pending condition when raining.

[maxnix]

With a t model, you only need the a model bar, and new rubber for the bushings and links.

Keep your OEM springs.

You need to upgrade your tires.

[slybydesignq45t]

Honestly, I think your right. I stopped at the red light at the highway entrance today and for the first time, coming out of a dead stop and at very light acceleration the car fishtailed and corrected it self and I was just accelerating very lightly. I took a look at my tires which are a couple of months old an they looked good. They where brand new when I purchased the car, but I think they are summer tires and are not treaded specifically for rain. I don't have the money to change them now, but its raining and will be for the next couple of days. I did however upgraded to the Botch Icon style wiper blades which cost me $40 dollars. I'm happy I did this on Saturday along with the previously mentioned maintenance.

[maxnix]

Summer high performance tires usually have better wet weather performance than their "all season" counterparts within the same brand.

Read a lot of the tests at http://www.tirerack.com .

[Q45tech]

Assumming the wet road interface temperature is above 60F that might be true. Below 60F the all seasons might be better, all depends on the friction coeff vs temperature of the compound.

Summer tires are optimized from 150F > 90F interface temp.

[slybydesignq45t]

Thanks Max, I hadn't been on tire rack for over a year, the new features are awesome. I now know what I want to do. I may just end up going threw them for new wheels. The prices are amazing.

[qship96]

The Michelin Pilot Exaltos A/S have taken me through Maryland winter snowstorms and hot summer rains and everything in-between perfectly for the last 60,000 miles of driving- If you need either dedicated winter and summer tires in a similar climate, you are either driving in conditions when you shouldnt be{ in winter},or driving the battleship like a Lotus{ in summer}

[slybydesignq45t]

LOL, your right. I may change the tires in January right before our 2 month rain season. The thing that I have to keep in mind is it doesn't rain much here in San Diego, but when it does driving conditions are at its worst.

[Rex]

I think I have some pictures of a IPQ G50 on Blues + Eibachs sitting on a set of 18" BBS ... the wheels are for sale, BTW .

Found them (Click for larger versions)

[slybydesignq45t]

Wow Rex thanks

Whats the drop on with that set up?. I have to be honest the G50 looks great on BBS's, but they are extremely expensive. I won't even ask what the seller is looking for, I am sure its expensive. I also saw some nice rims on TireRack for prices more aligned with my budget (BROKE )...LOLOLOL all jokes aside that looks great. That is exactly how my car looks minus the rims and badges.

[slybydesignq45t]

I looked online and for new shocks the TB's where going for an average of $72.00 on some sights. I also saw VIPCoilover suspensions going for $2000+ wow. I would be happy with some nice TB's and Springs, I couldn't find anything with good prices for the Eibach Springs. Anybody know of any deals that might becoming up in Jan or Feb/Mar....?

[maxnix]

I have to be honest the G50 looks great on BBS's, but they are extremely expensive.

Cheap wheels are mostly anchors looking for a failure mode.

Be sure and do your reading because if you drop, you will have to replace a lot of other componennts to get it into alignment.

[Q45tech]

Speaking of wheels in July 2000 I balanced a set of oem wheels and marked the inside with inner and outer requirements: 7 inner 5 outer last week the same wheel was tested again 8 inner and 7 grams outer.

After 8 years and 5 months and ~~ 120,000 miles the OEM 1994 wheel had only changed by 2 grams worst case!Probably a world record for quality, strength, and workmanship.

Try that on any aftermarket wheel made by any company.

[slybydesignq45t]

Agreed. I honestly love the way my 15's look. I know some aftermarkets would be sweet, but like I said there is almost nothing like taking a vintage and bringing it to OEM. For now I am having fun looking, but money will not be leaving my pockets for rims, when there is other things I must do first. Trust me, I would have purchased a set of rims and tires long time ago, but I feel the need to maintain the car is more important at the moment.

[Rex]

Whats the drop on with that set up?

To be honest, I'm not sure what the actual drop is, as I've never seen a G50 with a new stock suspension. My "best guess" is an inch to an inch and a half.

[SpartanAir]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but on the subject of suspension, has anyone ran R32 GTR suspension in their Q45?

I'm looking at a President that's running R*SR rear struts from a BNR32...

If so, any issues?

[Kiven422]

Gosh, I had to log in just to give you my 2 bits

I recommend getting Tokico shocks. They are cost effective and can handle a more universal range of height.

The stock shocks are built for the stock ride height... A 1" drop will cause them to wear prematurely.

The A' bar is a nice add-on but you sacrifice control in the rain. V8 torque + rain x sway bar = extra sensitive mix.

Rex - I thought my pearl looked fine but now that I see yours I realize how much better it can look! I mean pictures cannot spoil the details but it is considerably cleaner than mine.

[Q45tech]

As long as you stick with oem spring ratio, even the A bar [20mm] is not a problem in the rain - assumming the VLSD is working.It only gets hairy when you increase rear stiffness with springs like Eibach which are designed to decrease understeer significantly after a inch or 2 of body roll.But then only idiots floor it {downshift} in a cold rainy curve.

[slybydesignq45t]

Thanks for that info and judging from your sig you have a comparable set up. So I guess the TB's with EB springs is the way to go.

[maxnix]

Thanks for that info and judging from your sig you have a comparable set up. So I guess the TB's with EB springs is the way to go.

Just read what Q45tech and Wes had to do to get the geometry to work correctly.

If I ever change springs, they will be stock height but stiffer, probably with custom adapted Bilstein shocks.

[Q45tech]

The Q has an extreme front camber gain curve designed to match the body roll, when you change the roll rate significantly* you screw up the design.

* Eibachs only stifffen the front springs by 15% so not significant since the ultra stiff front bar is 50% [progressive from 10%> 50% in 3" of body roll] of peak stiffness due to bushing design.

When stiffen front springs you run out of sway bar choices 29 or 28mm [<13%].

[slybydesignq45t]

Ok, so I guess all I need to do is keep my OEM springs which are fine and just do the Bilstein Shocks or TB's. I guess I need the front sway bar too. Max, I should of snatched them when they were going for $50...LOL any idea where they are selling today?

Q45Tech are you a scientist or some kind of Nobel Peace Prize Genius who decided to give back to the little people. Your extremely smart.