Best Motor oil and Weight to use
Best Motor oil and Weight to use
Whats up folks. I have a ka24e rebuilt with I/H/E. The motor is pretty strong for a 12valve and i am pretty happy with the way it drives. I use 10w 40 Castrol gtx. Whats a good motor oil to use and whats the best weight for my motor. I see people using 15w 50 and 10w 30. I live in fresno, cali. Summer reaches around 96-106 and winter is around 50-61. Any advice on what i should use like Brands and weights. ohh and i was wondering should i switch to synthetic or stick to the regular stuff. The motor is freshly rebuilt and i have only used regular oil for 400 miles.
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Smebbin'd'240
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 5:57 pm
It really all depends on what you decide. Rule of thumb is the more mileage u put on your motor the heaiver the oil should be! And a definate not to use Synthetic with motors that have an excess of 100,000+ miles. The synthetic is so thin it will slip through the imperfections in the cylinder walls, this is usually the common problem with the synthetic with higher mileage motors!
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96_S14_SE
- Posts: 973
- Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 11:10 am
- Car: 96 S14 SE - 05 VW GTI 1.8t - 89 S13 coupe "gold on brown"
khmaikid wrote:And a definate not to use Synthetic with motors that have an excess of 100,000+ miles. The synthetic is so thin it will slip through the imperfections in the cylinder walls, this is usually the common problem with the synthetic with higher mileage motors!
Really??? Up untill a few months ago I was running 5w-30 and 10w-30 mobil 1 super syn, and my car had about 82k beat into it by me since 28k, or 110k total. I didnt have any real problems or a drop of consumption... I did notice a minor bit of caking in the head though...
But since I auto-x cross as much as I can and generally beat on my car (really just having fun everyday, but others would call it beating on it) daily, I went to a 15w-50 mobil 1 super syn.
Ive been running that for the last few oil changes now (121k on her
) and feel more confident with its lubrication abilities. What minor hit in performance and efficiency is minor compaired to the peace of mind and protection it offers.Ive only run mobil 1 synthetics for every lubricant in my car, since I got it with 28k on her back in 11-99'...
But there are numerous detailed and insightfull oil threads on the general section....
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Structure240sx
- Posts: 5615
- Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 5:04 pm
yea i jsut put in mobil 1 super syn 15w-50 today and i have 121k on it and jsut got my tubro kit done yesterday. my engine is in great shape, i did a leakdown test on it. this is like sayin u cant turbo a high milage engine it depends on the conditon of the engine. mine is seeing up to 10 psi right now
20W-50? What are you running, a race car?
Amsoil....
I work at NAPA and we sell that ****, and everyone one says it's the best, they even had something on the website saying its better then Mobil 1.
Not to mention my boss lives by the ****, I don't believe he'd use anything else.
They have 6 month/7500 mile oil changes, and I believe up to 1 year oil change intervals on some types - but I wouldn't be very comfortable with that.
Amsoil....
I work at NAPA and we sell that ****, and everyone one says it's the best, they even had something on the website saying its better then Mobil 1.
Not to mention my boss lives by the ****, I don't believe he'd use anything else.
They have 6 month/7500 mile oil changes, and I believe up to 1 year oil change intervals on some types - but I wouldn't be very comfortable with that.
For those still clinging to thin oils like xw-30 or even xw-20 here is a baelfish translation from an oil site I hang out on:
A discussion about BMW oils:
quote:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I cannot use this (thin, ed) oil for my customers (at least not if I do not want to destroy their engines). 80% of all customers have more current engines than model year '94. In these engines the oil pump is no longer located in the sump, but in the "Steuerdeckel" or in the raised position. Since an oil pump has no gaskets, it is never completely tight, and it doesn't have to be tight. When using thicker oil, the oil remains in the pump. The "Sichelräder" [sickle gears] are nicely wet with oil and, due to the thickness of the oil, they are immediately to sucks the oil in.
thin oil will flow out of the pump over night, the oil pump gears are nearly oil-free after 24 hours. The suction power of the pump reduces is reduced, In addition, the crankshaft and oil pressure channels emptied themselves and ran dry over night. This does not happen with thicker oil. The further advantages of the heavy oils are also high temperature stability, higher "Druckaufnahme" [pressure reception], even with much cold weather startups, the oil will not be dangerously diluted by fuel, the motor will run quieter (mechanical noises). Even after not running the motor for prolonged times, all parts are still well oiled (with the light oils the cylinder walls are already drying), oil consumption is low, and wear on reciprocating and rotary parts is low, too.
Disadvantages of those thicker oils are that they do not release additonal horsepower (by more bearing air), that the cold start cranking speed is slower, that fuel consumption is higher (but savings are equalized by the increased oil consumption of the light oils).
Whatever points you make, I take the thick oil, you may take the thin ones. Heavy oils have proven in inummerable cars that they are up to delivering long engine life and high mileage. That the new oils [thin/Long Life oils] are suited to nothing, is reflected in the 29 engines with lubrication problems or complete loss of the motor starting from model year '96 and under 100k km. For me that is not coincidence. ALL have cold tracks in the cylinders (indications of dry sockets with the cold starts), all had busted oil pumps (with scoring throughout), all had Fresspuren [scored marks?] into the connecting rode bearings. 25 of those engines failed due to the scored connecting rod bearings. All of those motors ahd sludge (shows overload of the oil), and I won't use that kind of oil. Why has BMW approved 15W-40 for the V8, m43, m51, m21, m52, m70 , and all M-motors, except the new M3-5? Of course only up to the model year since when only Long Life oil (the name alone makes me want to drop in the dirt!) have been used. And why does a manufacturer such as Motull, which is always at the forefront of racing, produce 4 different 15W-X oils but only one of the viscosities? They must be crazy! Or have they understood? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fred...
A discussion about BMW oils:
quote:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I cannot use this (thin, ed) oil for my customers (at least not if I do not want to destroy their engines). 80% of all customers have more current engines than model year '94. In these engines the oil pump is no longer located in the sump, but in the "Steuerdeckel" or in the raised position. Since an oil pump has no gaskets, it is never completely tight, and it doesn't have to be tight. When using thicker oil, the oil remains in the pump. The "Sichelräder" [sickle gears] are nicely wet with oil and, due to the thickness of the oil, they are immediately to sucks the oil in.
thin oil will flow out of the pump over night, the oil pump gears are nearly oil-free after 24 hours. The suction power of the pump reduces is reduced, In addition, the crankshaft and oil pressure channels emptied themselves and ran dry over night. This does not happen with thicker oil. The further advantages of the heavy oils are also high temperature stability, higher "Druckaufnahme" [pressure reception], even with much cold weather startups, the oil will not be dangerously diluted by fuel, the motor will run quieter (mechanical noises). Even after not running the motor for prolonged times, all parts are still well oiled (with the light oils the cylinder walls are already drying), oil consumption is low, and wear on reciprocating and rotary parts is low, too.
Disadvantages of those thicker oils are that they do not release additonal horsepower (by more bearing air), that the cold start cranking speed is slower, that fuel consumption is higher (but savings are equalized by the increased oil consumption of the light oils).
Whatever points you make, I take the thick oil, you may take the thin ones. Heavy oils have proven in inummerable cars that they are up to delivering long engine life and high mileage. That the new oils [thin/Long Life oils] are suited to nothing, is reflected in the 29 engines with lubrication problems or complete loss of the motor starting from model year '96 and under 100k km. For me that is not coincidence. ALL have cold tracks in the cylinders (indications of dry sockets with the cold starts), all had busted oil pumps (with scoring throughout), all had Fresspuren [scored marks?] into the connecting rode bearings. 25 of those engines failed due to the scored connecting rod bearings. All of those motors ahd sludge (shows overload of the oil), and I won't use that kind of oil. Why has BMW approved 15W-40 for the V8, m43, m51, m21, m52, m70 , and all M-motors, except the new M3-5? Of course only up to the model year since when only Long Life oil (the name alone makes me want to drop in the dirt!) have been used. And why does a manufacturer such as Motull, which is always at the forefront of racing, produce 4 different 15W-X oils but only one of the viscosities? They must be crazy! Or have they understood? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fred...