Best estimate for some front end work

[Dosmastr]

Hi All,

2011 rogue SV 170k miles
Drive train seems good.

I need a front brake job and an axle. Probably both front axles honestly.

The car lurches when I press or release the brakes. Even at a stop it's pretty noticeable. Has done it for a while but doesn't seem to be getting worse. I think someone on here said it could be the subframe bushings. Mechanic says he can get those and press them in rather than a whole new subframe.
It drives straight, and nothing odd except the lurch happens.

But I'm hoping that a lot of the labor to do the lower control arms and or subframe bushings is already under the removal of the axles and brakes.
Chatgpt is saying 1300 to 2k without the subframe bushings....

The must haves are the brakes and the drivers axle.
driver's side brakes never started squealing just went to metal on metal. I have the parts for the brake job already and 1qt of genuine cvt fluid. Have .75qt from when I did the cvt dump 3.5 years ago which is probably no good anymore right?

The maybes in addition to above are both lower control arms and the subframe bushings.

I would've just done the brakes myself but my 200ftlbs impact gun couldn't budge the caliper bolts and the breaker bar was flexing the bushing in the picture before I was really really trying. If I broke that I'd need to tow it to the mechanic. That the knuckle needs to be chiseled apart to do the axle spooks me too. I've done Honda civic axles but those aren't hard.

The car is running well but I don't know if it's worth all the extra cost.... But I don't want anything unsafe....

Your thoughts are solicited!

[VStar650CL]

The driver's axle on a gen1 Rogue isn't terribly hard. It's single-piece and the only rust to deal with is the hub. The passenger side is two-piece and the carrier bearing makes it a complete motherf#cker. You need to bust the ball joint and separate the hub to do either side, so there's definitely some labor savings doing the LCA's along with the axles. You need those LCA's badly, that poor bushing is gone-gone-gone.

Vis the subframe bushings, I hope the guy knows what he's getting into. Usually you need to peel the front ones out with a muffler-cutter bit in an air chisel. You're usually better off shimming those and turning them into hard mounts. There's a thread in here someplace that shows how to do that.

[Dosmastr]

Do you think the lurching is the subframe or the LCA?

Are the subframe being loose a safety concern?

I noticed it's worse when RELEASING the brake pedal after a stop. Though sometimes felt if I have to hit them hard too.
Edit: mechanic says that's control arm.

[VStar650CL]

I agree with your mechanic, that sounds more like LCA's than the sub-frame. What happens is that the bushings allow the whole arm to rock backward when traveling, but after a stop or reversing, the inertia of the body rocks them forward. Then when you take off they clunk into a backward orientation again, and Lurch is in the building. It's very hard on your tires, too. Get 'em fixed.

I found the link to that sub-frame hack. Depending how shot yours are, this can get a little more life out of them without dropping the frame and using explosives on the old bushings.