Best Clutch/Flywheel

[Bigvinnie]

Well you have a bent clutch fork when it is seperated and moves around and away from the slave cylinder. You can't really tell when symptoms start to occur untill you are completely grinding gears. You should be able to press on the clutch pedal without feeling any resistance. It usually happens from fast hard shifting, and slamming in the clutch, instead of slowly depressing. But then again slowly depressing the clutch won't help you in the 1/4mile either, so get ready for the clutch forks, you will be replacing them.I've realized it is better to change out the fork, everytime you get a new clutch kit.

[mmm240]

i bought my 240 a month ago (93 se coupe) it came with a stage 3 clutch specialties clutch and a fidanza flywheel (the guy was planning on going ka-t but he came across a 300z). the engagement is WOW right there when you want it, it took a little while to learn how to either not make the car shake (cause the clutch wanted out), or make the tires squeel out of first, but it is an AWESOME setup. i drive it everyday in the city and i am never tired of it. the guy i bought it from says the clutch can handle 400whp (something you may want to consider if you're going ka-t), i have smoked it only once and i kicked myself hard for it, but it still engages where it did when i purchased it.i am also new to owning a stick shift vehicle, i used to work at the emission testing place so i can drive most anything, but driving stick shift everyday on your own vehicle is a little different, what i am saying is if i can do it you should be able to manage just fine with your experienceoh and i can chirp forthand the respose is AMAZING on a stock motor good luck with your purchase

[Deadrodent]

I've got the ACT Xtreme Pressure plate and the ACT Street/Strip disc. I didn't go for the six puck or four puck ceramic because this is a daily driven street car...not a race car with 350hp. It grabs like a mofo but still has bearable pedal feel...it has a nice rebound to it. stock clutches feel dead, soft, and there's no rebound whatsoever. I definitely recommend this setup for the performance oriented driver who needs a smooth, bearable pedal feel.

[D-UNIT]

I had a ClutchMasters stage III ( Kevlar ) clutch on my NA KA. I could "chirp" fourth gear at 60 mph on the freeway. Heck I could even chirp fifth ( when I mis-shifted from second haha ). I bought the car with it and let me say there wasn't a day that I didn't have some type of Exibition of Speed if you know what I mean. I even drag raced every other weekend w/ nossss ( hopefully at least 12 runs ) With no slippage whatsoever. That clutch lasted me two long years of abuse. *tear*

[Aworkinprogress]

I have a 1991 Nissan 240sx and gained much acceleration through an RPS stage1 clutch kit and a fidanza aluminum fly wheel. Im talkin almost a full 3 tenths of a second off et. yet I also have a ka24de engine.

[Aworkinprogress]

Don't forget to break in your new clutch for the first few trips. which means lay off of the throttle for a while.

[Julio Bro!]

Hi to you all and Merry Christmas:

There's a possibility of replacing my clutch and I'm evaluating. PDM recommends ACT and Centerforce, but I don't hear much about Centerforce...why?

Also, I've seen there's a Nismo clutch replacement, but I don't hear anything about it either...is it a bad choice? I have the Nismo suspension on my '93 240SX SE and it's been great.

Regarding flywheels, everyone speaks wonders of the aluminum types, but is there any catch...shouldn't there be somekind of difference or compromise when replacing the OEM one? See, with the suspension I traded some comfort (ride becomes a bit harsh) for performance, so what do you trade when using a lightweight flywheel?

[DjPantsSpecR]

ACT and Centerforce are both very good clutches. there are few finer clutches that could be recommended in a reasonable price range. Centerforce clutches are very nice, dont worry

i wish i had your suspension... instead of nothing...

anywho, lightwheel flywheels have a lower moment of inertia than the stock flywheels. engineers do all they can to move as much weight to the outside as possible, but there is only so much you can do.

lower moment of intertia means it will accelerate (the flywheel) much easier, but it will take more work to keep it going at a constant velocity. the tendency of the flywheel is to drop revs, and quickly.

you'll gain revs and lose revs very easily. also ive heard there is a small amount of low end loss, but an obvious top end gain.

more stalling when feathering the clutch and such, maybe rev matching, double clutching, or heel and toeing might be affected, but you will obviously learn to live with the change and you wont have it any other way....

if you have 300 bones ebay has your fidanza, do it up

[Julio Bro!]

Hmmm DjPantsSpecR, which finer clutches would you recommend.

What I'm looking for is a bump in performance without sacrificing much comfort...like with the Nismo suspension. The car became slightly lower and stiffer than OEM, but it's the least harsh of all the suspensions around.

So, what abouth the Nismo clutch assembly?

[DjPantsSpecR]

then you just want something that is sprung, maybe a six puck, but most likely a full faced clutch. the pressure plate is going to make or break the harshness of the clutch. any clutch rated in the 250 ft/lbs area is going to be comparable to stock, even close at 300ft/lbs

just dont get a race pressure plate and dont bypass the damper box and you probably wont notice a difference

i'm waiting on my XTD stage 3 right now, ultra cheap six puck sprung, "HD race" pressure plate. very mixed reviews on it, but its a really cheap product. ive heard some that the pressure plate isnt as strong as it claims and it doesnt feel harsh at all, im a lil disappointed.

JWT ACT Centerforce Clutchnet Exedy Daikin Ogura, all nice clutches

[Julio Bro!]

Any word on NISMO, SPEC, and RPS clutches?

I saw SPEC in an on-line store, there is Stage 1 (organic disc) and Stage 2 (kevlar); I know kevlar is great for break pads, how would it be for a clutch?
Modified by Julio Bro! at 9:20 PM 12/2/2005

[DjPantsSpecR]

the ****ty XTD clutch i just bought claims to have 30% more holding power than kevlar... but thats probably not true

Nismo is guarenteed to have a quality product, although ive never heard anything about their clutch. i imagine they just outsource to exedy or daikin, but none-the-less when you buy a nismo part you know it was either designed or selected by nissan engineers, and thats saying quite a bit

i've heard little on SPEC, so i cant really make an opinion, but RPS is also a very high quality clutch company

[Bigvinnie]

Nismo is guarenteed to have a quality product, although ive never heard anything about their clutch. i imagine they just outsource to exedy or daikin

Not saying your wrong DJ pant's, but Daiken and Exedy are strictly to different manufacturers. Daiken imports the Exedy clutch disc, and makes the clutch throw out assembly, exedy manufactures the clutch disc. Technically if NISMO does use an EXEDY clutch more than likely the whole throw out assembly will be by daiken as well. It wouldn't be one or the other IMO.

[DjPantsSpecR]

ah good call, absolutely correct, although i did know they were two different manufacturers, i just didnt know how they were involved with nissan

the only thing you can really assume about nismo is its going to be a big compromising clutch. It probably wont have too great a holding power, but it wont be ludicrously stiff either. i imagine the life expectency is close to stock as well

of course i made that all up, but based on Nismo's other products it should only be a slight upgrade/comprimise from stock, which is probably what you're looking for.

[Julio Bro!]

At ebay there is a NISMO assembly (clutch, plate, bearing) for $209, nice. There are also Exedy and and F1 kits for less than a $100...although those seem too good. Centerforce kits are under $200.

Is F1 OK?

[Julio Bro!]

Well, I'm editing and answering my own questions. The clutch kit I thought was NISMO is really from eClutchmasters (different from Clutchmasters). They indicate their performance clutches conform to NISMO specifications.

Stage 1 uses an organic disc and Stage 2 uses a 6 puck ceramic blend. Online reviews seem OK and the Christmas discounted price for the Stage 2 was $280 for plate, disc, and throw bearing. Mr. Jason says that if break-in is right, the clutch should be good for daily driving as well as track. Also claims that durability is par to OEM, we'll see. You can check them at eBay and eclutchmasters.com, call them and ask for Jason...nice guy.

Now, I'm looking for the Christmas deal on the NISMO Slave Cylinder and Pivot. Midway is checking prices; did you know Dan is no longer with them? That's a shame, he was a nice guy too. The new guy is Mike and NICO discounts are still on.
Modified by Julio Bro! at 9:33 PM 12/7/2005

[Julio Bro!]

I'm ready to take the car to the shop for the clutch job. During this time I found out about a very small detail that helped the ill clutch work a bit better.

There's a small bumper attached to the clutch pedal, which pushes on a sensor switch when the pedal is on normal position (unpressed). It's an L shape hard rubber thing which has a few millimeters of thickness. These millimeters apparently do something on the way the master cylinder works, probably something that deals with pressure.

This bumper toasted and crumble, like all other bumpers around the pedals that I've replaced. Before replacing this one, I had to double clutch sometimes to engage a gear, now I don't. Mind you I had to adjust the cylinder's shaft for the clutch to work and for now it's so, so. This is why I included a new master cylinder for the job.

Anyway, those of you with minor clutch problems, should look into this bumper. Without it the pedal hits noisily onto the sensor and the clutch becomes difficult to engage.

You may order it at Midway, the part number is 46513; it's cheap and makes a lot of difference in clutch engagement. It's also a bit hard to install; use some dishwashing liquid to lubricate the "connector" and pliers to carefully squeeze the part in.