best break in method

[KEMP]

wht do you guys reommend for breaking in my fresh built ca

[Fleemer]

breaking it it by going easy on it lol

there is so many methods.

one is don't run any boost. have your wastegate open

second is oil changes at 500km, 1000km and 1500km (or just 1500km)

don't break 3k rpm before 500 km, don't break 5k until 1000km then 7 at 1500km

But then again everything is different. Depends also on how your rebuild was done

new bearing? new rings? new valves?

cheers.

[sjbsuperman1425]

zerothread?id=340869

search function is amazing. let us no how it goes. GL!

[meminto]

There are so many different methods out there..

Every build is different and everyone has an opinion on the best method..

My advice, talk to the engineer that performed most of the work and ask what their preferred method is..

I would have preferred to run my motor in at the engineers on an engine dyno..

However a chassis dyno will be the next best thing in my personal opinion..

[mbmbmb23]

Let me summarize the links provided in this thread. Use non synthetic oil, start the car (for the first time) only when you plan on letting it heat up to operating temps and test driving it..........then for the first 20 minutes go for a drive away from traffic slowdowns/jams where you can give near WOT in short bursts; get on it...then back off.....get on it...back off......repeat. Then after 20 minutes change the oil and filter. Then, keep using non-synthetic oil for the first 2k miles or so, then switch to synthetic if you want once the rings have set fully. The link states the rings are 80% seated within 20 minutes....and the harder you drive it the more they will mate with the cylinder walls forming a better seal. If you go easy on it in that first 20 minutes, the rings will become rounded off before they can scratch their pattern into the cylinder walls giving you the best possible seal. They advise against synthetic initially because its more slippery than dino oil and prevents the rings "scratching their pattern in" (creating their seal) as easily.

-m

[bentvalves]

do not be overly easy on it as the rings need combustion pressure pushing them out againts the cylinder walls to seat them well.

the reason for loading it in short bursts and quickly decelerating is to use engine vacuum to aid in sucking sh*t out of the combustion chamber after loading the rings against the cylinder walls......I believe.

[sjbsuperman1425]

seems like almost everyone agrees on one method here haha

[KEMP]

ok, sounds good, but question, when i get on it, what gear/vehicle speed should i be at, and what should i do if the car starts building boost?

and when i get on it how many thousand rpms should i raise it, and how many should a let it die back down to?

like 3rd gear and 2k then WOT to 3k, then back to 2k and so on?

and how often during th drive? like one after another, or give a few seconds between them?

im worried about how much rpm to give it, and how much throttle, and what ger, and mainly about boost, i dont know how much boost i should let it see. i planned on none, but with load, and unloading the engine, i would guess depending on rpm and throttle, that it will see some low boost?

[Fleemer]

I agree on the rings to the walls things. Its another story on bearings etc. ;P

However I don't agree on the synthetic thing. A REAL good synthetic is better then any "non snthetic" available. Unless you run 100% mineral oil, which is not you regular penzoil in a box. That crap has 132644694355 detergents in it. Penzoil synthetics aswell a other ones are really not synthetics... just normal oil with like even more detergents.

You need to look into real sythetics like motul. You' have to check what other companies have. I have always used motul normal oils and semi synth in my bike and cars (that i care about :P). Oil without crazy additives is always better then one with lots.

[mbmbmb23]

Penzoil synthetics aswell a other ones are really not synthetics... just normal oil with like even more detergents.

Not true. There are synthetic blends and full synthetics...as in %100 synthetic.

[Fleemer]

Not true. There are synthetic blends and full synthetics...as in %100 synthetic.

its been my experience that alot of north american brands that label their oil "synthetic" are not synthetic. Just conventional oils with crazy amount of detergeants. There are some that are actually 100% synthetic, like amsoil redline etc etc. But like breaking an engine in, there are also many options for oil.

Just trying to show that there are good sythetics out there and that they are far better then any conventional oil you can get. Regardless if your breaking your engine in or not ^_^

[iliketocrash]

i believe the issue is that the synthetic oil does it's job too well. thereby not letting the rings wear in, or at least that's the theory. Synthetics are generally better than any dino oil hands down. simply because they lubricate better and break down slower.

[Fleemer]

i believe the issue is that the synthetic oil does it's job too well. thereby not letting the rings wear in, or at least that's the theory.

True, and was the case in the 80s when machining had crappy tolerances

Now everything is well engineers and the needs for the extra friction for breaking from the mineral oils is not necessary. Especially if your breaking it in WOT ;P

[r34 gtr]

My 1989 BMW 325i says "run in for first 1200km: drive with varying speed with no more than 2/3 maximum speed in any gear, no full-throttle or kick-down"

It has more than a quarter of a million miles on it, and it runs so well that if you saw it, you would bust a nut.

That being said, I always use the "full throttle to redline, lift, and engine brake 'er back down, then repeat" maneuver, and I had great compression for the life of the bottom end. I'm going to use this method on my CA next time as well.

[slw240sx]

i used advance auto brand 10 40, advance brand filter, idle for 10mins change oil. idle for 20 mins to bleed coolant. open shop door, drive out to the intersection and to multiple smokey donuts, hotlaps around the block banging it to 7.5K before shifting. pull car back into shop cool down change oil again with advance brand changing filter everytime. i still have only used advance brand oil and filters in my car. actually now i use GTX and a purolator filter cause its whats on sale.

my diff broke because i put it in while the car was down and that break in procedure did not work to well for the diff, the motor is fine and gets ran hard as it can be. 6 drift events already this year and its still going strong, 2 more next week and i have to change oil again. i think my transmission will go before this motor.

[BQ.05.TD]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

thats all u need 2 no

[float_6969]

[sjbsuperman1425]

Dee and Ryan, one of you guys should throw this in the stickies somewheres