So I've got 17 inch wheels my 300Zx TT and I have had enough of the lack of braking ability of the stock system compared to speed my engine can deliver. So for those of you who have 17 inch wheels what do you feel is the best set up to go with and from who?

You cant go bigger with 17s (not enough to make a difference). So the only thing left would be to go with an upgraded setup. Depending on how the car is driven and if you're willing to replace rotors often. You can research all of the high end brake brands and make a decision on your own but generally you get more from a high end rotor/pad combo than you do from getting bigger rotors that are cheaply made.

I have the 350Z brembo calipers and 12.75" 2pc rotors and they work great over my stock thin 26mm 1990 NA brakes.
With the old brakes, I had troubles with warping and could not activate my ABS.

Are you able to activate your ABS/lock up the wheels? What exactly are your issues? brake fade during spirited drives? lack of initial bit?

Pads are a big factor in braking.

So I don't track the car but lets say now and then spirited driving. Right now it's like pushing on the brakes it has initial bite but then like pushing harder but not slowing down any faster. I've replaced the brake booster because it wasn't holding a vacuum, new rotors, rebuilt the stock calipers, changed brake fluid, tried different pads and still not like my other daily driver. I really can't get the ABS to kick in, I've tried and pushed on the brakes hard enough so the seat is flexing. If you've ever driven with a bad brake booster it's kind of like that but I know mine is good. With the extra power and acceleration I should have better braking so I thought I would ask what everyone thought was the best option to gain better braking. Unless there is a problem with my abs but I no lights so only can assume it's good.

I believe there are some ABS diagnostics available through the ECU, check the diagnostics section of the FSM (in my sig). It sounds like you may not be getting any vacuum to the booster which in essence means you're operating with manual brakes. I've driven many Z32s and have never felt like the braking was that bad, yes the rotors are a bit undersized but all in all its never been a big issue so I think you have something else going on. All that said your best bet for good all around braking performance will be slotted rotors (not drilled) with good semi metallic or ceramic pads. The semimetallics are going to have a better initial bite but fade slightly and will not stand up to hard wear as well as cermaics. Supercars and race cars use carbon composition pads, these are not recommended for street duty because they require a lot of heat to be made and maintained to provide ultimate performance, they are more of an on/off switch type of pad. Do some research on brands because formulations, manufacturers (not name brands), and quality seems to be always changing s just because it says Brembo doesn't mean it'll be the best or even good enough, chances are it will so trust but verify has always been my approach.

If your booster is new, make sure the check valve to the booster is functioning also.

I agree the first step will be to re-check the newish brake booster and make sure that it can hold vacuum and that the check valve is allowing vacuum. I just purchased a brake pressure tester that will measure the hydraulic pressure at the caliper. Think I can also use it at the ABS module as well. Will have to bleed the system first but we will see what pressures I'm seeing and at least compare front to front and rear to rear.

Agreed with the above.

If you're not getting full lockup or ABS engagement something is haywire (a crappy Z32 brake system on generic pads is more than sufficient to lock up the wheels).

However, since it's a good topic, I'm gonna hop on the soapbox for a minute: In many cases, people chase pad compounds, drilled / slotted rotors, higher-temp fluid, bigger rotors, massive calipers, and spend a fortune on a bunch of blingy but irrelevant crap... yet they're bopping around on 400-treadwear granny tires. In that case, the tires are the weak link. No additional amount of clamping force or leverage is going to help if you have hard, dry, slick, cheap, non-performance tires. Period.

Anyhow, I'm stumped on your issue, but it sounds like you have an issue with the booster. I'd re-bleed each corner and check pressures.

So I did some tests. Used a vacuum pump connected it to the brake booster put 15 inhg and let it sit for 15 minutes rechecked the gauge still a 15 so I saying booster is good. Hooked a vacuum gauge to the motor to check at idle read 18 inhg some engine seems ok. Put brake line pressure gauge on the left front and with the motor running pressed hard on the brake pedal and got 1000psi. I think too low. Bleed the front at the abs and maybe saw some air bubbles. Hooked the gauge to the right front caliper and got 1400psi. Hooked it back up to the left front for a retest and got 1350 psi. I think area that with a booster I should be between 1500 -2000psi and a manual brake set up would be 800 - 1000psi. So after a little bleeding at the abs it was better unless I was supplying more force on the pedal vs first test. Probably will check the rears and bleed the abs one time. Maybe try a pressure check with the abs fuse pulled just to see. No sure if that is a warranted test or not.

Are you bleeding in the correct order? If not you could just be moving trapped air through the system. Check the FSM for the procedure.

That will be my next step but the last time I bled them I followed the FSM procedure so not sure that will do much for me but I have to check that off as done in this process.