Some time ago, I got with deviousKA about a not-so-average tuning setup for my upcoming build, involving launch control / anti-lag / flatshifting features.
Obviously, the build is progressing just fine, as I've shown in the "Engine p0rn" thread.
Well, here's the tuning end.
It's a daughterboard supplied and base tuned by deviousKA. The board is unique, in that it offers multiple file storage and onboard remote switching.
The board can store up to 4 individual files (tune maps). We put our heads together and deviousKA came up with a plan to use the files in pairs.
The first set is Base tune 1, Switch tune 1 and the second set is Base tune 2, Switch tune 2.
Both base tunes are identical. They're tuned for 370's and Z32 MAF on a T3/T04E around 8psi (I think there's room for more there...)
However, Switch tunes 1 and 2 are different from the Base tunes and from each other. Switch tune 1 has a rev limit of 4,000rpm and 5* timing retard. Switch tune 2 has a rev limit of 4,000rpm and 10* timing retard.
These tunes are applied when the remote switch circuit is complete. The switch is mounted in a position that allows it to be actuated by the clutch pedal. When the clutch pedal travels about 15mm, the switch is "clicked" and the Switch tune is activated (which tune is used is determined by the dip switches on the board). Once the clutch pedal is released and the switch circuit is interrupted, the ECU returns to the Base tune.
The purpose of the Switch tune is for launch control and flat-shifting (not letting off the throttle between gears). The timing retard helps keep the turbo spooling between gears, and is also to create boost while in the staging lane with the clutch in @ WOT. I'll need to raise the rev limiter on the switch tunes to around 5,000rpm, as 4,000rpm is just too low to make any boost. It does spool the turbo (I can hear it just fine), but not enough to make positive pressure. The boost threshold in 3rd gear is around 3700rpm, so 4,000rpm in nuetral just won't do it.
My opinion:
This setup absolutely ROCKS! The tune was nearly dead on. I'm showing just a tad bit rich under boost, but that might change with the new engine, where all my intake charge doesn't blow out the valve cover from worn out rings. Remember, I'm testing this setup on the old tired 200k mile KA-T. That way, if I blow it, who cares?
The flat-shift/launch control is excellent. I haven't fully launched the car yet, but I've played around a little and it's pretty fun. Also, shifting gears without lifting the throttle, in conjunction with the timing retard, makes for some FAST turbo spool recovery.
I'd recommend this setup to ANYONE who wants a multi-functional board, but can't really justify springing for a $1,000+ standalone. I can't verify the board's availability or the price at which it will be offered in the future, but I can tell you that it's certainly worth waiting for one. Just contact deviousKA (www.hybridka.com) and he can give you details as to the availability and price.
One thing to keep in mind, this board will require a chip burner and you cannot do on-the-fly tuning. You'll need to know how to work a set of maps, accurately determine the cell in which the ECU is operating, etc.
I'll do more testing/tuning with the launch control setup later. Once it's dialed in, I'll post results. Tomorrow I'll get some photos of the board itself up.
Been waiting a while for this...HybridKA daughterboard (deviousKA)
Re: Been waiting a while for this...HybridKA daughterboard (KATwo40)
SOUNDS AMAZING! i'm DEFINATELY interested!
Here's the switch I used for the remote function. Notice it has three prongs. This is so that it can be wired two different ways.
1. Switch button depressed = complete circuit2. Switch button depressed = interrupt circuit
I chose the latter of the two.
It was like $8.00 at the local electronics store.
I made a bracket out of a hunk of alluminum I had lying around the garage. I just cut to lenght, filed and deburred the edges and drilled holes for mounting.
I used an existing mounting point (steering column bracket) to simplify things. No need building a new complete bracket and all when there's already stuff under the dash. Not to mention this spot lined the switch up perfectly, and leaves room to swing the bracket either direction for fine tuning the switch position.
Here are some blurry pictures of the switch in both positions. When the pedal is released and the switch button is depressed, the arm is in this position.
When the pedal is depressed, the switch button is released, and the switch arm looks like this.
1. Switch button depressed = complete circuit2. Switch button depressed = interrupt circuit
I chose the latter of the two.
It was like $8.00 at the local electronics store.
I made a bracket out of a hunk of alluminum I had lying around the garage. I just cut to lenght, filed and deburred the edges and drilled holes for mounting.
I used an existing mounting point (steering column bracket) to simplify things. No need building a new complete bracket and all when there's already stuff under the dash. Not to mention this spot lined the switch up perfectly, and leaves room to swing the bracket either direction for fine tuning the switch position.
Here are some blurry pictures of the switch in both positions. When the pedal is released and the switch button is depressed, the arm is in this position.
When the pedal is depressed, the switch button is released, and the switch arm looks like this.
Re: Been waiting a while for this...HybridKA daughterboard (KATwo40)
First, this is better than a standalone, because you do not always have to d!ck with it, and it offers stock like feel and reliability (maybe...). Second, Do these come tuned, or does Devious give you the software? If you have to tune it, is it a hex tune, or do you get some nice software setup? Finally, if the software is provided, does it not do map trace?KATwo40 wrote:One thing to keep in mind, this board will require a chip burner and you cannot do on-the-fly tuning. You'll need to know how to work a set of maps, accurately determine the cell in which the ECU is operating, etc.
Oh yeah, if that is the case, is the software open-source?
EDIT: Thanks BTW, on the squirter, I have been taking pics of the build, as you requested.
So far, there have been absolutely ZERO reliability issues with this board. Granted, it's been in the car less than a week, but assessment must begin somewhere, right?
Mine came tuned with the base tune and two versions of the launch tune. I am basically beta-testing the launch tune and the launch control setup. Once it's all dialed in, I'll send the final results/tunes to deviousKA for his review.
I don't know if he'll offer the boards pre-tuned. Ultimately, it'll be his decision. I'd say he probably will, but I'm not at liberty to make that decision for him.
It is a hex tune, but you can use ROMEditor to tune it. He sent me a copy of ROMEditor, along with the various tunes he supplied. ROMEditor is freeware, so don't sweat that.
There is no maptrace in ROMEditor, but you can use a consult to determine the cell in which the ECU is operating. If you're not clear on this information, visit http://eccs.hybridka.com and you'll find LOTS of tuning stuff. Also, if you're very new into tuning, you might consider attending EFI101 @ EFIUniversity. Check http://www.efi101.com for details.
You're quite welcome for the squirter. I'm glad I can finally contribute to the members of the board, which is what I'm also trying to do with threads like this, regarding helpful information. I look forward to viewing those engine pics!
Mine came tuned with the base tune and two versions of the launch tune. I am basically beta-testing the launch tune and the launch control setup. Once it's all dialed in, I'll send the final results/tunes to deviousKA for his review.
I don't know if he'll offer the boards pre-tuned. Ultimately, it'll be his decision. I'd say he probably will, but I'm not at liberty to make that decision for him.
It is a hex tune, but you can use ROMEditor to tune it. He sent me a copy of ROMEditor, along with the various tunes he supplied. ROMEditor is freeware, so don't sweat that.
There is no maptrace in ROMEditor, but you can use a consult to determine the cell in which the ECU is operating. If you're not clear on this information, visit http://eccs.hybridka.com and you'll find LOTS of tuning stuff. Also, if you're very new into tuning, you might consider attending EFI101 @ EFIUniversity. Check http://www.efi101.com for details.
You're quite welcome for the squirter. I'm glad I can finally contribute to the members of the board, which is what I'm also trying to do with threads like this, regarding helpful information. I look forward to viewing those engine pics!
Just thought I'd give a little update as to the nature of the tune I'm currently running.
Aside from being great in boost and making the transition from off-boost to on-boost (that sounds awkward...), I got to test out the freeway fuel economy yesterday.
I drove from Knoxville to Nashville and back (downtown, both cities) on less than a full tank of gas, at speeds of...uh...about 3800-4000rpm in 5th gear, the entire way. *grin*
So that's right at 400 miles round trip on just over 3/4 tank.
Not too shabby!
Aside from being great in boost and making the transition from off-boost to on-boost (that sounds awkward...), I got to test out the freeway fuel economy yesterday.
I drove from Knoxville to Nashville and back (downtown, both cities) on less than a full tank of gas, at speeds of...uh...about 3800-4000rpm in 5th gear, the entire way. *grin*
So that's right at 400 miles round trip on just over 3/4 tank.
Not too shabby!
Re: (KATwo40)
Is 10* timing retard enough for the anti-lag function to work??
Re: (Chezedik)
Basically yes raised egts, for anti-lag system to work at 100% efficiency the exhaust valves have to be completely open at the time the spark in the chamber goes off. I think i'm speaking for almost everybody when i say i would want a much milder system than what i just described, but 10* retard will not produce any results right?
KATwo40- are you saying at that specific timing the antilag will start taking effect? I know that WRC cars use 40*+ timing retard
KATwo40- are you saying at that specific timing the antilag will start taking effect? I know that WRC cars use 40*+ timing retard
Re: (KATwo40)
Neat!!KATwo40 wrote:Yes, saying that at that specific timing (5* ATDC) with an AFR around 11.0:1 makes boost of around 8-10psi (depending on the system) on the T3/T04E .63 A/R exhaust with the clutch pushed in.
Re: (Chezedik)
I have the same daughterboard and its awesome. He probably gave me a similar tune becuase I also have the 4 grand launch limiters. I am running a T25 and havent been able to test the board with the turbo becuase I got ripped off on a Z32 maf and its tuned for a Z32 maf.