Bee R

[ganma_ca]

No not BEER, Bee R rev limiter.... I want to put this one to rest, I have heard allllll kinds of stuff across the board from awesome and does what it supposed to do, to melting your valve train...... There was even some mention of it on these forums and I think Float you have one? I can't remember.... But are they legit or not? I was thinking about buying one for the 1/4 this summer to aid in building boost off the line, but if it frags my CA ********** that! So someone who actually has one and uses it please respond. I don't want to hear about your friend or your brother or your dads sisters former room mate that had it on his, I want people who are using one currently to respond, or if YOU yourself have used one in the past. I want the record set straight. I can see where it may be a potential problem for a turbo but I think that's as far as it would go. So as far as I know it's ignition cut and not fuel cut, so it produces fuel which will burn out of the exhaust, now I'm assuming in a way it's almost like backfiring in a way? So that means fuel and flame is going to be passing by a few key components..... What effect it has I'm hoping to get some feedback on from again People who had used one of these before or who are currently using one. Thanks guys!

[themadscientist]

I helped clean up the engine debris from a GT-R running a stutterbox. It was spectacular and I still have a piece of connecting rod somewhere. Saurus told the guy they wouldn't repair his uber expensive engine if he used something like that. Years later that car is still sitting in the corner of the shop with an empty engine bay and another guy is using his dog gear transmission.

Use at your own risk. I wouldn't put one on a car I couldn't afford to grenade.

[ganma_ca]

Lol thanks TMS. I have a feeling that may have been due to excessive "over"revvvving. I think if you set up the device properly for a lower(for a lower engagement point rpm) maybe you will not put a rod through the wall lmao. I could be completely wrong. I see 2 step systems all the time esp in drag racing. So what causes a rod to go? Bad caps? Bad bearings? Or sudden explosions caused by ign cut? I would be more thoughtful on the opposite, fuel cut may cause pre. det. which I could see causing the piston to melt or the piston to come down at an awkward angle then causing the rod to be subjected to a position where it causes a bearing to fail or a cap to snap. Maybe I have no idea what I'm talking about lmao But perhaps someone cares to explain to me how ign cut can explode an engine lmao! Btw I cried when I read your post TMS....... Losing an engine esp in a Skyline is a tragedy! I'm not sure if I want to blow up my ca, but there has to be a common factor aside for the Bee R that causes severe engine damage like that. Thanks for the heads up though TMS Yikes!

[ganma_ca]

I might have another theory, too much fuel running down past the o-rings into the oil oil looses lubricating qualities with fuel in it, works its way into the bearings go to launch on a seized engine a blamo!!!!! Expensive paperweight!

[themadscientist]

I have seen others run one without puking the engine. Saurus built the engine and the piece I have looks like it is a Trust rod. The guy was abusing it IMO, showing off instead of just using it right.

[float_6969]

I have something similar, but it's built into my standalone.

It's like anything else, if you mess around, and are showing off, it's usually gonna bite you in the azz.

If you tune it to do it's job, which is to build boost at a standstill, and tune it only for that, it's fine. The problem is that when you do that, you don't get the insanely loud bangs, and fire out of the exhaust. It just sounds like you've got a weak ignition system and it's missing out. This doesn't cause much harm to the engine as long as you're only doing it long enough to get boost built and then get off the line. It DOES put a lot of heat into the exhaust and exhaust valves, but if tuned right, not much more than it would see in normal use.

The problem is that a lot of ppl who buy them, do it for the "ricer effect". That's when you blow motors. IDK much about the Bee R limiter, but as long as the RPM limit and amount of ignition retard are adjustable, you should be able to set it up so it doesn't harm your engine.

Set the RPM limit for what you want your launch RPM to be (most CA's need at least 3K+ rpm to launch well and not bog). Don't go any higher in the revs than you need to. The more revs you run, the harder to keep wheel spin down, and the more likely you'll break something at launch. Then you start retarding the timing until you get the engine to build enough boost that the engine doesn't bog on launch, but not so much boost that it spins either. Also be aware that the more ignition retard you put in it, the more unstable the boost will be. If it seems like the boost gauge is all over the place (It'll normally waver some), then drop the retard back, and increase the rev limit a little.

[Boost213]

I have owned and abused one of these units on my prelude. Good little toy if you wanna be a jackass and make noise and shoot flames. Also good for loading up for the strip. When using one you run the risk of excessive heat on the exhaust side of your head. It is something that when abused you will cause harm, if you do not know how to set it up right: you will cause harm. But if setup properly and used correctly you will be fine. They're known to chip the wheels on cermic turbos. But majority are steel so no worries. What I experienced with mine was first time out blew my ignitor in my distributor. Quick replacement and good to go again. Then over time from use/abuse my rings started to go and I started to burn oil. I did wind up frying another 2 ignitor chips though. So in total 3 chips in a year and a half. If primarily used for track purposes and maybe the odd fireball and pop. You should be alright. But as clearly stated. If you're gonna abuse it, you're gonna break it.