I was in the same situation, but with 120K miles. I have a truck with an unknown service history, but checking the AT fluid, it was a deep red color, and figured it had been changed, but all most overnight the fluid turned brown (no burnt smell, and still shifted well), and I knew then it hadn't, and I had to change all the fluid (and not leave half in the trans.)
I did a
drain/fill/return line flush, changing all the fluid in one go (I'm also a big believer in keeping the additives package for oil/ATF the same, and since I wanted to move to a fluid designed for older transmissions -- Valvoline MaxLife -- that also meant changing all the fluid), did not remove the pan, but installed a Magnefine filter, which
tests by Four Wheeler and
Trailer Life show that it does reduce particulates well beyond an older design internal screen filter, and is much easier to change ongoing.
After taking an oil sample, we installed the Magnefine on the cooler return line and took the final oil samples at 2,269 miles. The initial sample was a very clean 15/12 ISO code, and we worried about seeing a noticeable change. Those very good numbers were due to the fresh oil and the SPX Filtran pan filter that was replaced at the oil change. Filtran uses MicroFelt media which delivers a better-than-average 80 microns nominal rating and would give you a small edge over the average "bargain" filters, many of which Filtran claims are 100- to 150-micron at best. Our fears about the Magnefine were unfounded. It dropped the ISO Code down to a squeaky-clean 12/9 by the end of testing.
One year and 10K mls later, fluid is a clear red color, trans shifts better than before, and I probably avoided a rebuild.
Clarification Edit: If you're going to do a simple drop and fill (changing half the fluid), then use the Nissan ATF, same as what is there now. Valvoline Maxlife would be appropriate if changing all fluid, or you had no idea what fluid was there now.