Bearing Help

[DenverQ]

Ok now im confused how the heck am I supposed to get the bearing out? Do I have to remove the whole assemble and take it to someone to have it pressed or do I need to undo that huge bolt on the back of the hub and pull it out that way. man im lost any help would be great!

[DAEDALUS]

So you've confirmed the bad bearing? I haven't done the fronts, but I think I understand the assembly based on the manual. I think the answer to your question is "yes" to both. When you say "huge bolt" I think you mean "huge nut". This nut threads onto the hub end, trapping the bearing on the hub. The nut takes a good amount of torque, so if you don't have a solid bench-mounted vise, then you'll need an impact wrench. Believe it or not, the cheap electric impact wrenches actually work pretty well, and are very useful on the road in case of a flat. Nothing beats air, of course. Other than the nut, everything is press-fit. Note that the grease seal takes up to 1.1 US tons during assembly and that the hub takes up to 3.3 US tons, per the manual. (Yeah, I think a press is needed here.) The hub and grease seal need to be pressed out first. Or hammered, according to the manul (AKA using a "suitable tool"). That one always cracks me up. Hammer to fit, file to finish. Baffle then should come right off, I think. After the hub is removed, remove the spring clip and then press out the bearing. Sockets can sometimes be used as press drifts, but ensure that the inner "points" aren't so big they damage the bearing.. Reassembly is basically the opposite of disassembly.

[Q45tech]

Infiniti has special drifts and tools for this job for the press.

Important that after you finish you check the lateral play, make sure it is less than 0.002" otherwise the hub will wooble as will the rotor and wheel/tire!

These are tough jobs for even trained techs to get perfect

[DenverQ]

Ok I think I understand now I have to take the whole steering knuckle out then have them press the bearing onto the the hub then that whole thing into the steering knuckle. Now I have to get the damn steering knuckle out. At least I found someone to press it I called the local dealership and they told me where they have all their stuff pressed so I am gonna goto them and its costing 42.50. So hopefully they get it in within spec of .002' lateral runout. I hope to have it off tonight then get it pressed tomarrow. Any tips for removing the steering knuckle?

[DAEDALUS]

I have to believe if you just took the steering knuckle assembly to the dealership they wouldn't charge you $360 (or did you mean with parts?) I don't blame you for being apprehensive with going to Pep Boys. I am no more qualified than any of their mechanics, but I care more, I am a lot cheaper and I'll own up to it if I screw up! I hope if they don't meet tolerances you will find out during reassembly. You have to disconnect all suspension members from the knuckle assembly to remove the assembly, and the calipers too. I don't think you have to remove the brake pins; just the caliper housing bolts (2). On the rear suspension, I couldn't remove the axle housing from the lower link while on the car, so I removed them both as a joined set, and then removed the nut joining the two. Just a suggestion if you run into the same problem.

[DenverQ]

No it would be 360 for them to do it like take everyhting apart like replace the bearings. I have the lower link off and the nut for the tie rod off, but i cant get them apart i cannot get the nut that attaches it to the upper link after I get it off im taking it to the same place the dealership does and havin them take it apart and repress everyhting for me then all i have to do is reassemble it. Tonight im renting a torque wrench and a spring compressor I hope to be done with the front suspension tonight

[DenverQ]

YAY!!!!

I finally got the steering knuckle off and I am taking it to the shop to get the nw bearing pressed. Also I got most of the left lower link off but the bolt that hold it to the chassis is giving me fits Im probably gonna have to cut it off. I also took apart both front shocks and replaced the insulators and the seats took about 45min not to bad.

Tomarrow I should have the new lower link in (if I can get another bolt and nut) all new rubber suspesion parts and new pads and rotors. then I can start on the rear and do the same I figure about 2 more days!! Im so excited to go for a ride and feel the smoothness (after about 4 alignments of corse!!! LOL)

[DAEDALUS]

Cutting a bolt off is often a sign you need some more tools! I have never had a bad time in a good hardware store. The rear is a bit busier than the front. 3 or 4 links, depending on if you have the HICAS system. But it'll be a lot easier this time. Disconnect the parking brake cables first--they're just ahead of the final drive. Note that 1 (or 2, non-HICAS) of the body-side link bolts are eccentric. Mark their orientations before disassembly. Remove the nuts from the bolts; not the bolts from the nuts. On reassembly, you need to final-torque the nuts with the car resting unsupported, or your bushings won't last very long. Hard to do without ramps. One other way to do it is to measure the distance of the hub from the body before you start (tank full) and you can jack up the hub to the right height for tightening. (Right, Gurus?). While you're under there you can replace the final drive fluid (1.5qts), replace the grease in the drive shaft boot, and inspect/replace the sway bar/end link bushings. BTW I've found that the strut isolators are about $3 for the fronts, but $20 for the rears. Clearly this is a mistake! But those are the ballpark prices, confirmed at 4 dealerships, including Scottsdale and Midway. Let us know how it goes. Also, I'm very curious to know what they charge you for labor for pressing all the bushings.

[DenverQ]

Ok i got the newly pressed hub-bearing-steering knuckle and it cost me 47.50 and it is withing spec of .002" lateral runout (thanks dennis) Now all i have to do is get home and put it on. Thank you all for your help!!!

Rear suspesnsion and transmission fluid tonight!

[DenverQ]

Ok so its been about 2 days since I finishged my project I went to get a alingment and they told me the left front bearing is bad!!!!!!!! I just replaced it!!!!! =( So now what do I do? buy a whole steering knuckle from the junk yard and swap that out or try to figure out what failed the bearing or was is that is was pressed wrong?

Please help

[Chally]

What makes them say it's bad?Is it noisy or has it got movement?

Get them to show you because I get every second wheel alignment place trying to refuse an alignment just to get more work, when there is Nothing Wrong. (Be careful & maybe get another opinion)

[DenverQ]

I saw and moved the wheel myself its definatly the bearing

[DAEDALUS]

I have a hard time believing the steering knuckle could be so messed up that it ruins a bearing without being visually obvious. Did you actually see the shop press it in and/or get the old parts back? When you got them to verify the .002 runout was that on the knuckle bore or the inner race? If you remove the tire and just turn the hub, what are the symptoms?

[Professor_Mike]

Have you checked the torque on the nut for the bearing? Perhaps the shop thought it was tight and a little driving loosened things up.