rioredstang wrote:Codyace, no cams are drop in. All cams should be degreed. Why does Wolf offer cam gears with multi-slots? If you want max power from cam you have to degree it.
You install them exactly as OEM on turbo cars when it comes to JWT cams. Why you ask? As they are actually machined/created/designed properly...UNLIKE BC or other copycat parts. WHy does JWT offer cam gears? BEcause when you're putting S5's or C2/C3's on NA cars and trying to go for total top end power, you use them. Otherwise, install as stock (much like Clark will tell you as well). Regardless of this, if you install them as OEM, using hte timingmarks and TDC you will always be damn good.
I"m not dismissing the 'degree wheel' in terms of perfection, don't misconstrue my point. In a situation here with a chain and that tensioner, it's sometimes 'working aginst yourself' in many cases.
Reasons why
Is the crank gear properly indexed? Has the head been shaved? Has the block been decked? Is the idler gear indexed? All of these will affect cam timing. I have ran both Wolf and BC cams with good results. Also neither cam was correct timing to drop in. They were close enough to work but not where the cam card said.
Not doubting your results, Just stating what I've found. Yes I do own an archaic degree wheel of my fathers, but it works just fine for me. With as much slack as these engines have with the hydraulic lifters and tensioners, I have found that the degree wheel has a hard time compensating. Using the chain marks and going 'striaght up' works very well.
Not trying to sound pretentious or like a jerk - obivously with a solid valvetrain or race car it's much more needed, but 99% of street cars will do best installing as they are.