BC cam install. ka24de. exaust is in the way of valve cover gasket.

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soberjoeS13
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i did some searching and cant find anyone whos run into this problem.

I got my brian crower stage 2 cams and stainless valves. Installed and all the timing taken care of. now when i went to put the valve cover gasket on behind the last collar on the exaust cam the cam doesnt end there (underneith the last collar like on the intake side) instead the cam goes about 1/2" past that collar. Thus preventing me from puting the half circle of the gasket down into the top of this head...Someone has had to have run into problems with this before, how can i fix this? Thanks


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480sx
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You either have the wrong cam or, more likely, you dont have that cam installed correctly. Im not sure how you would mess it up but still.

Both the cams are the same length right?

soberjoeS13
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no the the back of the exaust is about a half inch longer. past the rear collar. the back of the cam just gets in the way of the gasket thats all

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youngun21a
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Wow,I was about to buy brian crower stage 2 cams and stainless valves,and the dual valve spring +seat + retainer kit. and know i'm going to have to wait and see if your problem get's fix or some error,before I buy them. keep us posted

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480sx
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Then they sent you the wrong cam. So basically what your saying is that the exhaust camshaft is longer than the intake camshaft.. Or else that wouldnt be happening. Call B/C and tell them whats up.

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wishihadas14
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Had this same exact problem. It's not the wrong cam, either. It's like this: the KA24DE came in FWD and RWD models and so BC made their cams interchangeable between the two. On a FWD the distributor runs off the extra shank you're describing on the cam, but on the RWD it is not needed and in the way. So grind the ***** off. Thats what I was told by BC, and it makes perfect sense to me. It seemed like BS to me at first but they only have one part number for KA24DE cams, which means that's just how it is. I was not happy about grinding on my cam but be careful not to **** up the journals/lobes and it'll be fine. No issues on mine, but I haven't fired it up yet.

Project93sx
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what is the minimum setup you need to have for the stage 2 cams? Do I need to change anything? Is this for turbo or na?

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wishihadas14
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Plug and play, no need for better valvetrain components unless you do the stage 3's. Good for turbo, but I've heard of people useing them to break in a motor before going turbo (what I'm doing now).

Florida240sx
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Yup had to cut mine off as well. They did have a write-up on how to cut it on thir website. Just simply hacking off the end... Make sure you cut the correct end.

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1sikS13
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Florida240sx wrote:Yup had to cut mine off as well. They did have a write-up on how to cut it on thir website. Just simply hacking off the end... Make sure you cut the correct end.
imho they should cut or give you the right cam, that way your not at fault for any error

codyace
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If any of you are interested in real cams, that drop in your KA's, that make awesome power, that are degreed from the get go, and don't need cam gears to work right...

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com

They have an 'S1' cam for the KA that rocks

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StonedRhyder
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Florida240sx wrote:Yup had to cut mine off as well. They did have a write-up on how to cut it on thir website. Just simply hacking off the end... Make sure you cut the correct end.


did you have to get adjustable sporkets??? i timmined everything correctly, dizzy timed....4 teeth both ways and 180* off TDC. pull the plugs any only #4 spark plug has gas..... cant get mine to start. It turns and turns but no start up....

rioredstang
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Did you read the instructions? The exhaust cam goes on the intake side and intake cam on exhaust side of the RWD engine. I have the stage 3 cams and it plainly stated on the instructions. If you have installed them backwards you may have bent some valves.

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StonedRhyder
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rioredstang wrote:Did you read the instructions? The exhaust cam goes on the intake side and intake cam on exhaust side of the RWD engine. I have the stage 3 cams and it plainly stated on the instructions. If you have installed them backwards you may have bent some valves.

?No, I shaved the extra off and also swapped them over. I followed the instrustion to a tea. Does it change the firing order at all? I checked to make sure I had fuel preasure. Also, I pulled all 4 plugs and only saw/smelled gas on the #4 spark plug.

rioredstang
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No, the firing order is the same. With the valve cover off, the intake lobe should be at 11:00, the exhaust lobe should be at 2:00. Now the dist. cap off, the rotor button should point to #1 on the cap.

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StonedRhyder
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rioredstang wrote:No, the firing order is the same. With the valve cover off, the intake lobe should be at 11:00, the exhaust lobe should be at 2:00. Now the dist. cap off, the rotor button should point to #1 on the cap.

I am sure that is the way I have them, I will check sunday when I work on it again. If they wernt put in those positions, would I be able to turn the engine over by hand with out anything touching? I was able to turn the engine over before putting the valve cover back on, did it many times to make sure nothing hit. I thought about #4 being flooded also, the gas in 6 months old. Wouldnt think that would go bad that fast. Seafoam also this weekend.

codyace
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codyace wrote:If any of you are interested in real cams, that drop in your KA's, that make awesome power, that are degreed from the get go, and don't need cam gears to work right...

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com

They have an 'S1' cam for the KA that rocks

All these years later, when will guys catch on. BC sucks.

rioredstang
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Codyace, no cams are drop in. All cams should be degreed. Why does Wolf offer cam gears with multi-slots? If you want max power from cam you have to degree it.

Reasons why
Is the crank gear properly indexed? Has the head been shaved? Has the block been decked? Is the idler gear indexed? All of these will affect cam timing. I have ran both Wolf and BC cams with good results. Also neither cam was correct timing to drop in. They were close enough to work but not where the cam card said.

liquid_cool
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it stated in the BC cam install direction on there website and on the information sent with the cams..thay YOU must trim the one cam on the back side to fit correctly..that part is made for a cam position sensor for like a front wheel drive car or sumpin....our cam sensor is in the dizzy..its a good thing you got the stage 2 "264's" our you might be in a world of hurt...couse the "272's" stage 3..you have to clearence the head allso..and thats alot of work for someone just starting to mess with cam swapps...so just take a grinder to it ..trim it down..then smooth it out with a flapper type sadning disc to make it crispy!..and your done....read carefully the cam sheet that came with your cams..if i remeber correctly...you need to swapp the intake and exauhst cams around..but double check that..good luck

codyace
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rioredstang wrote:Codyace, no cams are drop in. All cams should be degreed. Why does Wolf offer cam gears with multi-slots? If you want max power from cam you have to degree it.
You install them exactly as OEM on turbo cars when it comes to JWT cams. Why you ask? As they are actually machined/created/designed properly...UNLIKE BC or other copycat parts. WHy does JWT offer cam gears? BEcause when you're putting S5's or C2/C3's on NA cars and trying to go for total top end power, you use them. Otherwise, install as stock (much like Clark will tell you as well). Regardless of this, if you install them as OEM, using hte timingmarks and TDC you will always be damn good.

I"m not dismissing the 'degree wheel' in terms of perfection, don't misconstrue my point. In a situation here with a chain and that tensioner, it's sometimes 'working aginst yourself' in many cases.
Reasons why
Is the crank gear properly indexed? Has the head been shaved? Has the block been decked? Is the idler gear indexed? All of these will affect cam timing. I have ran both Wolf and BC cams with good results. Also neither cam was correct timing to drop in. They were close enough to work but not where the cam card said.
Not doubting your results, Just stating what I've found. Yes I do own an archaic degree wheel of my fathers, but it works just fine for me. With as much slack as these engines have with the hydraulic lifters and tensioners, I have found that the degree wheel has a hard time compensating. Using the chain marks and going 'striaght up' works very well.

Not trying to sound pretentious or like a jerk - obivously with a solid valvetrain or race car it's much more needed, but 99% of street cars will do best installing as they are.


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