Battery Tray removal.

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leesredgt
Posts: 3945
Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 11:18 am
Car: 1992 Toyota MR2 N/A
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo

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I was wondering if anybody has done this?If so how did you get it off? I know its spot welded to the car,so i don't want to damage the metal underneath trying to pry up on it or something.Im going to be moving the battery to the trunk so i will have no use for it any more,and i want to make the engine bay as clean as possible.If anybody has done it,if you got pics please post them up, i would appreciate it.Thanks in advance.


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ReaperBJJ
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 6:12 pm
Car: '95 Sentra '89 240 hatch

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I've done it. what I originally did was used an angle grinder and ground down on the entire top surface of the tray. Then I found all the little dimples where the spot welds are(I think it was about 6 or so) and used a dremel with a grinding attachment and ground out the dimple until you I could see the edge of the spotweld.

Lastly I just lightly pryed on the tray and it broke free from the welds and popped off.

They make spot welding bits that you can buy to skip the dremel step, but I did mine at 3am and everything was closed.

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leesredgt
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Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 11:18 am
Car: 1992 Toyota MR2 N/A
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo

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So you just ground out the middle of the tray basically right.Do you have any pics of it after the battery tray was taken off?

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Chris28
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Mine came off pretty easily. We used an angle grinder to cut off the side where it attached to the frame vertically, like the part that is attached to the vertical part of the engine bay. After that a friend of mine who is really strong just stuck a screwdriver in there and pried up, after a while it broke free cleanly.

I cut that area up for intercooler piping, so I didn't really pay attention to making it clean, but when it broke off it was a clean break.

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jeff420
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Car: too many to fathom

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i used a flathead screwdriver and a sledge hammer, diddnt have a grinder at the time. there was some metal distortion but nothing a hammer and dolly diddnt fix, no pics tho, sorry. it looks good tho. most people drill out the spot welds. would be quicker/easier than what i did.

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SirSilvia
Posts: 1983
Joined: Fri Mar 31, 2006 2:52 am
Car: Sold both my babies
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

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ReaperBJJ wrote:They make spot welding bits that you can buy to skip the dremel step, but I did mine at 3am and everything was closed.
Yeah some look like this If I remember they go for about $10-$20 they key to not breaking these bits is just to take it easy.When I take my tray out, I'm just going to grind away at the welds.

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leesredgt
Posts: 3945
Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 11:18 am
Car: 1992 Toyota MR2 N/A
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo

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I might pick one of those bits up just to make it easier if i can pry it off.Im going to be runnign intercooler pipeing through mine aswell,so it doesnt have to be perfect but i dont want to be mangled if you kow what i mean.lol

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heartofaskyline
Posts: 2103
Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 6:28 am
Car: 1992 hatch, 1993 sr20 coupe

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i removed mine with just a normal drill bit. took a punch and marked each spot weld, drilled em, and then beat the **** out of it with hammer and a prybar. im gonna make a custom one out of aluminum thats the size of a racing battery. the moron before me made that getto hole for his intercooler piping

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Coolwhip
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+1 just use a drill with a bit large enough to take out a spot weld and just drill away, done deal.


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