Battery Relocation - using audio 0 gauge cable & distribution block?

[onosqv]

Hey guys, I'm running my own remote battery kit. I have a completely sealed gel cell or what not batteries I will be putting in the trunk.

From what I've read, people have usually clamped, welded, or put a terminal block for the wiring.

Here's what I'm thinking:

Using 0 gauge wire from battery in trunk to engine bay Connect 0 gauge to distribution block input Connect starter/alternator/all the other things normally connected to it to the outputs

The gauge wiring kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1 - ebay item 5749005647 - Lanzar audio 0 gauge kit - 17' power cable, 3' ground cable.

The distribution block: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...38636 Stinger fused distribution block, 0/4 gauge in, 4/8 gauge out

I'm hoping to do this since it "seems" a little safer than just clamping the battery cables together and doesn't require any welding/torching.

The box will be an aluminum billet one that was made to hold the optima battery.

Another reason for trying to use 0 gauge is that I already have that hooked up to the secondary battery in the engine bay - since I"m moving both to the back, I can reuse that cable and just get a couple short 0 gauge for the back and just use another distribution block to connect things around the engine bay. (I haven't taken the car apart to see how all that stuff is wired tho - something I will be doing later on this month or next).

Are my gauge sizes ok? choice in block ok? Any recommendations?

[bangstanger]

Well I havent had any probs with mine...but I used 4 gauge residential cable.. Not as many strands, but thicker than 0 gauge audio. And I radioshacked a dist block. My batt is on the driver side behind my amps and changer. Its been that way for about 3 months with no probs. Sounds like it should work. Good luck.

Carl

[themadscientist]

I used zero gauge from the trunk to the engine bay and thaen claped it directly to the positive battery cable. i attached the battery groud to two of the rear bumper bolts.

[eddiec]

is a box really necessary? i was going to ditch the spare tire and put it in there w/o a box. a little genesis on its side should fit under the spare cover.

[kane2g]

Why not use welding cable instead of the overpriced stuff you listed above?

[onosqv]

Thanks for the confirmation bangstanger.

I used zero gauge from the trunk to the engine bay and thaen claped it directly to the positive battery cable. i attached the battery groud to two of the rear bumper bolts.

So in the engine bay, all the wires are clamped together also? And heatshrinked I guess? You don't need anything special to heatshrink the cables do you? Thanks.

is a box really necessary? i was going to ditch the spare tire and put it in there w/o a box. a little genesis on its side should fit under the spare cover.

I guess a box isn't "really" necessary. But since I'm relocating it to the trunk, I might as well get something that is NHRA certified (not that the rest of my car is going to be very legal anyway), but it's more piece of mind for me.

Why not use welding cable instead of the overpriced stuff you listed above?

That could be a possibility, can I also just clamp the connections or use a distribution box w/ welding cable (i.e. no welding or torching required)?

Thanks everyone.

[kane2g]

heatshrink doesn't need a lot of heat. just holding it over a lighter for few seconds will do.

I would recoment getting the lugs, its just a lot cleaner look, especially on the battery terminal side.the other end you can stick into a distribution block, but I wouldnt as I don't trust them.

[onosqv]

Thanks for the quick reply kane. Can you elaborate more on the lugs??? I don't exactly know what you are talking about .

That's good to know the heatshrink is easy to shrink - guess I'll be buying some heatshrink too then.

[eddiec]

get a cheap propane torch. fill the lug with with melted solder. insert wire and allow to chill. this is the cleanest way, imho, to connect large gauge wire.

[themadscientist]

I just crimped an eyelet on the cable I ran from the trunkmount and the former positive battery lead, used a nut and bolt to attach them and wrapped the bejezuz out of the connection with electrical tape.

[keepingthe240]

Is it cheaper to piece a battery trunk kit together or spend $50 at the local parts store? I was going to use the hold down tray from the front and no box. Does the distribution block clamp between the 16-20 foot cable and the stock "top post"? I'm not looking to do any welding of any kind!

[kane2g]

get a cheap propane torch. fill the lug with with melted solder. insert wire and allow to chill. this is the cleanest way, imho, to connect large gauge wire.

It can be done that way, although I use the flux on the cable, insert it into the lug, than feed it solder till it spills. This is a more solid connection, IMHO, as you heat up the lug and the cable at the same time, allowing the solder to get between the strands. I also use a centerpunch on the lug, just to keep it in there. Might be overkill, but thats what they thought me, and it doesn't take more than 2mins for the enitre process.

I don't trust the crimp kind battery terminals, but it could be just me. With time the cable will fray and might need tightning or replacement. The way I do it, there is no way that it will let go.

[eddiec]

kane2g - good tips. i'm not a big fan of crimping that large a wire gauge either.