its from the threads being old and people deleting the pics off of Photobucket.lonetlan wrote:Some of these threads have with no pics, or they don't work.
lol what are you talking about?dtowndrifter wrote:ugh make sure you do this **** right.....ground that cable out and no more 240 for you....keep vibration in mind..
im saying if that power cable grounds out due to vibration or rubbing somewhere in your car that/your car will and can catch fire...sjbsuperman1425 wrote:lol what are you talking about?
the battery cord, of course. Thought this was a battery reloaction topic?..sjbsuperman1425 wrote:what power cord? for the lights? they are fine
idk why i called it a "cord" lol are you refer specifically to me about your first comment or just in general? lol i got confused on that partdtowndrifter wrote:the battery cord, of course. Thought this was a battery reloaction topic?..
coming soon ,but the cold weather put my wiring on hold. you can check my build thread (page15ish) for my progress so far, but the fuses and other crap under the hood are being relocated to the glove boxleesredgt wrote:somebody needs to make a fuse box relocation thread.
no don't do that. You should use atleast 2 gauge. I'm using 0 gauge just to be safe.sjbsuperman1425 wrote:btw, i have two sets of jumper cables (8gauge). Could i just chop one set up and use that to run the battery to the back or no?
ok, i was jw. lol i'll buy an amp kit off ebay for cheap and all that other jazz later on..the lawn/garden battery worked fine for me (killed it messing with the headlights from 12-2pm and then letting it sit all night).TerminalVelocity wrote:no don't do that. You should use atleast 2 gauge. I'm using 0 gauge just to be safe.
You don't need 2 gauge, Jesus Christ, man! Talk about overkill!TerminalVelocity wrote:no don't do that. You should use atleast 2 gauge. I'm using 0 gauge just to be safe.
so i would imagine the 8 gauge from the jumper wires be enough? i thought they'd be since they help a car start lolDattebayo wrote:
You don't need 2 gauge, Jesus Christ, man! Talk about overkill!
What you need to do is match how much current you will be using on startup to the wire size! That's it! You won't use the battery for anything else, sheesh...
I would do a minimum of 4 gauge. I'm sure I have done well over a 100 battery re-locations in my profession and have had no problems with 4 gauge. 8 gauge is too small for that long of a run though. It obviously would not hurt anything to go bigger than 4 gauge.sjbsuperman1425 wrote:
so i would imagine the 8 gauge from the jumper wires be enough? i thought they'd be since they help a car start lol
Look Mr. smartypants, the resistance of a piece of wire doesn't really need to be calculated that specifically when it is only a couple of feet long.The_Pretender wrote:you do understand that the longer a wire is, the more resistance there is in that wire right? more length=more resistance, more resistance=more prone to melting. if it melts, it contacts everything around it cuasing shorts, fires, and such. id say you need 2 or 0 gauge if you are going to do this. alot of people say its alright with 4 gauge but 2 gauge is only 1.60 a ft and its better to be safe.
Trust me, I understand. As far as electrical and electronics in a vehicle, I'm up around 26,000 vehicles under my belt. At a 10 foot run, 4 awg can carry 250 amps of current at small intervals. We are only talking around a second or so for a start up crank. At a continuous load, 4 awg is rated at 90-100 amp at 10-15 feet. Like I always say though, it never hurts to go bigger.The_Pretender wrote:you do understand that the longer a wire is, the more resistance there is in that wire right? more length=more resistance, more resistance=more prone to melting. if it melts, it contacts everything around it cuasing shorts, fires, and such. id say you need 2 or 0 gauge if you are going to do this. alot of people say its alright with 4 gauge but 2 gauge is only 1.60 a ft and its better to be safe.