Battery Relocation Thread...FINAL

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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sjbsuperman1425
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We'll I'll try and help out a bit. I've noticed there are an abundance of these threads. So I will put all of the links on this thread, and hopefully one of the mods will sticky it and there will be no need to make anymore! lol so here it goes.

zerothread?id=361558http://forums.nicoc ... 9870^Coupe Relocation

zerothread?id=351312http://forums.nicoc ... Relocation

zerothread?id=282151^Hatchback

zerothread?id=281718http://forums.nicoc ... 1^Problems

zerothread?id=240574^S14 Relocation

zerothread?id=237518http://forums.nicoc ... 31711^Misc.

zerothread?id=322681http://forums.nicoc ... ^Write-Ups & Walkthroughs

Enjoy.


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S13-Chuki
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Thanks man good ****.

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lonetlan
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Some of these threads have with no pics, or they don't work.

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sjbsuperman1425
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lonetlan wrote:Some of these threads have with no pics, or they don't work.
its from the threads being old and people deleting the pics off of Photobucket.

dtowndrifter
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ugh make sure you do this **** right.....ground that cable out and no more 240 for you....keep vibration in mind..

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sjbsuperman1425
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dtowndrifter wrote:ugh make sure you do this **** right.....ground that cable out and no more 240 for you....keep vibration in mind..
lol what are you talking about?

dtowndrifter
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im
sjbsuperman1425 wrote:lol what are you talking about?
im saying if that power cable grounds out due to vibration or rubbing somewhere in your car that/your car will and can catch fire...

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leesredgt
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somebody needs to make a fuse box relocation thread.

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sjbsuperman1425
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what power cord? for the lights? they are fine

dtowndrifter
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sjbsuperman1425 wrote:what power cord? for the lights? they are fine
the battery cord, of course. Thought this was a battery reloaction topic?..

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sjbsuperman1425
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dtowndrifter wrote:the battery cord, of course. Thought this was a battery reloaction topic?..
idk why i called it a "cord" lol are you refer specifically to me about your first comment or just in general? lol i got confused on that part

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sjbsuperman1425
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btw, i have two sets of jumper cables (8gauge). Could i just chop one set up and use that to run the battery to the back or no?

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White Comet
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leesredgt wrote:somebody needs to make a fuse box relocation thread.
coming soon ,but the cold weather put my wiring on hold. you can check my build thread (page15ish) for my progress so far, but the fuses and other crap under the hood are being relocated to the glove box

TerminalVelocity
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sjbsuperman1425 wrote:btw, i have two sets of jumper cables (8gauge). Could i just chop one set up and use that to run the battery to the back or no?
no don't do that. You should use atleast 2 gauge. I'm using 0 gauge just to be safe.

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sjbsuperman1425
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TerminalVelocity wrote:no don't do that. You should use atleast 2 gauge. I'm using 0 gauge just to be safe.
ok, i was jw. lol i'll buy an amp kit off ebay for cheap and all that other jazz later on..the lawn/garden battery worked fine for me (killed it messing with the headlights from 12-2pm and then letting it sit all night).

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SirSilvia
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this is a lot of help, book marked it even. I'll be doing this soon, and move the intake where the battery is.

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Dattebayo
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TerminalVelocity wrote:no don't do that. You should use atleast 2 gauge. I'm using 0 gauge just to be safe.
You don't need 2 gauge, Jesus Christ, man! Talk about overkill!

What you need to do is match how much current you will be using on startup to the wire size! That's it! You won't use the battery for anything else, sheesh...

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sjbsuperman1425
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Dattebayo wrote:
You don't need 2 gauge, Jesus Christ, man! Talk about overkill!

What you need to do is match how much current you will be using on startup to the wire size! That's it! You won't use the battery for anything else, sheesh...
so i would imagine the 8 gauge from the jumper wires be enough? i thought they'd be since they help a car start lol

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Broadfield
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sjbsuperman1425 wrote:
so i would imagine the 8 gauge from the jumper wires be enough? i thought they'd be since they help a car start lol
I would do a minimum of 4 gauge. I'm sure I have done well over a 100 battery re-locations in my profession and have had no problems with 4 gauge. 8 gauge is too small for that long of a run though. It obviously would not hurt anything to go bigger than 4 gauge.

The_Pretender
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you do understand that the longer a wire is, the more resistance there is in that wire right? more length=more resistance, more resistance=more prone to melting. if it melts, it contacts everything around it cuasing shorts, fires, and such. id say you need 2 or 0 gauge if you are going to do this. alot of people say its alright with 4 gauge but 2 gauge is only 1.60 a ft and its better to be safe.
Modified by The_Pretender at 5:33 PM 1/6/2009

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Dattebayo
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The_Pretender wrote:you do understand that the longer a wire is, the more resistance there is in that wire right? more length=more resistance, more resistance=more prone to melting. if it melts, it contacts everything around it cuasing shorts, fires, and such. id say you need 2 or 0 gauge if you are going to do this. alot of people say its alright with 4 gauge but 2 gauge is only 1.60 a ft and its better to be safe.
Look Mr. smartypants, the resistance of a piece of wire doesn't really need to be calculated that specifically when it is only a couple of feet long.

Show me your calculations to prove it if you think I'm wrong. Go ahead.

It's size doesn't have to be right on the nose either when it only gets used to it's max capacity for a few seconds, so take a chill pill and get over it, ok?

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Broadfield
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The_Pretender wrote:you do understand that the longer a wire is, the more resistance there is in that wire right? more length=more resistance, more resistance=more prone to melting. if it melts, it contacts everything around it cuasing shorts, fires, and such. id say you need 2 or 0 gauge if you are going to do this. alot of people say its alright with 4 gauge but 2 gauge is only 1.60 a ft and its better to be safe.
Trust me, I understand. As far as electrical and electronics in a vehicle, I'm up around 26,000 vehicles under my belt. At a 10 foot run, 4 awg can carry 250 amps of current at small intervals. We are only talking around a second or so for a start up crank. At a continuous load, 4 awg is rated at 90-100 amp at 10-15 feet. Like I always say though, it never hurts to go bigger.


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