Battery Relocation

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
User avatar
DammitBobby
Posts: 1431
Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 5:41 am
Car: S13 91 KA24DET
Contact:

Post

I am in the process of preparing to go boost. Since I have a nice stereo system with a amp, I would like to relocate the battery in the trunk. I am wondering if anybody could recommend a kit for me to order. Also has anybody done the install could give me some info.

Thanks


User avatar
onosqv
Posts: 5675
Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2002 12:32 pm
Car: '92 240sx Vert
Contact:

Post

searching is your friend:

http://www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=82226

The SummitRacing.com kit is $50.

Don't blow yourself up now .

User avatar
D Money
Posts: 1000
Joined: Wed Oct 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Car: driving illegaly

Post

just get a optima battery and some zipties, use a lot of zipties or metal straps though or the battery might kill you in an accident

574-240sx
Posts: 9432
Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2002 6:27 pm
Car: Nissans, Toyotas, Subaru

Post

I'm running the summit one. I like it, I also have a optima redtop in it. It is a pain with the gas tank being in the way when you go to install it.

http://store.summitracing.com/...&y=14

User avatar
supra brit
Posts: 1785
Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2004 7:20 am
Car: '93 Supra, '94 240sx 'vert
Contact:

Post

How dangerous is this to have? Mine is relocated to the back, and it is in a box, but my hatch is stripped...

574-240sx
Posts: 9432
Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2002 6:27 pm
Car: Nissans, Toyotas, Subaru

Post

as long as its mounted with bolts and has a tie down, in a box you should be fine. I like the extra security with the optima battery too. To be legal at the drag strip you need a clearly marked disconnect battery switch on the back.
Modified by 574-240sx at 1:34 AM 10/26/2004

User avatar
fiznat
Posts: 5651
Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2002 10:15 am
Car: Grown up :(
Contact:

Post

I just installed my Taylor aluminum battery box kit the other day. The kit was VERY complete, and I think it looks really nice.

http://www.racenet.net/elec/tay-bat-relocation.php

4th one down, however I would NOT NOT NOT reccomend buying from Racenet Peformace or whatever it's called- It took them over a month to get me my kit, and thats with me calling and complaining about it every other day after 2 weeks had passed. Terrible customer service, terrible company, EXCELLENT Taylor product.

andrave
Posts: 3264
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2003 10:00 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX Coupe
Contact:

Post

I got the cable kit for like 19 dollars that comes with everything but the box, and I picked up a 10 dollar marine box from a parts store. and I mounted mine all the way over on the pass side so I still have access to the fuel pump.

User avatar
nizmo240sx_22
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 10:47 am
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx Hatchback SE

Post

I did something similar to that. My dad is an electrician/telecommunications man so I have TONS of connections and wires and misc. crap so we rigged up a lil terminal. I haven't ran the wire back to the battery yet but so far I have $6 bucks in it for the marine box.


andrave
Posts: 3264
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2003 10:00 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX Coupe
Contact:

Post

I just bought some threaded battery posts and put one into the body for the ground and ran the factory lead to that, and then I put the other in the factory positive lead, soldered a round terminal on the end of the remote battery lead, put it on the threaded part, tightened a nut over it, and wrapped it in electrical tape. works great and looks clean.

jmauld
Posts: 97
Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2003 5:16 am

Post

nizmo240sx_22 wrote:I did something similar to that. My dad is an electrician/telecommunications man so I have TONS of connections and wires and misc. crap so we rigged up a lil terminal. I haven't ran the wire back to the battery yet but so far I have $6 bucks in it for the marine box.
You might want to consider a cover for those terminals. That location is a great place to drop a tool. If one fell across those terminals, there's no telling what damage it may do.

daniel240
Posts: 1516
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 7:37 pm
Car: cars/motocross
Contact:

Post

i just went to a electrical supply warehouse and bought #2 welding cable for the battery cable and bought all the connectors i needed. i only spent like $10 for everything.

User avatar
nizmo240sx_22
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 10:47 am
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx Hatchback SE

Post

That is true and it has been considered but the risk of dropping a tool on those terminals is that same as dropping a tool on the battery in the stock location.

-Marcus

User avatar
BadMojo
Posts: 3946
Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2003 2:17 pm
Car: 2007 Mazdaspeed 3

Post

nizmo240sx_22 wrote:That is true and it has been considered but the risk of dropping a tool on those terminals is that same as dropping a tool on the battery in the stock location.
But isn't there a plastic cover over the + in the stock setup, preventing any unfortunate tool mishaps?

andrave
Posts: 3264
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2003 10:00 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX Coupe
Contact:

Post

TRUE!

User avatar
BadMojo
Posts: 3946
Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2003 2:17 pm
Car: 2007 Mazdaspeed 3

Post

andrave wrote:TRUE!
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZT! "Hey who's cooking hot dogs?"

User avatar
nizmo240sx_22
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 10:47 am
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx Hatchback SE

Post

Hmmm...that I did not know. I bought my car with cool gold plated terminals already installed. errrrrrrr for performance audio...drrr

Soulja
Posts: 62
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2003 5:30 am

Post

I used welding cable, and a marine battery box, $4 at walmart. I ran the + wire up and to the terminal on the starter solenoid with a ring terminal, and just extended the 2 wires that go to the underhood fusebox, and also ran them to the starter solenoid. It is a much cleaner setup than what you got going on there. I also ran a ground cable from the trunk to the engine compartment, to the stock ground on the intake manifold, and then a cable to the ign coil, distributor, and alternator. I did also ground the battery in the trunk. I used a marine terminal on the negative post of the battery, so I can just unscrew a big wingnut and disconnect the grounds. As of right now, I'm just running the standard battery, but I'm going to pick up an optima eventually. I actually have one in my garage, but I'm too lazy to test it and see if it will hold a charge.

I also have a full interior in the rear, I just cut the carpet and the padding around where the battery box is.

User avatar
Drift
Posts: 199
Joined: Thu Dec 26, 2002 5:34 pm

Post

Soulja ... any pics of your setup?

User avatar
nizmo240sx_22
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 10:47 am
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx Hatchback SE

Post

Soulja wrote:I used welding cable, and a marine battery box, $4 at walmart. I ran the + wire up and to the terminal on the starter solenoid with a ring terminal, and just extended the 2 wires that go to the underhood fusebox, and also ran them to the starter solenoid. It is a much cleaner setup than what you got going on there. I also ran a ground cable from the trunk to the engine compartment, to the stock ground on the intake manifold, and then a cable to the ign coil, distributor, and alternator. I did also ground the battery in the trunk. I used a marine terminal on the negative post of the battery, so I can just unscrew a big wingnut and disconnect the grounds. As of right now, I'm just running the standard battery, but I'm going to pick up an optima eventually. I actually have one in my garage, but I'm too lazy to test it and see if it will hold a charge.

I also have a full interior in the rear, I just cut the carpet and the padding around where the battery box is.
I didn't intend to end up with a "show car" look. I did it this way for practicality and I think that's just what it got me. I like it and won't end up changing it.

User avatar
DammitBobby
Posts: 1431
Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 5:41 am
Car: S13 91 KA24DET
Contact:

Post

Well I decided to use the 4 gauge wire that I was using for the Amp. Were that battery was located I used a distrebution block. 1 4guage connection to the battery and 2 connections one going to the starter and 2 other connections that were smaller going somewhere. Bought box plastic battery box from Wallmart for 8 bucks. I will take pictures tomorrow. Next week I have to weld a plug in the oil pan. BOOST I MUST HAVE BOOST!!

User avatar
fiznat
Posts: 5651
Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2002 10:15 am
Car: Grown up :(
Contact:

Post

couple pics of my setup with the Taylor box:

box in the rear:

hot wire routing:

It looks really clean and nice, I like it alot.

SHIEF
Posts: 834
Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:33 pm

Post

Hey Fiz, where you putting your kill switch at?

User avatar
fiznat
Posts: 5651
Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2002 10:15 am
Car: Grown up :(
Contact:

Post

well NHRA rules says it's gotta be on the outside of the car-- not like Im really going to be racing this car too much but if I have the switch... I was thinking MAYBE on the rear, to the right of where the hatch seals down theres this flat spot... I could put it in there and remove the handle for the switch, I think it would look badass if it was done right. I donno it'll be either there or in a secret location for security.


Return to “KA24ET / KA24DET Forum”