I hope you didn't think I was a naysayer .Kenrik wrote:For all the naysayers on what wire I used please get your fingers out of your asses and read the print on the wire carefuly... "gasoline oil and sunlight resistant"
costs 87 cents per foot at lowes
just run wire shielding for the part in the engine baynaed240sx wrote:Something tells me that engines operate at a slightly higher temperature than a sunny summer day. Im guessing that your wire will still last for awhile, but just saying be careful, and watch for signs of it corroding.
I have never flipped the breaker in my car. I didn't do any math to find out what breaker to use, I just took a suggestion and bought one.IWannaS15 wrote:Dean, Kenrik, did you guys ever have a problem with the big fuse/breaker? If it was sized too small, it would blow under high load conditions. Someone asked what size fuse to use, and I added up all the current drawn from the lights, heater fan, starter, etc and suggsted a fuse a bit larger. How did you guys come up with 100A or 200A?
OK. As an electrician, the wire that Kenrik ran will do just fine. If you have any worries about it just wrap it in the high temperature plastic wrapping everyone uses aroung all wires in the engine bay. Also, AWG #2 wire, like what Kenrik used, is good for 250-300 AC amps. Which in no way is higher then what your starter is pulling (in DC). #2 wire like that is made to handle HIGH heats considering the amount of amps that it can handle.Kenrik, don't worry about your wire. ALSO, I hate to say it but, the best thing to use to hook up your old wires to the new wire is to use a non-fuseable wire block. Just get one to handle your input wire and your output wires. Also, that last time I checked, you don't need a fuse inbetween the battery and the starter. If you did everything correctly, you should have no problems. And if you are gonna use one, then get atleast a 200amp'er. Just my 2 cents.naed240sx wrote:
Something tells me that engines operate at a slightly higher temperature than a sunny summer day. Im guessing that your wire will still last for awhile, but just saying be careful, and watch for signs of it corroding.
If you don't use a fuse, what happens if you get a short somewhere in the 15 feet of wire running from the front to the back? I wouldn't be surprised if that happened. I have shorted my optima before when I was installing it. Not fun. I thought I was gonna die.Masterkillalw wrote: Also, that last time I checked, you don't need a fuse inbetween the battery and the starter. If you did everything correctly, you should have no problems. And if you are gonna use one, then get atleast a 200amp'er. Just my 2 cents.
Thats why it says," IF YOU DID EVERYTHING CORRECTLY."naed240sx wrote:
If you don't use a fuse, what happens if you get a short somewhere in the 15 feet of wire running from the front to the back? I wouldn't be surprised if that happened. I have shorted my optima before when I was installing it. Not fun. I thought I was gonna die.
Masterkillalw wrote:
Thats why it says," IF YOU DID EVERYTHING CORRECTLY."
Dude, that's moronic. That's the same as not installing a roll cage in a rally car to protect the driver, because "If he did everything correctly", he would not be in a rollover wreck.Masterkillalw wrote:Thats why it says," IF YOU DID EVERYTHING CORRECTLY."
HAHA if wires didnt chaffe i would be out of work, sometimes we rip a whole plane apart takes a week to find a chaffed wire in a bundle, its like hell on earth.naed240sx wrote:
Dude, that's moronic. That's the same as not installing a roll cage in a rally car to protect the driver, because "If he did everything correctly", he would not be in a rollover wreck.
The relocation of a battery requires running 12+ feet of wire directly next to the frame of the car. Part of this run is under the carpet where it could be rubbed thin. Better safe than sorry.
I bought a Moroso Blue vented box to install my Sears Die Hard Gold in the trunk I am considering cables and battery plate to complete the job I want to know what you think of the Summit batter relocation kit, I realize it is only a 2gauge cable but I want to know how it worked and if you had any starting problems or any other electrical problems using their equipment. Their price is only $39.99 and most others prices are at least double and I want to make a decision soon so I appreciate your input thanks, Neil.karmakaze wrote:i personally ran mine under the car, from the trunk i went out through the vent on the right side and grounded to the frame, and ran the positive on the side of the frame using wire clamps.
i bought the summit racing relocation kit.
another alternative for the positive cable is cabling from a welder. (which honestly would probably work the best anyway)
