I have a 2007 Versa. There is a draw on the battery when the ignition is off. I pulled the negative lead from the battery and put my multimeter in series and confirmed the draw. I pulled , one at a time the fuses both under the hood and in the cabin but fail to stop the draw. When I let the car sit for 5 minutes with the battery disconnected and then attach the battery there is a noise coming from behind the dash that the best I can discribe sounds like a fuel pump priming. If I don't wait the five minutes and conn ct the battery, all I get is a click of something energizing. Any of you knowledgeable people out there have an idea?

If the car doesn't have a "cable" HVAC then you're probably hearing the mix and mode door servos initializing. Is the car I-Key or lollipop? If it's I-Key then it takes 30 minutes with the doors closed for the BCM to fully "hibernate", so any current reading you take before that point will be inaccurate. They generally drop to under 2 amps within 2 minutes but can maintain 100~250mA right up to hibernation. Should go down to about 12~18 milliamps after 30 minutes.

Mm,ok, so let's start with I-key vrs lollipop and we will go from there.
Thanks

Even with a lollipop key the BCM will take some time to turn itself off, although the interval may be shorter. If there actually is a hidden draw, the most likely culprit on most Nissans is the radio, especially the high-end systems. They all have battery backup lines and sometimes fail in ways that prevent shutting themselves off completely, especially if they've been traumatized by a reversed jumpstart or other EMF event.

The question that wasn't asked was what is the difference between I-key and lollipop?
There is a drain on the battery. If left for less than a week there is not enough power in it to start the car. The battery was replace by the previous owner less than a year ago for the same reason.
I will go back and hook up the meter and be more patient and see where the draw drops to.

I-Key is for a pushbutton start. Lollipop is a steel-blade key with smartwork in the plastic head.

Loilpop it is then. Thanks

Initial current draw peaks just over 4 amps when I touch the lead to the negative terminal for 4 or 5 seconds and then settles in about 110ma and remains there indefinitely. If I pull the fuse for the radio it makes no difference.

Start pulling other fuses, 110mA is way too high. Next most likely culprit is the alternator exciter circuit.

That's the problem. Except for the two big fuses under the hood, the multi-circuit units, which I can't remove, I have pulled all the fuses and can't find one that makes a difference. How do you remove the two fuses from the fuse block under the hood with breaking something.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vKnWs3 ... sp=sharing

Most of the under-hood fuses will be in the IPDM, which is next to the battery as shown in the attached drawing from the SM. It's generally upside-down under a plastic cover, and you may need to remove intake tubing to access it.

Removed each and evey fuse in the IPDM today and still can't find one to reduce the current draw. The only two remaining items are In The fuse box in front of the battery. These are combined units. One is in a green case and has three Fl40A fuses in it and is labeled IGN SW, P/WDW,OCM and ABS. The second is in a yellow case, has two fuses in it and is labeled FL60 EPS and FL30A ABS.
I can't figure out how to remove these or even the top so as to check for a voltage drop. Any ideas?
Thanks

Those combo fusible links are just blade connections underneath and pull straight out, but they can be very stubborn and there's no good way to grab them. I usually spray some WD40 or PB into the sides of the socket and wait 5 minutes, then gingerly pry them out by working the sides up a millimeter at a time with a small screwdriver. Once you have them out, you can test the individual circuits by jumping the ammeter directly across each set of pins. However, keep in mind that when you do that, it will POR the devices attached to the circuit and it may take time for them to "sleep" again. Generally the only ones that don't have "sub fuses" underneath them will be a 50A for the BCM and a couple of 30's or 40's for the ABS. As I already mentioned, the BCM won't hibernate again for a full 30 minutes. That can be the case when pulling individual fuses, too, which can make it very frustrating.

Speaking of fuses again, I presume you also checked the ones inside the car in the cabin fusebox? Things like the RKE Receiver are generally fused off those and can be responsible for draws, since they're backup-powered even when the ignition is off just like the AV and BCM.

Spent some more time on this over the past few days. There is a small draw on the interior light fuse but 50mamps on the BCM fuse. I can hear a relay click when the fuse is inserted and when the battery is left discounted for five minutes something energies behind the dash as previously noted. Not sure how to proceed. Any thoughts?

The BCM controls the "power saver" function that kills the interior lamps if they've been on for too long (usually about 20 minutes), and 50mA or so is about what they draw when the saver is active. The saver being active will also prevent the BCM from entering deep hibernation. Sounds to me like there might be a low-grade short in the interior lights that's causing the saver to be active all the time.

Hmm, check the vanity lamps in the sunvisors and make sure one of them isn't invisibly "on" all the time.

Well, no lights in the vanity mirrors. Open, close doors, play with interior light, look at glove box light, now 80mamps draw with everything shut off and doors closed. Slight voltage drop across the interior light fuse, wait 30 minutes and the draw drops to 15mamps with no drop across the fuse. Is 15 mamps too much the BMC to be in hibernation?

No, 15mA after 30 minutes is perfectly normal. That's full hibernation.