Hey guys. I've been having a problem and I'm not quite sure what's going on. I mentioned a while back that the illuminated kick plates and door handles on my car no longer light up. Some suggested perhaps there was a blown fuse or damaged wires. I haven't checked it out yet, but I suspect that may be the case, because occasionally I notice that my car will hesitate a little when I'm starting the engine; almost like the battery is dying. Well, a couple weeks ago I couldn't start my car at all after a short drive from my house to the grocery store. I got a jump and it has been starting fine for the most part with the exception of the occasional hesitation. I took it to Auto Zone twice and they checked my battery, alternator and starter and all were fine. Could there be damaged wires that are causing a battery drain?

Take a look at this thread:
howto-disable-ecm-controlled-alternator-t623786.html

Are you taking many short trips these days? The ECM intentionally disables the alternator from charging your battery during short trips. It bit me. No more dead battery since I bypassed this stock Infiniti "feature".

Interesting. Just about all of my trips are short these days. My office is a 5 minute drive from my house and the grocery store is even closer.

ibc wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 30, 2020 1:43 pm

Take a look at this thread:
howto-disable-ecm-controlled-alternator-t623786.html

Are you taking many short trips these days? The ECM intentionally disables the alternator from charging your battery during short trips. It bit me. No more dead battery since I bypassed this stock Infiniti "feature".

Had the exact same problem after I bought my '12 M56S back in March of this year. My commute to work is exactly 8.1 miles and apparently, the alternator doesn't engage until after 8 miles. After the first couple a days driving to work and straight home, the battery drain finally caused my engine not to start. I had my battery load tested outside of the car and the charging system checked with both showing no issues.

Searched here and found the above referenced thread related to not charging and I performed the procedure outlined in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9C5-OkxrJU&t=4s and never had the problem again.

I just tried getting to the harness and couldn’t. It’s in the case to the left of the battery, correct?

Big_Tone wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 31, 2020 10:59 am

I just tried getting to the harness and couldn’t. It’s in the case to the left of the battery, correct?

You'll have to remove the battery access cover then remove the frame that the battery cover sits on. Remove the right side cowl and remove the battery if you haven't done so already.

EdBwoy's video on getting to the IPDM. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoW_pp7XRiE

The IPDM is the box that sits to the left of the battery looking from the front of the car. Slide it out, remove the IPDM cover and you'll see the CAMBUS connector that has the yellow wire #76.

You will need a skinny, flat tool or a terminal removal key tool if you have one to slide into the yellow wires terminal to release the yellow wire's connector.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T6972Z4/re ... NrPXRydWU=

Wish now that I had taken photos but to the best of my memory, that's how I removed it. After removing the wire connector, I place a skinny 1-inch length of heat shrink to shield it from grounding on anything and tucked it away.

C6Joe1957 wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 31, 2020 3:33 pm

Big_Tone wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 31, 2020 10:59 am

I just tried getting to the harness and couldn’t. It’s in the case to the left of the battery, correct?

You'll have to remove the battery access cover then remove the frame that the battery cover sits on. Remove the right side cowl and remove the battery if you haven't done so already.

EdBwoy's video on getting to the IPDM. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoW_pp7XRiE

The IPDM is the box that sits to the left of the battery looking from the front of the car. Slide it out, remove the IPDM cover and you'll see the CAMBUS connector that has the yellow wire #76.

You will need a skinny, flat tool or a terminal removal key tool if you have one to slide into the yellow wires terminal to release the yellow wire's connector.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T6972Z4/re ... NrPXRydWU=

Wish now that I had taken photos but to the best of my memory, that's how I removed it. After removing the wire connector, I place a skinny 1-inch length of heat shrink to shield it from grounding on anything and tucked it away.

Got it. Thanks! I'll do this tomorrow.

Yeah. Also had battery issues until I did that 'life hack' and got a new AGM battery. Been fine since.

So, in my car the wire in the same location as what’s illustrated in the YouTube video isn’t yellow, it’s blue. And disconnecting it disables whatever it is that unlocks the steering wheel and recognizes the key. There is a yellow wire in that harness, but it’s in a different location. Is that still what I need to disconnect?

Not sure why your wire is different but here are some pics:

howto-disable-ecm-controlled-alternator ... l#p6800881

Ilya wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 02, 2020 9:21 pm

Not sure why your wire is different but here are some pics:

howto-disable-ecm-controlled-alternator ... l#p6800881

Thanks! I saw comments about a yellow wire and got really confused. I'll try this one this weekend.

So gents what's the consensus on this mod? Is it worth doing? Do you guys feel like it helped? It may be in my head, but I feel like I've seen/read mixed reviews

I had lots of issues prior to the mod and then zero issues since the mod. It took me 30 minutes to complete and didn't hurt anything. Very little risk for a big reward.

I had issues after the mod still but I think it was a crappy battery that was jussttttt strong enough to pass tests. Alarm would go off randomly, etc. After getting a nice new AGM and doing the mod, no random alarms, no issues starting, etc. So I can't say for 100% certain that the mod is critical too do but it just seems like a no brainer.

DoN_BLaZe34 wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 04, 2020 11:43 am

So gents what's the consensus on this mod? Is it worth doing? Do you guys feel like it helped? It may be in my head, but I feel like I've seen/read mixed reviews

If ever there was consensus, I would say it is "Yes, do the mod."
I have seen a lot of positive reviews, some neutral, and no negative reviews so far.
On neutral, Ilya comes to mind as some time back I saw a post about the mod not improving his symptoms.

So, for the overly cautious, I suppose it wouldn't be a bad thing to do. There are no negative reports yet, and although you lose the few benefits of an ECU-controlled alternator, most posters didn't seem to mind or care for that.

By forum reports, it seems to affect the earlier year V8s more than others.

As for me, I do not plan on doing it. I have owned & operated a few M56s and none of them have exhibited any symptoms, even when abused and kept under the oft-quoted 8 mile threshold.
If it ever affects me, I'll reconsider.

Thank you all for the responses. I will look into this.

So, I did the mod today and removed the correct wire. I'll post my experience goo/bad/indifferent. Thanks guys!

I haven't had this issue with my old M56 or so far on my Q70L. But wife's QX56 has this problem, I've really got to find out which wire it is on her ride.

You can check it in the fuse box w/ a meter.

guss what layer goind take on nissian over this probem, and guss what it cant be easly fix, do to systems not going sleep
car not made to run on a battery, and gounding points all over the car,
i put a 1000 cc amp battery in it guss what its 80% charge ,
as i know power i put 50 mf compactarot on it ones made for subwoffers
for one thing to dump power when starts and two keep the battery charge,
how ? well u see the ault puts out 14,5 volts now i charge this cap to 14,5 volts above the battery needs as systems uses power
will slowly dran cap goal is to proteck the battery, i have sign with lawyer to go forward with law sute nissian refuses fix it
what needed a 260amp ault that runs and dose real time load test on battery for 15 sec
then moves to shut down or keep chargine, the ground points should all be made come one place
wire way undersize for amout power its rated for, wich meens voltage so unstabele its nuts i meen to move from 14.5 to 14 volts is nuts,
also i found that car motor is acking same way one side to rich other to lean something wrong with power systems
and this know probem for all cars all way throw 2023,
sorry for spelling i have add,
they put in over 4000,00 in parts , and cant fix the probem i was force by x scan tool and i found some odd things with timeing
both sides timeine is so out balace it nuts but this could be do o bad ecu
the votlate its getting move over one volt eather way each sec voltaege should get is flat 12,5 and should be heavly filter throw there no filtering on power systems
where is the probem 3 dealer ships stop retuerning my calls they cant find it they given up
now any car be fix and i got wounder if this has vacuem leak on intake manfold
i seen this on other cars if them bolts arent lock down lock tite they wont stay down
if there is leake there nissian will never ever find it i have tell them check the bolts see what they truq at if to speck no prob if it not they going have take apart the motor
and how to fix this u have put steel rethreaders in block lock them in with red lock tiet then u have use gasget sealer in manfold useing blue lock tite on them
and let set for 24 hrs dam thing would never leak ever again and nothing short will work, i had dodge charger we had take it off 4 times to learn how do it right
some this is in testing phase i can tell u putting that cap on this has been keeping battery charge , i have check what voltate in in morring
there no doute there huge probem with the cars,

i forgot agm battery has diffrent charegeing specks they are 13,5 volts fully charge 13,1 discharge smart charger has be reprogram for this
and only a dealership can do it and i cant find one even knows how to do it ,
with cap i keep voltage up high enouf dosent matter