battery cutoff switch install <pix>

[Real Boring 240]

Hey guys, after the battery box install on my 240, now we installed the also required cutoff switch. It's not 100% done but pretty damn close to being so. here's a few pics of what we did. ..

a little more then 2 1/2 inch hole needed. . .

see!

plate rivoted in be careful drilling holes! measure twice, drill once. . .trust me. . .i know all too well

battery on

battery off

placement

whole mess! i'll clean it up, dont worry

closer pic

even closer!

ta-da!

let me know if you have any questions, maybe i can help. thank you! thanks 4g for your help too.

-Rafael

P.S. Anyone know what wire to splice or how to wire up an alternator cutoff as well? My switch has 4 terminals for it but i obviously didnt tap into the right wires (car still keeps running after switch is hit ) let me know! thanks
Modified by Real Boring 240 at 5:37 AM 9/19/2005

[asher4857]

very clean... looks good.. my one problem.. its outside.. why would you out it outside.. someone could just.. turn it off randomly.. or maybe even brake in through it..

[574-240sx]

Looks good. I still have to install my cutoff switch, it has been sitting on my work bench since spring.

[Adikt]

why is it outside?

[574-240sx]

You have to have a battery cut off switch if you relocated you battery for the trunk, for saftey purposes. Its in the whole drag racing rules. You can't pass tech without one when you have a rear mounted battery.

[Bruno240]

does it have to be on the outside?

i would rather have it hidden somewhere i can reach it from the drivers seat.

[574-240sx]

Its if the car flips over, start on fire, etc. saftey people can kill all power when the car is on the track. This is not a theft deterrent.

[Florida240sx]

Unless they got small hands they can't get in threw there.Not to mention they'd probably destroy the switch tryign to break in thus destroying the switch and won't have power to start your car.

[Axel Grungy]

yeah you should have made it clear that this is for drag racing purposes not theft deterrent. cuz i seriously read it and i was like omg thats the stupidest thing evarrr hahahha. but for drag racing, thats a different story altogether

[574-240sx]

yeah you should have made it clear that this is for drag racing purposes not theft deterrent. cuz i seriously read it and i was like omg thats the stupidest thing evarrr hahahha. but for drag racing, thats a different story altogether

Yeah some people didn't get it. He started a whole thread on his drag slicks recently.

[rico05]

Some of you guys are so slow LOL.

Nice. I want to see more of your car if you are doing mods like that.

[Stev0n]

they should have like a keylock for a switch or something, ya know? like locking hood pins, so no one can mess with it...

[Fenvy]

the point of it is so that someone can turn it off quickly I believe

question! are you concerned with the unit SO close to the chassis and unshielded?

[Red coupe]

they should have like a keylock for a switch or something, ya know? like locking hood pins, so no one can mess with it...

how often do people get close enough to do that when your driving your car? maby for the few seconds you are at a stop sign some one might see it and run up and switch your car off but...you seriously think that's gonna happen? you don't want to lock it man...its so the car can be shut down quickly in case of an emergency/electrical fire.

I cant belive so many people dont get this....Looking good man

[Zydeco]

alot of people aren't into drag raceing here, thats why they dont understand.

[getnrowdy23]

it did say "required" which would imply at least some sort of racing.

[xekushnr]

it did say "required" which would imply at least some sort of racing.

yes, but that would imply that most posters are actually reading the post instead of just replying.

[Real Boring 240]

Sorry for all the confusion caused i guess. You would think that with almost every performance rating out there as far as acceleration goes is done with 1/4 mile times more people would do it/know about it. Ah well, i would edit the title if i could but it says i dont have the right to do so. Yes, this is being done for drag racing purposes so i am able to run at the local tracks, not to deter theft. As far as people messing with it, i no longer drive it on a daily basis due to cops having nothing better to do around here but light up "street racer" import looking cars. Being RHD, Widebody, and the sound of an inline six out of a GT Spec muffler doesn't help very much in that department. Plus the implimentation of crazy laws like crushing your car and the fact that i have been sent to the ref 2x, and paid over 1.5k in fines.. . .well, that just means im throwing in the towel on trying to drive it on the street. with all that time, effort, and cash wasted i could be building my fun car (drag, drift, circuit, whatever) and not worry about being smog legal (which i am not by far!) oh well, sorry about the small rant i got cought up in. . .so yes, back to the topic. . .

battery in trunk for more rb25 space. . .must follow nhra rules to run at local tracks. . .must install nhra battery box. . ..must install battery cutoff switch ACCESSABLE from the outside and rear of vehicle. . ..share some pics online for others since i didnt find any when i was looking. . .confuse the hell out of people. . ..

thanks yall!

-Rafael

[Red coupe]

what kinda times you running anyways?

yes, but that would imply that most posters are actually reading the post instead of just replying.

[Real Boring 240]

I havn't, I needed to install the switch and battery box before i can. . .when i ran with the sr20 i was running a 14.0@101mph with a 2.4 60ft time!!! go figure I had cheap *** general brand tires and 195's. if all goes well i should have some track times on saturday!

-Rafael

[BaliLover]

I know a car will run without a battery just off of the power of the Alternator. So, assuming a car is still running, how does this switch cut electrical power? It looks like it just interrupts the flow to and from the battery, and not from the Alternator to the chassis harness.

[Real Boring 240]

I'm trying to find out the same answer The other two terminals are for also disrupting the alternator but i'm still researching which wire does that. . i'll keep ya'll posted

[Aries]

Very clean install

As for the people thinking that someone would just "Switch the car off". It's not likely. I've only had it happen once and that was out at a street race. The person who did it will not be switching things off like that any more.

[Ramius83]

Now, how did you wire this? Did you forget that you also have to kill the alternator so that car actually shuts off?

I am asking this because I have installed one on my car. I had to purchase a battery cut-off switch similar to yours, but I had to get one that had that alternator kill as well.

I had to run the ignition wires from the passenger side of car to the starter. Then I led a large 2 gauge wire from that starter to the large post on the cut-off switch. Then I led an 8-gauge wire from my alternator to a little post on the cut-off switch. Then of course I wired up the rest of the switch like your setup.

How did you do yours?

[Real Boring 240]

hey ramius83, the alternator switch is shown without the alternator wired up. I was trying to figure out how to make it work because right now. . .it doesnt Can you explain in VERY easy lamens terms how/what you did again? The way i figured it was i have 4 gauge from battery to switch, then 4 gauge from switch to starter. The switch has 2 terminals meant for alternator kill but i dont know which wire to interupt or am i missing something? please, let me know as i have to have this fixed by friday if i want to run! thanks

-Rafael

[onosqv]

And obviously the ppl who didn't know about it probably have never gone to an SCCA, NHRA, or other sanctioned event where a cutoff is required for remote mounted batteries... it's not just for drag racing ppl... .

Anyway, the battery is only needed for starting most of the time. The reason your car is still running, as you already know, is that the devices in your car are hooked up directly to your alternator.

Your Current Setup:

-----------------------

Here is ONE proposed solution, but there are probably far better ones.

If you want to keep the switch there, you will need to run another separate wire, isolating the alternator & the rest of your electronics.

Possible Future Setup:

To figure out which of the terminals you need to connect to, you will need to use a multimeter in the ohm testing to test for continuity.

Have it in "ON", check each terminal against the others. Then do the same for "OFF". After that, you know what connects to what, and what will be disconnected to what.

If you don't want to do that, technically, you can just run the alternator wire directly to the battery & the electronics on the other side of the cut-off switch. This will disconnect all electronics from any source of power, which in turn will turn off the car. Of course, you probably want a circuit breaker or two somewhere in these stream of lines.

Hope that helps!
Modified by brokeAs240sx at 9:34 AM 9/22/2005

[Ramius83]

Diagram 1 will not work. Because even if you cut off the power to the battery by the switch, the alternator will still be charging the ACC and the fuse block. So no go.

Diagram 2 is DEAD on. That is how I installed it. I purchased the MOROSO cut-off switch WITH alternator kill from Summit Racing. Install was simple as hell. Look at this diagram. The alternator wire is going to the kill switch. When the kill switch is hit, it will cut off the alternator and the starter/ACC wires at the same time. Works perfectly.

[onosqv]

Of course Diagram 1 will not work, that's his current setup... hahaha... should have laid out my reply better - spent too much time finding a pic of a vehicle & drawing the lines.

[Ramius83]

Of course Diagram 1 will not work, that's his current setup... hahaha... should have laid out my reply better - spent too much time finding a pic of a vehicle & drawing the lines.

Don't worry, I know what you meant. I was mainly adding to your explanation that only Diagram 2 will work. I just did a "rough" up close picture of the wiring. Your Diagram 2 is absolutely perfect. Save that sucker for other peeps when they have this question lol, because that shows exactly what to do.