Battery & Brake Lights Flash and Disappear

[bthsburgess]

So...

After about 3 months, last night I noticed my battery light and brake light would flash on and off spiratically. I was on the way home when it started, listening to obscenely loud music. So I turned it down and it went off. Today, when I was coming into work, even at lower volumes they were coming on and going off, much moreso than last night.

I think I fried my battery, or my alternator, maybe both.

Does anyone have any ideas for what I should check and what I should do?

I did do the Big 3 Upgrade, so I'm hoping that I'm not just sucking the life out of my car... but if it requires a bigger battery and alternator then I will have to do it I guess... I will note that I've had this system playing at the same levels for a long time and I would think I'd notice a problem far before the 3 month mark.

The only thing I can think of, is I recently added an underbody kit and interior light kit (leds), but I don't think they really draw enough power to start having problems like that, that the sound system wouldn't cause.

[bthsburgess]

Anger, rage, and a shakey left fist!!!

I can't figure out what's going on.

For s***s and giggles, pardon the expression, I sat in my car at lunch and turned "Disturbed" up until I could smell the drivers heating up, and no battery or brake light. After 10 minutes, the lights in the car were not dimming, the vanity mirrors did flicker a tad bit, but honestly, I wouldn't have known because the car was shaking... and still... nothing! Nothing at all! No brake light, no battery light.

What gives?! >

[rjdmmfl1]

what type of system are you running? Do you have a factory battery or dry cell high amp battery? The easy thing to do would be to take a voltmeter and test your battery ...

1. with the car in the off position,

2. with the car on egine running, no music

3. with the car on, engine running, music at your normal (or loud) listening level

If you have a factory battery, my guess is you've started to run down the battery. If it isn't holding the proper voltage at rest, or with the engine in idle, that may be your problem.

Also, it depends on what type f underbody and LED lights you got. If you got LEDs, then that shouldn't be your problem as they draw a minimal amount of power from your system. If you got neons or cold cathodes, then YES, thsoe are DEFINATELY contributing to your problem. Remember, EVERY additional thing you do to your car that requires power is gonna be a drain on your electrical system. Your system is only as strong as your weakest link, and if you have the 2.5 and a factory battery, then your 115amp alternator and the battery are by far your weakest links!

[bthsburgess]

Welp, not to worry, I got home and the engine was smoking and now the car won't start... so apparently the problem was bigger than I thought.

Going to the dealer tomorrow morning, going to have it towed in and they will figure out whats going on.

Good news? It wasn't the battery! Everything in the car is still functional, but I noticed the problem was related to the air conditioner turning on and off, and, whats better is the car won't start even with a jump from another car being attempted.

Time to rip something out and replace it, glad it's still under warranty.

[bthsburgess]

So... here's apparently what happened:

Somehow, the connection between the audio system's power cables and the positive battery terminal became loose, causing a gap and a heating issue which began to melt the wiring around the battery. This caused the light to turn on and smoke from the engine.

The Nissan dealership can't seem to figure out how it could have possibly been related to any factory defects, so the audio shop I used is going to pick up the tab.

Sucks... I'm without a car for two days due to a loose wire.

[bthsburgess]

Hilarity at the Nissan Dealership continues!

So I went this morning to inspect the damage, apparently, what had happened was the red plastic positive terminal cover on the battery had rubbed up against the power line leading out towards my distribution block and started heating up. The red battery cover melted over the fused-link for the car's power supply from the battery and interrupted current.

That was the whole issue. I just couldn't see anything because it was so dark.

We'll see what happens after they replace the distribution mechanism, I'd be interested to see if there are still alternator problems (which there shouldn't be).

The hilarity? The shop charged me 2.5 hours diagnosis for something that is BLANTANTLY obvious, at $90 an hour.