bastard child 1994 (10/93) Q45 motor swap into 1995: HELP!!

[Turbon8er]

I'm nearly done with the whole freakin swap... down to connecting the CAS (CAMSHAFT position sensor) and igniters when I realize "i have extra plugs on this motor?"

I've done tons of reading and SEARCHING over the years of owning this car and try to figure everything out without asking to be spoonfed... but i'm tired, my eyes hurt, my body and brain hurt. So please help me figure a couple quick things out and i promise to come back and make a nice pretty thread when i'm done. I've been taking pictures and will post them (later) for references. i just gotta get this ball rolling to get my car on the road asap!! please have mercy for the moment, help a brotha out.

Scenario:
1994 (167k) (10/93 build date) motor and transmission is going into my 1995 (171k) body. The transmission in my car is wayyy shot, but motor is not. Swapping the whole unit because the previous owner (1994 motor) just recently replaced All 8 new injectors, new knock sensors, All 8 coilpacks, platinum plugs, New Alternator, new water pump, new O2 sensors... then his son wrecked the car. Since my car needs knock sensors replaced anyways... why not replace the whole shebang, right? So, i did...

The motor is in and All the connectors fit fine, swapped the exhaust manifolds just fine (old studs rusted/broke), except...

Issues:
Camshaft Position Sensor- (1994 motor) Hitachi D8y92-01 has two connectors, one at the top and one being the sub-camshaft sensor exiting the bottom. This "sub" sensor is there to give signal in case the Camshaft Sensor fails (according to FSM). Ok, fair enough. However it's identical to the Cam position sensor on the 1995 motor, and the top connector is the same. The only difference being the part number has an "A" at the end (D8y92-01a).

Here's my question: Can i use the Cam Position Sensor with the "sub" plug and just not worry about connecting it? i don't feel like swapping over Crank sensors.. i reallllly dont. Doesn't seem like the extra piece would be a problem if it's just not used by my ECU


Igniters- they look the damn same, EXCEPT one stupid little two prong connector (honestly, i didn't look this one up in the FSM yet, but i will...). The main connector plugs in fine. Every single connector fit on the motor, just had these (3) "left over" lol.

Do i have to swap the igniters out?? please say no


There is also a small air/intake/vacuum related gizmo by the throttle body that is not on my original motor (need to look this up too), but no port for a harness connector. i'm not even gonna ask what this is. i just need to note it before i pass out.

like i said, i've searched n searched and my brain feels like spaghetti from all the run around and unrelated material i've had to dig through. I'll definitely polish this thread up later, i just had to get it started. i had something else to mention/ask, but i forgot right now..

Thanks in advance for any help you're willing to offer.... related links or info is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!

Nate

[Q451990]

Pictures would help us compare between the motors.

Heath

[OwnerCS]

Did either car have traction control or active suspension or were both identically featured base models?

[BCC93QT]

So where do you stand with it. Does it crank or is it ready to attempt startup? Are they NGK PLATINUM plugs? As far as the swap its fairly uncomplicated just time consuming. I am guessing the extra air/vacuum related hose is from that of a model with traction control. As I recall there is an extra air hose/plug on the intake duct on that of a model with TCS. Sounds like you swapped a motor from a base into a vehicle WITH traction control?

[Turbon8er]

First off.. i kept calling it a Crank angle sensor.. i was tired after several long nights and little sleep, but it's actually the CAMSHAFT position sensor. I'll fix the op.

Pictures would help us compare between the motors.

Heath

I went through the pics i took and honestly, you can't see the items in question. My shop is 45 minutes from where i live, and we got snowed/iced in the past two days. I'm gonna try to drive back tonight i think tho, and i'll take better pics.

Did either car have traction control or active suspension or were both identically featured base models?

they are identical base models with traction control, no active or touring options. They are even the same color, so i can fix my passenger side fender now! yayy

I think i'm just going to go ahead and swap out the CAS and igniters, in case i end up selling or swapping the other harness/ecu/motor. But here are the FSM's part description

1994 CAS with sub-cas plug



1995 CAS (with no sub-cas)

So where do you stand with it. Does it crank or is it ready to attempt startup? Are they NGK PLATINUM plugs? As far as the swap its fairly uncomplicated just time consuming. I am guessing the extra air/vacuum related hose is from that of a model with traction control. As I recall there is an extra air hose/plug on the intake duct on that of a model with TCS. Sounds like you swapped a motor from a base into a vehicle WITH traction control?

lol.. i misread this reply, but time consuming YESSSSS. I've spent every night for the past week taking my time to do it right... it makes a 240sx motor swap feel like making a pb&j sandwich. I don't look forward to doing another Q swap, but in hindsight, now i know exactly where the demons are.... like that God-forsaken A/C pump rear upper bolt. I bent the lines somewhat putting it back on, due the motor being at a further "out" position, but i think they'll be fine, nothing major.

Both cars have TCS.

The Plugs, i think he said he put in Bosch +4 (which i f*** hate... the idea of one of those electrodes breaking off in a cylinder just sends chills down my spine) SO i will probably replace those very shortly. I have a folder of receipts from the last owner (and the 2 owners before him) that came with the car. That was a biggg buying point for me, seeing the meticulous attention payed to the vehicle throughout it's life. He said the car was originally given to a upper ranked Pilot(maybe a CxO?) at American Airlines (?) (in michigan) as some big award, then one of the mechanics of the company, who had his eye on the car for years, convinced the Pilot to sell it to him. That's the gist of the story, i may be a little off, but with a mechanic owning it, i'm sure it was very well maintained.

I'm done with the swap, just plugging stuff back in at this point, about to fill it back up with $100 worth of Lucas Oil and ATF (purchasing high quality oil always makes my stomach cramp at the parts counter when they announce the total, lol).

[Q451990]

Sounds like you have it under control. The plugs on your igniter sound like some that came unplugged from the factory... I think they're for "method b" described in the FSM for setting the timing without Consult. I'd try starting the car before taking the time to swap them out. Same for the sub-CAS connector. I'd try it as you have it, and if it gives you some trouble, then switch it over.

The history of the donor car sounds very interesting. Your instincts on the Bosch +4 are exactly right... we've seen more than one hack up an electrode or two into a cylinder.

Heath

[Turbon8er]

Ok, sooo.. the car Runs!! pretty darn well. It's idling a little high, 1000-1200 rpms, but i'm thinking that could have something to do with the gizmo by the throttle body (that i have yet to look up in FSM). Below are some pics of it and my original for comparison. It also doesn't feel like it's quite 'opening up' like the old motor, maybe that has something to do with the ECU learning my "driving style" (and that's only one instance of me getting by some traffic getting onto the highway), or maybe it's the 'gizmo' stealing my power? lol

Also i have an odd, almost, vibration. I say almost because it sounds (feels) rotational. I think it's something to do with the transmission. It feels like the Millennium Falcon is preparing for hyperspace under my car between 20-35 mph. Seriously. But it's holding power fine, no slippy feeling. Idk, Hopefully it gets better with driving :/

I also noticed a pinhole exhaust leak that is right after the collector on the passenger side, where the heatshield makes it's seam. Unfortunately, it's "puffing" directly towards the trans pan, giving some unwanted heat. Luckily the weather is cool right now, and as soon as my tax return comes i've already picked out a TIG welder and plan on fabbing up a full SS exhaust system... ughh i can't wait!

... Pictures or it didn't happen

Out with the original



Trans cooler mounted on Metal end-tanked Radiator. winning. ( i know it's not on the pass side which is cooler)



Air-robbing gizmo on donor motor



Original motor (no gizmo)



Annndd... how she sits now. Thanks to my buddy hooking up the staggered G35 19" wheels. Still need to change tire sizes and lower it.



I guess i should make a thread to keep up with stuff.. maybe just edit this one and roll with it? I've got a good bit of work in mind.

and btw, THANKS guys, if nothing else you gave me the confidence to crank it up and stop doubting dumb s***. <3

[Q451990]

I've figured out what your "air robbing gizmo" is. It's on EF & EC-15 in both the 1994 and 1995 service manuals. It's the "Air Cut Valve" and apparently serves the same purpose as the fast idle cam on the main throttle body. I have no idea why it doesn't exist on your old motor, since it's shown in both manuals. The only way I could see it causing a problem, is if it's not getting coolant (I'm not sure where the hose feeding it goes and where it would hook up to your existing car) then it should be allowing additional air to flow into the intake because it thinks the engine is still cold. There's some guessing in that statement, but I think that's right.

I'm beginning to wonder if your 1995 Q is a very late one in the model run, and got some of the 1996 parts, since the 1996 manual doesn't mention that part. With it's smarter ECU it probably just held the secondary throttle open a bit electrically until the engine warmed up.

Either way if you're sucking unmetered air into the intake, you'll want to find a way to block that.

Your vibration makes me think more of a bad injector. You might not notice it at idle, since yours is high - but you'd feel it really well at low speeds under a load. Time for an ohm test.

Heath

[Turbon8er]

so this is the 3rd time i've attempted to reply over the past few days... my phone wigged out on me when the post got lengthy i guess.. hating my motorola bionic right now.. even with the stupid useless lapdock

Going back over stuff after getting much needed rest, i realized how stupid and simple the fix was. Throttle Cable Adjustment. When i set them i was worn out and overlooked the fact i tightened the rear nut instead of the front (or vice versa), but that issue is now resolved.




i agree with your presumption. According to the FSM, the Air Cut Valve should let more air bypass when cold. In that same "function" i wonder if it could impede the air flow once warm, more than my previous original setup, since that's kinda what it feels like. It's slight, but my memory says it doesn't "feel" the same. I'm gonna investigate this more later. It may have little to no effect in reality.

I think all-in-all everything is tight in the intake system. Double, triple checked hoses and clamps.

Injectors should read.... 11 ohms at rest? i cant remember. I'll dig through the FSM some more and look it up, but being that the last owner just put new ones in, i have all suspicion it's something weird in the transmission. I know brand new parts can still be bad, so i'll double check the injectors. After driving for a few days and paying closer attention, the vibration is coming on at 1600rpm, growing in 'speed' up to 1900, and harmonizes/clears at 2000 on the dot. (imagine running over a rumble strip on the side of the highway from a stand still, until you reach speed. that's the kind of vibration) It's buggin the crap outta me. If i accelerate quickly it seems to lessen in severity or be unnoticeable. I just don't want to be missing something having to do with the transmission that could lead to catastrophic failure. Lines are tight, fluid is fresh and maybe slightly over full.

[maxnix]

Injectors should read.... 11 ohms at rest? i cant remember.

12 -14 Ohms, cold.

Check hot also. Might be a couple of Ohms higher, but no more than that.