basic tuning help?

[chmercer]

Hello, ive been working on a turbo setup for my s14 and almost have it all together (I think). I dont have a wideband and id rather just pay somone to make it run right since I have no experience with fuel mapping etc.

this is my setup

iap manit3 super 60tial 38mm, top vac port connected to compressor housing, the one on the side is open. has .5 bar spring, no boost controller.12x24 ebay fmiccustom 2.5" ic pipinggreddy rs bov, not recirculated, on throttle body side of piping, vac line connected to the vac line array near intake, other 2 are plugged up. the 2nd small vac line outlet on the bov is open.sr injectorsstock fprsafc-IIiap downpipe with o2 sensor that is probably burnt out3an feed line with no regulator10an drain lineidle air line tapped into right before the tb

maf is located kindof close, like 3 inches or so away from the compressor inlet, is this a problem?

firstly, does anything sound wierd or sound like it needs to be changed? does it sound like im missing anything?

second, im going to get my downpipe welded up very soon (waiting on the flange to get here) and i want to start it asap

im wondering what kind of settings i should mess with on the safc and timing to help the car drive to a dyno without sputtering along at 1500 rpm with my hazards on the whole time.

thanks!

heres a couple pictures

[crzycav86]

neat piping.

ameen finished his kat over the weekend too.

anyway, just set the safc for -25 or so for low throttle, you don't have to do much for 7 psi, but I'd retard base timing 2-4 degrees just to be on the safe side.

maf should be fine as long as it doesn't melt, but it's better to get a little bit more piping before the compressor because the air gets turbulent and might give slightly inaccurate readings, which are probably negligible.

[chmercer]

you think i can make it run ok without a dyno tune? or are you saying to do that just to get it to a shop. any more details on setting the safc, im dumb as a brick with engines.

any info on ameens car? he sent me a pic and then logged off aim, couldnt get specs

[crzycav86]

Yeah, that's just to get it to the dyno for fine tuning, otherwise you'll have to fine tune it with a wideband.

Anyway, it'll be safe to get on it after you retard the timing. Just leave high throttle on zero(you'll be rich, but safe)... then go to the dyno.

Also, you're gonna have to play with your dec. air settings to keep your atmospheric bov from stalling you out. Just play adjust the settings until you don't stall anymore.

[crzycav86]

oh yeah. ameen has the good old ssauto manifold, sr t25, ebay fmic, etc.. You'll see it this weekend if you go.

[Iamjohnhayes]

i believe if the MAFS is closer than 10" to 12" it gives slighty inacurate readings

[Chezedik]

Not if you use some sort of temp isolation. But yes, normally speaking, that would be right. Normally, relocating the MAFS is a bad idea.

EDIT: the reason why is that if the body of the MAFS is too warm, it will affect the readings of the meter, and make you run too lean.

[KATwo40]

Ummm, your top vac port on the WG should be open. Side port connected to compressor. You have them backward.

[chmercer]

Ummm, your top vac port on the WG should be open. Side port connected to compressor. You have them backward.

ok thanks i wasnt sure on this.

[nismofly]

your car changed colors! and its kouki-ized!

sounds like a sweet setup though, have fun