ball joint/ tie rod separator. Are they any good?

[vancouverbc]

I have seen them as cheap as $16. the forks dont seem to work well with ball joints. hate to see people using sledge hammers

[jeff420]

my friend just hits the hub next to where the balljoint goes through and they just pop out. one day his balljoint went out on his civic and he changed it in the middle of the road in 15 minutes. i let him deal with mine, lol.

[fredbyte]

Where did you see them on sale for $16? And who was the manufacturer?Thanks. I'm in Bellingham.

[vancouverbc]

Where did you see them on sale for $16? And who was the manufacturer?Thanks. I'm in Bellingham.

princess auto. its their own brand. vancouver canada.

[jessetang]

I did a few balljoints with that kinda tool (I borrowed the tool set from Advance Auto Parts). At first, I used the fork and it just seemed that the ball joint would not come off. So I went to the store and borrow that tool. It came off right the way!!! The other side was driving me crazy, as the screw on the tool was all the way in but the ball joint would not come off. Then I took a break and talked to my brother a bit and heard a loud pop, and the ball joint came off...

But yeah, I love that tool for balljoint.

[carkook]

I just use the fork looking one, put a mallet at the end of it and hit the mallot. Pops out after a few tries.

[nissanman04]

The fork has worked for me, but if I wanted to re-use the ball joint I'd definitely try that tool.

[carkook]

The fork has worked for me, but if I wanted to re-use the ball joint I'd definitely try that tool.

I just got an oversized one so never makes contact with the ball joint itself, and with that tool its pretty hard to use in all situations, like trying to pop out the ball joint on the rear lower control arm.

[Ruff Ryder 6]

Go here and buy one of those. it is infinitely better than any other method. even that tool because the bottom part of it is thin enough to be put in between the boot and the knuckle, and it won't damage a thing. i used one that my friend had one day and immediately went and bought one from this guy online. if you can find one closer/cheaper look for something like that.

[nissan240running]

By what you guys have said I hope you can be my third opinion. I was told by Pepboys after an oil change that my tie rod was bad ...needed F ball joint and lower ball joint... needed inner and outer tie rod ends... blah! Oh, and whoever put the joint on before did not put a washer, just the bolt- may have caused it? he couldnt say.

So I took it to my guy, because we trust him and my dad would pay for it,... Great. He says no, the tie rod is fine for now-- he had replaced them two years ago...hmm... My break was stuck and i think that was it. I got two new front tires. (Oh- Pepboys showed me how my tire was worn on one side- bc the tie rod was allowing my tire to be tilted slightly and wearing the outter side of the tire more? something was wrong but that may have been poor alignment...)

Please Help!

[2lua]

if you use that tool. Be sure to flip the castle nut over or use a difference nut, so it will protect the threads. if not it will compress the threads. you will have a hard time to put the castle nut back on.

[jdm_master_X]

threading the nut flush with the ball joint stud and then smashing it with a mallet has never failed me.

[!Zar!]

threading the nut flush with the ball joint stud and then smashing it with a mallet has never failed me.

This is what you should do.

Most people fail to put the nut on and then destroy the threads.

Using that pickle fork destroys your balljoint.

The BEST way to remove an old/new tierod end is to

1. Spray PB-Blaster.

2. Unthread tierod nut flush with the bolt.

3. With a mallet hit the side of the spindle where the bolt goes through.

4. Place a rag over the nut.bolt and lightly tap with a mallet.

5. Go install new tierod end to manufacturers tq specs.

6. Brag to your gf/wife/bf/$5 wh0re and watch those panties drop in amazement of how easily you handled your steeze.

[jdm_master_X]

This is what you should do.

Most people fail to put the nut on and then destroy the threads.

Using that pickle fork destroys your balljoint.

The BEST way to remove an old/new tierod end is to

1. Spray PB-Blaster.

2. Unthread tierod nut flush with the bolt.

3. With a mallet hit the side of the spindle where the bolt goes through.

4. Place a rag over the nut.bolt and lightly tap with a mallet.

5. Go install new tierod end to manufacturers tq specs.

6. Brag to your gf/wife/bf/$5 wh0re and watch those panties drop in amazement of how easily you handled your steeze.

the method i was referring to is similar to pounding wheel studs out of the hub.

[94_240sx]

A hammer doesn't work well all the time. My life was much easier after I bought this. I replaced several tie rods and lower arms on mine and buddys' cars.

[!Zar!]

Using a gear puller is annoying.

It will wiggle around on occasion and it makes everything into a bigger pain than it needs to be.

I've replaced countless tie rod ends.

What I posted is the best method.

[allmtoreg]

a hammer and a big a** pry bar works all day for me. but dont actually hammer the balljoint. hit the spindle where the balljoint slips into to break it loose and a pry bar willl help loosen it up. It works for me everytime at work

[White Comet]

threading the nut flush with the ball joint stud and then smashing it with a mallet has never failed me.

thsi si what i woudl do, except i pounded mine out without putting the nut on. i really don't care about ball joints i'm throwing out though