Ball joint Grease and Rear Lower Control Arm Install Questions

[ss73]

I picked up a pair of factory Nissan rear lower control arms for my S13 a while back, I have some questions before I attempt to install them. I have searched but wasn't able to find a write-up on this.

1) From my research it seems like everybody is having a hard time taking out the ball joint nut. There doesn't seem to have enough room to get a socket in there to un-bolt the ball joint. Is there a way to remove the RLCA without taking out the axle/up-rights?

2) The factory Nissan RLCA (Part No. 55501-52F0 and 55502-52F0) I picked up from FRSPORT doesn't have grease fittings on the ball joints, does this mean they are pre-greased from the factory?, or do I need one of those grease needles to fill them up?

Any info on this topic would be a great help, when I did my FLCA, the ball joints fought me the whole way...2 broken ball joint tools and ended up smashing it out with a big a** hammer, this doesn't seem like an option since the RLCA has the axle in the way!

thanks in advance guys!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I can't remember what I did to remove them, but it very well could have involved removal of the axle.

Yes, the factory control arms are pre-greased and sealed.

[centralcoaster33]

I found this gem of a write up for you, with photos! Looks like the axle comes off. Lot's of steps, but all easy steps.
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/b15-20 ... l-arm.html

I also found this text on our site:
"Easy way to pop ball joints out of the front spindle and rear upright... shoot them up with a lot of WD or PB Blaster ahead of time...let it soak in. Loosen the ball joint nut and back it so that the top of the nut is a few threads past the top of the ball joint's threaded stud. Tap the nut straight down with a soft hammer a few times. If you're lucky, ball joint pops right out and you're home free. If you're not lucky, get a mini sledge out and whack the side of the spindle/upright by the ball joint hole. Go at it from both sides, and alternate... that will usually dislodge the taper and you can then tap the ball joint out. Worst case, rent or buy one of those industrial type pullers... the ones with the strong steel arms and pivots, not one of those cheapy chinese-made pullers that are all floppy style..." by one ton garage » Mon Feb 18, 2008 10:26 pm

[ss73]

Thanks for the replies guys,

I guess the axle is coming out, it seem like it may be the only way to get clearance to the ball joint nut...I was hoping that will not have to happen. But I did read somewhere that if i take the two RLCA to body bolts off and swing it down there might be enough room to get to the ball joint nut, I guess I will just have to try and see.

ALSO, yes i did find out that the factory ball joints came greased......in a bad way. I pushed the dust boot down and about a pea sized ball of grease came out (very dumb move on my part). The dust boot was not damaged, but i am now super paranoid, do you guys thing I should go get one of those grease needles and pump more grease back in the ball joint? Or do you guys think it should be fine?

[centralcoaster33]

Install will push on the dust boot and grease will come out, onto the knuckle and joint... I think. I personally would add more grease when installing, but just by finger, not with a needle (unless I owned one already).

[ss73]

I didn't install the control arm yet, just pushed the boot to see if there are grease in the joint. It is a factory sealed ball joint with no grease fittings, so the only way i could get grease back in the joint is to use a needle....not puncturing the boot, but trying to sneak the needle between the ball joint shaft and boot. I am wondering if i do the above it would be more damage than good (different types of grease...etc). I was just worried that i removed too much grease from the joint.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You'll be fine. Don't go messing with the boot anymore trying to get more grease in. You'll do more harm than good.