Bah! Need help to fix o2 sensor issues

[sprfst240]

Right now im running a e5 tuned ecu on my sr20 redtop and new oem redtop harness. I have a slim redtop o2 sensor and I believe it is causing this horrible flooding problem. My car idles but puts out nasty white smoke and my plugs are fouled and wet with gas when taken out after idling and light reving. I also see extra fuel in chambers. I was thinking it could be a fuel pressure issue because of my nismo fpr and 550cc injectors, but then I read that the sensors, ecu and harness are different. So my question is do i need to repin something or rewire something to get it to work or do I need to get a different o2 sensor (fat type)? Pretty clueless and would appreciate some words of wisdom from someone who may have had the same experience. So let me know your opinion and maybe we can figure this out.thanks in advance Blake

[grnsilvia]

I'm having the same problem as you. Car idles rough, when driving and I hit 3500-4000 rpm the car bucks and sputters very harshly. When ever I replace the spark pulgs the car runs fine, pulls well under boost but it only takes mayve 5 minutes and then the plugs foul up and the car becomes undrivable. I'm still trying to figure out this problem. So far I have replaced the fuel pump, unplugged the ecu to reset it, I did check the timing and found the base to be off, It was set past the furthest right tick mark on the crank pulley. I just reset the timing to the second tick mark from the right and I am about to replace the plugs with those autozone plugs (part #3924) because fouling the iridiums is getting expensive.

[otterman]

I'm having the same problem as you. Car idles rough, when driving and I hit 3500-4000 rpm the car bucks and sputters very harshly. When ever I replace the spark pulgs the car runs fine, pulls well under boost but it only takes mayve 5 minutes and then the plugs foul up and the car becomes undrivable. I'm still trying to figure out this problem. So far I have replaced the fuel pump, unplugged the ecu to reset it, I did check the timing and found the base to be off, It was set past the furthest right tick mark on the crank pulley. I just reset the timing to the second tick mark from the right and I am about to replace the plugs with those autozone plugs (part #3924) because fouling the iridiums is getting expensive.

Check your MAF. When your car starts going nuts around 3000 its usually in limp mode. Test your ECU and see if it reads 12.

[grnsilvia]

You are talking about, for example, when the maf is unplugged and the car will idle ok but when any throttle is applied it starts to run like sh*t. I know what that problem is like and I know that that isn't it. I'll still check the ECU for a 12 code.