I ran a wire from the battery to the fuel pump directly. I put a 20A fuse after the battery and then an on/off switch. The light for the switch comes on so I know there's connection BUT why won't my fuel pump kick in? Before, it was rigged up straight to the battery with a line going to the CD player to turn it on and off so I know the pump is still good. What is wrong with it?
Bad wiring?
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Hijacker
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When does the switch light up? When it's in the on position? Also, is the switch a simple 2 wire switch or does it have a third wire?
Double check with a test light or a multimeter that you are indeed getting power through your switch. Don't trust a little dummy light on it.
Make sure that you have the wire from your switch hooked up to the correct pin on the pump as well as the correct ground is grounding properly.
Once you have eliminated the switch and wiring, the last possible problem is the pump itself.
Double check with a test light or a multimeter that you are indeed getting power through your switch. Don't trust a little dummy light on it.
Make sure that you have the wire from your switch hooked up to the correct pin on the pump as well as the correct ground is grounding properly.
Once you have eliminated the switch and wiring, the last possible problem is the pump itself.
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the converted
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Re: (Hijacker)
A better question may be why did you run a wire straight from the battery to the fuel pump?
Your relay went bad and you taking the easy way huh? lol
Well check your ground and make sure it is a good ground. Also make sure you didnt blow your fuse without knowing. If you have power in and out the pump should work.
Just a word of advice, your switch will get hot if you put in the postive line and can arc due to a high amount of current. My suggestion would be to use a ground side switch for safety but its up to you.
Well check your ground and make sure it is a good ground. Also make sure you didnt blow your fuse without knowing. If you have power in and out the pump should work.
Just a word of advice, your switch will get hot if you put in the postive line and can arc due to a high amount of current. My suggestion would be to use a ground side switch for safety but its up to you.
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babyjcwwjd
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Re: (ReX2SX)
Problem solved!!! My buddy who's an elec tech looked at it and we ended up having to get a new relay anyways BUT somehow he hooked it up so that I still have to switch the fuel pump on/off and when that shuts off so does the motor...which kinda defeats the point of having a turbo timer lol. It's too damn cold here in IA to fix this krap now but this Spring I'll get into it some more and do it up right Thanks for the help guys.
OH and I did it this way b/c we wanted to bypass the relay (which ended up not happening anyways lol) so that even if people broke into my car they wouldn't be able to start it and it acts as an anti-theft technique haha
OH and I did it this way b/c we wanted to bypass the relay (which ended up not happening anyways lol) so that even if people broke into my car they wouldn't be able to start it and it acts as an anti-theft technique haha
Re: (babyjcwwjd)
1. Who called that??? Dang im good...lol j/k
2. its called a killswitch and honestly i think its the most effective anit-theft device. Many people who own hondas want to do this and i was debating on doing it with my REx.
I may do it with the 240 but like you said it would kill the purpose of having a turbo time.
2. its called a killswitch and honestly i think its the most effective anit-theft device. Many people who own hondas want to do this and i was debating on doing it with my REx.
I may do it with the 240 but like you said it would kill the purpose of having a turbo time.