When something like that shows up immediately after a repair, suspect the repair. If it isn't the new axle itself, maybe it's something else you touched in the process. Fine tooth comb all of it.

I did that today, it would have been on the driver side as it happened before I did the passenger wheel bearing.
So I pulled the CV and reinstalled to make sure it was seated correctly and retourqued all the bits I removed to get the axle in, in case I’d forgottten to tighten something. I couldn’t budge the lower bolt on the steering knuckle, so I ended up removing the other two on top, and the tie rod end to get enough movement for the CV shaft out/in. Everything was/is solid. There’s no slop or looseness in any of the tie rods, cv joints, ball joints etc.
It’s definitely speed dependant, not rpm.Which has me wondering if it’s just a balance issue. I drove it for an hour or so after the cv install last week and it definitely was not present then. Perhaps the misses hit a pothole or something after that and threw a weight. Although she swears she didn’t…
I considered alignment because I removed the tie rod, but if it was an alignment issue it would be constant wouldn’t it?

Not necessarily, but likely. When alignment causes speed related issues, it doesn't usually happen in a "speed window" like that. Balance and tires do that. Balance is the first thing to try, a lost weight sounds like a good possibility. Is it possible you got the tires swapped side-side?

Didn't swap the tires as I was only working on one side at a time. Drivers CV last week, passenger wheel bearing this week.
Had a chance to drive it a bit again today. It's ONLY during acceleration and/or uphil driving, so only under load. The second I let off the gas it stops, no matter what speed. Rechecked front end, everything seems fine. There is still a little bit of play on the drivers side where the CV enters the transfer case, but I've now been told that's normal?

Yah, the inner CV is a tripod joint and needs to slide back and forth as the axle changes angle. Some in-out play in it is normal (and necessary).

Do you have CVTz50 to take a look at your tranny and make sure it isn't juddering? Have you ever serviced it?

I don't, I ended up picking up a cheap used OBD tool that can read abs/srs instead, but I can check that on Friday when I'm back. Those elm bluetooth readers are available locally now.
I've never had the transmission "serviced" Only changed the fluid myself last year.

Was hoping to get a chance to swap the wheels front to back yesterday to see if it changed but I didn't get time.
It's strange though, the entire car feels like it's wobbling back and forth in the front end, but there's no steering wheel shake like you normally get with a balance issue. You can't really feel it in the steering wheel at all actually.

Hmm, try disconnecting the connector on the AWD coupler, and if that doesn't make a difference, try dropping the driveshaft and running it FWD. Sounds like maybe a problem in the driveshaft or the viscous coupling.

BTW, not all bluetooth/wifi dongles work right with CVTz50, it's very fussy about that. The cheapest one I know about that gives full function with no glitches is the VeePeak VP11, they're about $20 on eBay or Amazon.

Ok, thanks. To drop the driveshaft, is that the rear propeller shaft removal procedure in DLN-87?

Not sure which manual you're looking at, it's DLN-100 in the '15 FSM here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2Fdln.pdf

Nothing complicated, just make sure to paint-mark the mating flanges at both ends of the shaft (you don't want it rotated if the shaft turns out to not be the guilty party). The FSM says to drop the muffler, but IIRC that isn't necessary on a gen2, you just need to bend the heat shields a bit.

Paint marking the shaft and flange makes sure you put the
shaft back on at the same orientation it was when you took
it off, so that it's not out of balance. This is sometimes
critical, but not all the time. It all wears together, so if you
put the shaft back on 180 degrees from the way it was, it
could vibrate at 60MPH or so.

I had an out of balance shaft on my Mustang for a year. I bought
a used one in Ohio for like $35, and slapped it in, and all the
vibrations were gone. So, there was no way for me to
install it in the correct orientation because it was from
another car.

What I did do, was rotate the shaft so that the U-Joints
at the trans and diff flange side were vertical. So, when
I put the replacement in, they were facing the same way.
I lucked out, here was no more vibrations from the shaft.

Funny enough I have dealing with the same exact problem.

Wobble around 60 to 70km and extreme shaking going uphill. Unless going 120km or 80 mph. The. It's there but less.


I did put a go pro under the rear diff and saw slight vibration on the drive shaft.

But it was when I put the go pro under the hood. By passenger side. I could see the whole bottom mount shaking.
I am taking the car to mechanic tomorrow to see it its the axel or something else.

Both front axel were replaced 2 years ago.

Driver side was replaced a month ago with drive shaft as.

Will let you know what else we find.

It won't let me edit my post. But below are two videos I made. Trying to find the vibration.

The Engine side/ CV axel looks to be culprit.

https://youtu.be/GM5qHOawK5I

and Drive Shaft Vibration. https://youtu.be/Bg14Lr-mM7A

But going to Mechanic tomorrow to make sure its CV

Put the car in the air and spin the wheel by hand while holding the coil spring. You'll usually feel the bad wheel bearing right through it, pretty easily. Based on your original complaint, it sounds like you may have just changed the wrong wheel bearing in the beginning. As others mentioned, you won't find play until it's falling apart, and the whole, causing the noise by swerving left/right to load the bearings is not an accurate way to determine which one is bad. I stopped using that technique the first time it burned me. You can definitely hear a bad bearing with a stethoscope too, unless, it was impact damage where it may require there to be a load on the bearing. 95% of the time, if you can hear it while driving, you can feel it in the spring by spinning the wheel by hand.

Well it’s not the driveshaft, pulled it today, no change.
For anyone who hasn’t read the whole thread, the wheel bearings have been replaced, this is a new problem that presented shortly after replacing the drivers CV axle, so I originally suspected an issue with that.

DJ did you find the culprit? I don’t think it’s the passenger CV, there’s no shake in the steering wheel, no noise, and no play.
I’d also ruled out balance/alignment because you can’t feel it in the wheel, but it m running out of things to check. My suspect now are trans mounts.

I experienced what you're describing on a versa once and the control arm bushings were shot. Only time I've ever experienced it. I'd tighten every bolt that was touched during the other repairs if this is a new symptom since work was done.

I did that, even pulled the new CV and reinstalled it to make sure it had seated correctly.

But you know what? The first time I replaced the CV I pulled that whole side of the control arm off, and had a hard time getting it back in position to line up the bolts, and I got the bushing jammed at one point.
On the recheck I just torqued the nut, because I realized I could just remove the other two bolts and loosen the bushing bolt and rotate it enough to get the axle in.
If a bad bushing could cause those symptoms I may have damaged it on the first CV install while trying to get the control arm back in place.

It wasn’t there immediately after the CV install though, it didn’t start until about a week later.

Driver side lower rear control arm bushing is definitely separated. I'll replace that tomorrow and report back.

Well it wasn't the lower control arm bushing.

I pulled out the driveshaft and it's 80% smoother now. Driving without driveshaft currently.

Before pulling our the driveshaft I did replace both front CV but still had some vibration.

Currently. I feel slight vibration going up hill but only because I know vibration existed.

I had my mechanic order another driveshaft then we will see if problem is still there.

Tried a bluetooth dongle but it wouldn't play nice with CVTz50 like Vstar said, so I've ordered a Veepeak, hopefully that gets here by Friday so I can confirm or rule out transmission.