BAD MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR

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1BADG
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Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2012 9:16 am
Car: 2005 g35 coupe

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my check engine light just came on and a reading from auto zone showed that it is the mass air flow sensor. Also I havent changed my aif filter in such a while it is kind of dirty. Could it also cause the check engine light to come on because not enough air is going to the MAF sensor. This was the reading

aaMAF sensor circuit low input
Probable cause
aa1-Open or short circuit condition
aa-Poor electical connection
aa3-Vacuum leak
aa4-faulty MAF sensor

Any help on how to fix this will be appreciated. Those sensors are not cheap


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audtatious
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Replace the filter as it sounds like you need a new one and have the ECU reset and errors removed. If the errors return then it's not the filter and you should continue troubleshooting. Always validate wiring as well.

1BADG
Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2012 9:16 am
Car: 2005 g35 coupe

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thanks for the tip. I was wondering if this is how to reset the ECU
HAVE U DONE IT BEFORE?

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

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audtatious
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Yeah, reset can be a pain. Easy for me as my Cobb tuner allows me to do a reset and clear all errors.

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kmckis1029
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if you brave enough... id clean the MAF sensor too... (be extra careful) if you let your air filter get dirty enough to cause a CEL

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telcoman
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Car: Tesla 2022 Model Y, 2016 Q70 Bye 2012 G37S 6 MT w Nav 94444 mi bye 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6 MT @171796 mi.
Location: Central NJ

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1BADG wrote:my check engine light just came on and a reading from auto zone showed that it is the mass air flow sensor. Also I havent changed my aif filter in such a while it is kind of dirty. Could it also cause the check engine light to come on because not enough air is going to the MAF sensor. This was the reading

Those sensors are not cheap
If your air filter was dirtier than this one then that is probably why you are having a problem.

Image

Air filters are cheap and easy to change yourself. I inspect mine every few thousand miles and change mine every 10k miles.

You may want to consider letting the dealer clean the MAF. They cleaned mine on my old 06 G35 when they changed the plugs at 106k miles.

Telcoman

1BADG
Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2012 9:16 am
Car: 2005 g35 coupe

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So i replaced the air filter. Drove the car on a 200 mile trip and the light went off. The filter was pretty dirty so I guess that was causing the problem. I will remember to check it regularly now. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[email protected]
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I have a 2016 Nissan Rogue with 30,000 miles (purchased Jan 2016 from local dealer). I was accelerating on the interstate this week and at 65 mph and it felt like the engine failed. I completely lost acceleration. I had to coast off the interstate to the side of the road. A warning was displayed "chassis control system error". I turned the car off bec it was idling very rough. Tried to turn it back up, but it shut back down. Towed the car to the local dealer. The service tech said that when the sensor fails, this is how it is designed to operate to prevent further damage. Does this make sense? This was a very dangerous situation, trying to coast off the interstate. It concerns me that one of my kids could have been driving and how the situation could have turned deadly. Then I was told that this part is not covered by warranty and will cost $500 to replace.

Stevenedwardsellers6
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Car: Nissan Rogue 2016

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Have you tried changing the air in your tires? You should only use the balmy air from the great grey green greasy Limpopo River, from beneath the fever trees. But beware the fruminous bandersnatch.

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telcoman
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[email protected] wrote:
Sat Jul 08, 2017 12:40 pm
I have a 2016 Nissan Rogue with 30,000 miles (purchased Jan 2016 from local dealer).
An Infiniti dealer?

Or some shady used car dealer?
[email protected] wrote:
Sat Jul 08, 2017 12:40 pm

Then I was told that this part is not covered by warranty and will cost $500 to replace.
Who told you that?

Did you read your warranty documentation and contact Infiniti Customer Service?

Telcoman

QCtech
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[email protected] wrote:
Sat Jul 08, 2017 12:40 pm
I have a 2016 Nissan Rogue with 30,000 miles (purchased Jan 2016 from local dealer). I was accelerating on the interstate this week and at 65 mph and it felt like the engine failed. I completely lost acceleration. I had to coast off the interstate to the side of the road. A warning was displayed "chassis control system error". I turned the car off bec it was idling very rough. Tried to turn it back up, but it shut back down. Towed the car to the local dealer. The service tech said that when the sensor fails, this is how it is designed to operate to prevent further damage. Does this make sense? This was a very dangerous situation, trying to coast off the interstate. It concerns me that one of my kids could have been driving and how the situation could have turned deadly. Then I was told that this part is not covered by warranty and will cost $500 to replace.
Well this is the G35 section, not the Rogue, but what sensor is your dealer talking about? You did not provide a name of the sensor, and you might want to talk to another dealer about it and see if it is indeed covered or not, or check your warranty papers. In a car with 30k miles, all those sensors should be covered. If you give more info maybe we can point you to a cheaper source for the sensor. Regarding limp mode, yes, the car will not accelerate maybe past 20mph.


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