Bad ignitor chip - testing - what does this mean?

[240sxed]

so after looking at page FN-364 of the R33 All engines FSM. I looked up a section on the power transistor (aka ignitor chip) to try and diagnose if its what my problem is.

It says, DisconnectMeasure the resistance by inserting analog type circuit tester inspection rod - and + to power transistor terminals.

On the 7 pin terminal, it says E654321 with (E listed as 3) and apparently (terminals 5-3 listed as 1) and then the 6 termianl connetor (pins 345 listed as 2)

Then it has table below saying

1-3 + / - (infinity symbol) (omega symbol) - / + (Infinity symbol) (omega symbol)

2-3 + / - (infinity symbol) (omega symbol) > - / + 0 or not (infinity) (omega)

1-3 + / - 0 or not (infinity ) (omega) < - / + (infinity) (omga)

if NG replace power transistor (no good) ...

does anyone ****in understand that? if you have an r33 manual check fn-364

[240sxed]

anybody?

[lyon23]

on the picture E (which is 3) is shown as the separate connection, 1 is that side of the igniter and 2 is the other side of the igniter. What I get from it is you have to check both sides against the E (number 3) and not just match them up with each other. for example don't match them like this 1 to 1, 2 to 2 and so on. it would be E to 1 then E to 2 and so on on both sides.

[240sxed]

AHHHH ...so thats what they're talking about...But im still not sure what in the hell the omega infinity > and < stuff is about.

[240sxed]

Okay again i just thought about it, how can E be just that seaperate connection, or if it is. Is it the White wire ? or the Black/pink wire?

[lyon23]

Okay again i just thought about it, how can E be just that seaperate connection, or if it is. Is it the White wire ? or the Black/pink wire?

I believe when you're testing it it's not plugged in..your testing current on the unit itself. it should be stamped on the ignitor which connection is which.(123456e on one side and 123456 on the other)

[Wulfgang]

The omega is the symbol for Ohms. So set your multimeter to measure resistance (Ohms) and get to work.

You've got to test all 6 transistors. They each have 3 connections: emitter, base, collector. In the diagram, the collectors are #1, the bases are #2, and the emitters are #3. As you can see, all of the emitters are tied together (common) and go to pin E, which is grounded. Each base has its own input from the drivers in the ECU, and each collector has its own output to the coils.

Now unfortunately, the table in your engine manual is hopelessly screwed up. Looks like someone who didn't know either English or anything about the testing procedure translated that. For starters, the last row should be a test on 1-2, not 1-3 again. Duh. And then the rest of the table is out of order or just plain wrong.

Ok, so all you really need to know is that a transistor is like two back-to-back diodes, one going from the base to emitter and another from the base to collector. These diodes should conduct in the forward direction only! If you measure any resistance in the reverse direction on either diode, then the transistor is shot.

Now to the tests. There 3 connections to each transistor and thus 6 tests for each transistor. Only two tests should have finite resistance somewhere between 0 (short circuit) and infinity (open circuit). All other tests should show infinite resistance (open circuit). So I will list them here:

1. Put + probe on #2 (base) and - probe on #1 (collector). There should be some resistance, but not 0 and not infinity.

2. Keep + probe on #2 (base) and put - probe on #3 (E - emitter). There should be some resistance, but not 0 and not infinity.

3. + on #1, - on #2. Open circuit (infinite resistance).

4. + on #1, - on #3. Open circuit.

5. + on #3, - on #2. Open circuit.

6. + on #3, - on #1. Open circuit.

If you have a diode tester on your DVM, you can go one step further and do tests 1 and 2 again. The diode voltage drop should read around 0.5-0.7 V.

If any tests fail, replace the ignitor.

[240sxed]

I believe when you're testing it it's not plugged in..your testing current on the unit itself. it should be stamped on the ignitor which connection is which.(123456e on one side and 123456 on the other)

Actually on the ignitor its stamped

E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 6 PIN CONNECTOR, 11 12 13 G 14 15 16 ON THE 7 PIN CONNECTOR.

that E connection, im still not sure which pin to tap at this point. Theres 2 pins, black-pin and white. the white is hot with 12 v or about that when the ignition is on.

[Wulfgang]

If the white is around 12V with ignition on, then that is the collector side, running through the coils and then through the ignition coil relay to the battery. That would be #1 according to the diagram. Then the G is probably the grounded emitters (#3) and the E1, E2, E3... are probably the bases (#2).

[skyline084]

Yes, I just brought back a five year old thread..
I still have no idea what to check to make sure the transistor is still good..
Can somebody please sum up what the hell I have to check please

[skyline084]

Tested transistor with multi meter in ohms.
It is a j30 ignitor
The 7 pin side is marked L1, L2, L3, G, L4, L5, L6 (connects to upper harness)
The 6 pin side is marked E1, E2, E3, E4, E5, E6 (Connects to coil pack harness)

I got continuity when I tested: L1-L6 to G
but got no continuity when i tested: L1-L6 to E1-E6

does this mean the transistor is no good?

[skyline084]

seriously no body... there is not one person on the forums now who has tested an ignitor chip?
Okay and if you haven't can you please take One minute out of your day, hook up the multi meter, and check to see if you get any continuity..